last bit before valve lapping ….and waiting for parts to be ordered

thought to clean up at least some of the sand casting marks in the combustion chamber ...by no means perfect but far less pointy bits of aluminium to gather carbon and pre ignite

valves lapped
just to find the valve spring compressor and fit the parts back together

the valve stems seals are still holding the valves in place , so I guess they might last a bit longer ?

Charlie I have a valve spring compressor that goes on over the spring and them you screw it down. It is meant to be used with an air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. Air is supposed to hold the valve up while you screw the compressor down. I also have and older one if I can find it similar to the one in the picture.  I am in the process of sorting and rearranging my garage so I do know where it isn't. Let me know and I can bring them to the Lowood swap meet.
Regards Martin.

thanks martin
its here , just in a box to drag out later ...

Charlie I misread your post I thought you needed one.
Regards Martin.

finished this bit for now  ...till I pull the camshafts out of the old motor
hate valve retainer collets , and old shakey hands

thought to start on the wiring loom
some interesting challenges ahead I guess

as you would expect from something near ancient ...giggles …
the loom itself looks ok , some insulation wrapping needing attention




some interesting mods



and some typical corrosion points needing attention









lets see what develops

A man of your tallents will have that behaving its self in no time

ill give the deoxit a day or so to work

then cleaners and deoxit again

With so many little dremel knockoffs on the market. A trip to Bunnings or a reject shop can yield plenty of little match stick sizes grinders. I know they are meant for the replica dremels but a lot of the little carbide impregnated bits would be just useful between thumb and forefinger to clean up some of those little sockets joints.

good idea keith

I have a few various pc board  drills here also  which will help with the small internal type fitting sockets

after a couple of days ..the deoxit has worked quite well  so far



a clean up with flux remover and electronic cleaning solvent  and toothbrush or similar may restore - clean the surface without using some abrasive materials

followed by the deoxit when mating up , later on in the build

Charlie - you're gunna hate me for this - junk it and build a new one. The PVC sheathing in that loom is, by now, looking for somewhere really inconvenient to split on you.

oh ?
it gets better Dai

check this out

some time in its past it has suffered a headlight short condition



and to the left side switch block




and of course to the right hand side



I do have another loom here ...but from a earlier vintage , with the tank connector down the front …

will see what can be done

bit of a clean up on a modified exhaust , care of Al Pennykid

its been a bit bumped about this one , with years of crud bonded to the underside and hard to get at exposed areas

before





during



and near the end






still some deep scars of corroded stainless exist ...but cutting them back is hard work indeed … may get inspired to dig deeper yet … but don't want to go any thinner on the metal just in this spot , just under and behind the foot peg plate , fortunately the 84 footpeg plate doesn't have the additional guard section just there


may even cut the last two silencer cover plate nut retainers off as well   before a bit more polishing

Love your work Charlie👍🏻

I'm seriously impressed by the standard of work you do Charlie.

Good on ya!

But...if it's clean to start with, you are going to have to keep it clean...all the time...week in, week out...year after year after year.

Now you've done it, you are now going to have to polish the engine to match.
Regards Martin.

geez …

thanks guys ...positive comments keep this old bloke trying hard to make the best of what has been contributed from some awesome folks around the country
even some overseas help has arrived ...sometimes quite unexpectedly ..along with the odd, negotiated small parts finds ….  thanks 

you know who you are

and I feel blessed that I have friends like you all

cheers

charlie99 wrote:geez …

thanks guys ...positive comments keep this old bloke trying hard to make the best of what has been contributed from some awesome folks around the country
even some overseas help has arrived ...sometimes quite unexpectedly ..along with the odd, negotiated small parts finds ….  thanks 

you know who you are

and I feel blessed that I have friends like you all

cheers

Charlie, you keep making the rest of us look bad.  I do not think any K rolled off the grimy factory floor looking half as clean as your bike is.  Keep up the awesome work and maybe one day I will have something as nice as you are making everything!

MartinW wrote:Now you've done it, you are now going to have to polish the engine to match.
Regards Martin.

oh ? you haven't seen this yet martin ?

possibly earlier posts and pictures may have disappeared ?



but sump coming off now for a output shaft change over ( its got a bit of movement im afraid ) and the water pump issue ...now found

and of corse stainless screws to go back in on the non structural  covers and plates ...and a bit more work to come

last bit on the muffler ...for now

matt passed on to me  some very helpful stuff last weekend....with many thanks mate

as it was ...and in bits




 as it now is




now to find a clutch perch

old parts cleaning up
the Charlie treatment

even has the Sidecar Paul Tank release  Mod ….win ….now to find some tank catch internal parts

Charlie PM me about some bits I might have. Cheers Tom

so whilst I was going ...with all the bits out and ready

a second cleanup occurred ...a bit of polishing this time , rather than the satin (which I like )  bloody tragic that I am








better put one of them back on Gerty  eh ?

cheers Tom ...will do , bloomin forgot to respond

bit more playing with the motor today
finally pulled the sump and output shaft

unfortunately the sump is buggered , the face of the pump assembly is had it ...there are deep scores around the large gear (that was bound into the housing )  and it has scored the bridge between the ventricles of the two gears -pump








there s a bit of a clue to how this may have happened whilst looking at the pump end of a very worn output shaft






of corse the old antibacklash spring is bound into the rivet heads and cut-worn  a new grove in the spring at the retaining point

the rubber buffers in the buffer housing have shrunk markedly allowing lots of movement (expected )  ...and about 2mm movement in the fixing rivets










fortunately smithy has loaned me an output shaft fit for purpose , with a replaced and newer version antibacklash spring , no noticeable movement in the rivets ...but the buffer rubbers are a close fit rather than a tight fit …

may have to machine a grove into the later version sump I have here (with good pump faces ) to allow the old style bearing on the output shaft

so on we go ...

That's some serious mechanics you have going on there. Awesome job mate

thanks mate

i better look at the crank bearings etc before going further , there maybe signs of crap that has entered them ...but maybe the filter has caught it before going further fingers crossed ?  nothing would surprise me at all with this one .

gutted ...all that nice white paintwork for the red frame project ...is going brownish ....

likely the poxy clear coat that i used over it ....i should have known better than to use the septone version …

i have found a new version of clear coat from a different supplier …


compare the helmet and the fender ...were the same colour once upon a time not long ago





 ...the difference is the different clear coat ...

has affected the main fairing . rear cowl and everything else i did back then ....

i guess rub it all back to base colour and start again ........

will wait a few weeks till the temperature has settled into the 20s overnight instead of 4 and 5 c

That is... not funny. At all.

I've no idea what the grill is on the floor Charlie, but it gave me an idea (and I bet you've already got there). I replaced the mesh on the radiator guard with stainless steel. No more rusty bits.

Aw, that's a crying shame Charlie after the huge amount of effort you put into the paint job. Still, the silver lining is, with all that extra rubbing down, the end product will be even more fabulous than it was before. I hope you didn't use that pesky clear coat on any other bits that may not have been exposed to that gentle Queensland sunshine yet.

cutting back and touching up , before a fresh coat of colour , and the newer clear coat

and yes your right , gives a bit more finesse to the appearance ...ill get there  ...in time

some bits back to white again




and a bit of a mockup ,,,still not right dimensions yet ...but maybe an idea worth exploring huh ?

must finish that tank repair , to match the build







yes the tank will eventually be white

Gees Charlie I hope you also get some high density foam for the the seat or you may need heaps of Preparation H...

or learn to enjoy this   https://youtu.be/M8J8urC_8Jw   

based on the  Nutcracker "Seat" 

well along the path of making a single seat , out of a standard "hard as a plank" regular one

including replacing the rock hard core under the base layer , for something I hope to be more comfortable

foot peg plate  revisit ….better ???

getting closer to wiring a loom together
arrived yesterday  some loom tape

2 x types.  the normal tight weave tape  and another what is called a "fleece tape"






just to wait on some suitable 4mm cables of different colours for some extra wiring options  ie repurposing the ignition switch to operate a relay for ignition things

whilst cleaning stuff this week ...and with some reasonable results to footpeg plates
thought to pull out the swing arm for the red frame project , the clear coat darkening over time , now removed


bit of a clean up before attempting similar to Gerty , call it research





also did the starter motor



I guess wax maybe the way to keep it clean ???

Present for you Charlie. This is the diagram I use for commercial builds.

cool thanks Dai

all similar details to be applied in my loom

but the key switch will switch a relay back in the electrics box , so some of the wiring will be duplicated in some areas , but that's not an issue I can see causing any problems ,

but a few  more relays to go in there , to make room, the bmu will go , etc

some extra control cables from dash back there as well (aux lights , fan control , voltage indicator , usb output  and more )

a few cables to be replaced with same - similar colour with a bigger cross section ...etc

different connectors to tank and a few other locations …

the list goes on mate

The company actually mounts the sidecar electrics box in the seat well - the body design makes it easy to get at and it puts it in a weatherproof area. I use these (or similar) as the fuseboxes, simply because its an immediate failure indicator:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-with-LED-Indicator-Fuse-Block-for-Car-Boat-Marine-H8K2/323477011607?hash=item4b50bb7c97:g:YEkAAOSw1ZBbrivM

I put another 5mm setscrew in one corner to use as the common earth point. Also, the electronics box I use has a transparent lid so you can see the fuses. If you don't want to put a box in the sidecar, there's more than enough room to put relays and fusebox on a plate in the sandwich box (seat hump! ).

Also, I see that the forum software is having problems displaying the headlight high beam wire. On my original diagram I use a very light grey (slate) as a stand-in for white: it should be attached to pin 87a on the headlight relay.

got some "Ultrabond " for repairs on the fuel tanks , and a portagas type burner

initial results were very poor , as I couldn't get enough heat into the metal on the tank ,,,, it just spread the heat out away from the area
so armed with some MAPP type gas rather than butane , and lots of patience  it finally got to heat ,,,just

just enough for a good tinning process and a good flow of material to cover the small and large holes apparent

still to do a pressure type test,  but looking like it should work out ok











nearly cant see that its been done from top side

Charlie... I don't want to scare you BUT... I find with that stuff (also call Durafix) you need to get the area at least 50% hotter than flow rate and you need to apply around 50% more than you thought you'd need. Really, really double-double-double check it; if you can see the slightest hint of an edge, try levering it off because there's a large chance it will depart when you least want it to. And let me ask a stupid question: you did clean the weld area with a stainless steel brush? If you used an ordinary wire brush then there's a large chance you may have contaminated the weld because the ordinary brush will leave microscopic iron filings behind. The stainless one doesn't.

Yes, I've had what appeared to be a perfectly good weld fail on me because I didn't follow the instructions exactly... Fortunately it wasn't somewhere critical.

For anyone that's interested, here's Durafix' website: http://durafix.com/

dai   the tinning process went right to the edge ,,, later the pool overlapped the tinned section
I have jiggled it pulled at it , filed it and sanded it with an orbital sander ,,and it doesn't budge at all ...pretty hard stuff to work actually

at the moment I have the tank sorta sideways so that some vinegar is sitting where the four holes (2 x above the tank weld , more pin pricks  and 2x larger ones on the under side )   waiting to see if there are any leaks .

ill get a fuel sender seal in there and attach the sender  and double up the send and receive fuel spigots  and shunt the  breather tube , maybe make a sealing lid filler hole for the so that I can get a bit of pressure in there for a test ,,, should be able to use the breather tube as a inlet ?

might push a slight ding in the top right hand side out eh ?


thanks for the heads up mate ...appreciate it !!

You're welcome. I'd rather set off a panic now than have you find a hole miles out in the bush.

a couple of wins at the swap meet yesterday …
first a cooler ,



then some mx bars ,all pretty and anodised ....yeah right …




then the mx bars cleaned up …




should give me a wider stance , similar to rt bars with the risers on the head ...(50mm up and back )




the bars used to measure 22.25 mm now about 22.05 mm ...should fit ? or close to …

the throttle tube over the bars is smooth at least and doesnt catch

some more work today , attempting to clean off the black paint on those levers
its pretty hard stuff with no chemicals able to shift  the black stuff off (that I have found yet )
so resorted to abrasive methods as usual

looks ok






and dug out a clutch lever  for similar treatment …..still to find a perch yet ...but will be found

Charlie, I'm pretty sure those levers are powder coated.  If you can't find a perch locally, I have a couple in my spares pile.  You are welcome to one of them for the(not insubstantial) postage to Oz.

Try heat dear charlie ..try heat .. much the same as https://youtu.be/yD-ffhvefsw