BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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touchwoodsden

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Also posted on SucxkinDiesel forum
FrankenMoto BMW K 100/Smart CDI is coming along apace. (the original engine was clapped at early stage)
I really should try to slow down to avoid making cock-ups. Like this top one. Note welded cock up holes.

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Not much room on floor so the bits are now in a shed next door.

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Look† what arrived on Xmas eve.


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However mating the engine to the gearbox and lining it up has so far been very straightforward. I have a question at the end of this relating to the BMW clutch driven friction plate in relation to the gearbox input shaft.
One of these days I really will put all the photographs and words up that I have put together.
I hope to do it in some kind of order. Meanwhile, I have a couple of questions and a few photographs to ďdelightĒ or annoy anyone who doesnt like the idea of Diesel K100. Twisted Evil
Here is the start of my Smart CDI/K 100 engine/gearbox adapter conversion. Lots of work to do but Iím really pleased with the way itís all coming together.

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The question revolves around the relationship between the K 100 gearbox and the clutch driven plate.

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This is assembled with the clutch installed and you can see that there are a few splines poking out from the clutch driven plate centre?

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When I did my measuring and my calculations, (which may be flawed) it would have meant that there were no splines showing at all, but I put a couple of washers under each of the pillars and it has spaced it out a little more. The main reason behind that was the very small amount of clearance between the clutch outer metal driven plate and one of the shallow hex head socket bolts in the face of the gearbox which probably only had a millimetre or two of clearance. Enough?... but is it?
So, does anyone know exactly how far into the clutch the gearbox input shaft should be? Should it be all the way in so that there are just about no splines showing or is my 3 mm acceptable? I can soon get rid of the 3 mm by removing the washers from under the pillars.
On a different note, I have loosely attached the engine loom (I was bored as it will be coming straight off while the engine is fitted) and there are lots and lots of connectors which obviously donít do anything on the engine. Watch this space. Specialist Components here I come..on pay day.

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and finally, (Wrong thread really) †the throttle pedal (plastic!) Is not what you would think, a wire wound potentiometer but it looks like a Hall Effect affair with a magnet inside. Therefore, I think Iím going to have to use the original assembly and get it to operate with a throttle to run the fly by wire throttle. Fortunately, inside the BMW fairing, that is lots of room to accommodate electronic wizardry. Suggestions welcome.

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K75cster

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When you press the clutch lever in wont the clutch plate free up and move backwards just a little? Seems to me at least it wont bind on the gearbox front cover.


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Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

touchwoodsden

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K75cster wrote:When you press the clutch lever in wont the clutch plate free up and move backwards just a little? Seems to me at least it wont bind on the gearbox front cover.
Its the other way round. The outer driven plate is fixed and the inner one moves fwd, so friction plate moves fwd too.
It will move back slightly as clutch friction plate plate wears. This has given me inspiration. I will assemble loosely (vertical-that how it is at the mo cos I turned piccys through 90deg) †so that gravity helps. If clutch pushrod fits with same setting on lever adjuster screw, then its right. Eureka..I think!

    

K75cster

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Yep an empirical solution to the hypothetical, Its most likely the one we all use.


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Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

5Back to top Go down    Sorted on Sun Jan 24, 2016 11:15 am

touchwoodsden

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Fitted clutchg lever and pushrod and distance seems right. The adjuster has plenty left to take up as clutch wears. If anything it could go even further out!

    

RicK G

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Make sure the rubber boot is sitting squarely on the actuating lever spigot or it will leak. This usually happens when the adjusting screw is in too far.


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

7Back to top Go down    Good Point on Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:57 pm

touchwoodsden

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RicK G wrote:Make sure the rubber boot is sitting squarely on the actuating lever spigot or it will leak. This usually happens when the adjusting screw is in too far.
Good point. In fact, I checked and its dead square so I guess I have it right. I really appreciate that point.
Regards

    

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