BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down    Wrist ache on Fri May 20, 2016 8:53 pm

Davep

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OK, so did 100mile today on the K100rs. Great ride but found my wrist were getting sore and aching by 50mile point!!

OK! So I know that this is quite a new riding position for me after coming from some more upright bikes, Suzuki GS750et '79 model, Honda DX450 and a lovely Kawasaki Zephyr 750 to name a few over the last couple of years (still have the Suzuki) (wish I still had the Zephyr) in fact, I wish I had kept all my bikes!

I digress!!

Can I just pop a set of LT bars on the RS? I'm worried as I'm due to take daughter over to Paris and my son wants to go to Berlin, they both love bike trips but I don't want to end up grumpy and struggling!!

BTW, 100miles on the Isle of Wight is about twice around it!!

    

2Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Fri May 20, 2016 9:13 pm

Two Wheels Better

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You can, but you'll need a longer brake hose, clutch and accelerator cables. Plus, the dashpad is different between RS and LT and there might be clearance issues in full lock mode against the fairing. Perhaps a set of 25mm riser saddles would help to bring the 'bars back up and towards you a smidgen. Also, try rotating the controls by loosening the tension screws either side (under the switchgear) and swinging the assemblies forward or backward around the 'bars to see if that alleviates the cramping at all.


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'77 R75/7-1000cc, '87 K100RS, '89 K100 Big Block K12, '03 K1200GT, '04 R1150RT, '06 K1200R & '07 K1200R
    

3Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Fri May 20, 2016 9:22 pm

RicK G

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Hi Dave The RT bars do fit but you will need to replace the clutch, throttle and choke cable with the RT version as well as the brake hydraulic line from the master cylinder. Fortunately the electrical cables from the switches are the same for both models. One option is to use the bars from a K75c which are slightly higher but dont require a cable change however they can be hard to find.  The bars are 22mm and as such are slightly smaller than the more common 7/8" bars the Jap bikes use so the controls don't slide over the bars without some mods to either the bars or controls.


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

4Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Fri May 20, 2016 9:54 pm

pond snail

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Hello Dave,

Have you thought about using handlebars from another model BMW?, I have just ordered a set of R65 bars from motobins, about £40 I think, brand new, they have a few different bars listed, useful pictures with dimensions too.

Motorworks have similar, worth checking both sites as stated dimensions vary giving bit more choice.

I had RT bars on my K75, to be honest could not stand them!, just too high and far back, of course its a very subjective thing, we all have our preferences.

You may be OK with you're original cables too, with the R65 type bars, that could be quite a saving in itself!.

John

    

5Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 12:26 am

Holister

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Why not sell the RS before you become too attached and look for a nice K100RT. They're a very comfortable bike to ride. Sounds like the wider and higher bars may suit you better plus, better control with a pillion. The fairing offers greater protection from the rain and cold and they usually come with a comfort seat... that in itself is a big bonus IMO.

There has been a lot discussed here already about wrist aches etc, just seems to be an age related problem. 

Cheers


__________________________________________________
1988 K100RT     VIN No.  0094680
1989 K100RT     VIN No.  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN No.  0451808
     Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

6Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 12:31 am

duck

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Cruise control.


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (K75C fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, 32/10 final drive)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
93 K1100RS
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

7Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 12:37 am

Ed

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Holister (KH) wrote:Why not sell the RS before you become too attached and look for a nice K100RT. They're a very comfortable bike to ride. Sounds like the wider and higher bars may suit you better plus, better control with a pillion. The fairing offers greater protection from the rain and cold and they usually come with a comfort seat... that in itself is a big bonus IMO.

There has been a lot discussed here already about wrist aches etc, just seems to be an age related problem. 

Cheers
In agreeance here , sounds like the upright positioning is more suited to you . The only drawback is the fullwrap fairings , but as Charlie and others have proven , the lowers removed improve the comfort. Even just a bikini in front will make the ride more pleasurable.


__________________________________________________
1987 K100RT  Ex- police    
1989 K100LT  Ol' Blue and "Kart" the Kamper trailer.  now KAPUT . 
1993 K1100RS  0194321         Colour #690 Silk Blue  aka " Smurfette"
    

8Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 12:41 am

RicK G

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@duck wrote:Cruise control.
+1 on that but there are so many who are reluctant to do it. I wouldn't be without mine now.


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

9Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 12:50 am

duck

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@RicK G wrote:
@duck wrote:Cruise control.
+1 on that but there are so many who are reluctant to do it. I wouldn't be without mine now.

Yep, on straights you can sit upright and drive with a couple of fingers and only have lean in on the handlebars when you hit the twisties. Makes my RS bikes much easier to do distance on.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (K75C fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, 32/10 final drive)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
93 K1100RS
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

10Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 4:04 am

Davep

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Thanks for all the advice!! I didn't think it would be just a quick bolt off/bolt on job!!

I know what you mean about selling the and getting a more upright but I do love riding it! The way it moves and pulls!! The way it looks!! I find myself checking out my reflection in shop windows when riding through towns - How vain!!

I will have a look at the cruise control - Maybe some cleaver wrist yoga is needed!!

    

11Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 4:37 am

Waz

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I used bar risers and made some minor adjustments to bars and grip angles. I few small changes made a big difference.


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1987 K100 RS
1997 R1100R
    

12Back to top Go down    Re: Wrist ache on Sat May 21, 2016 8:18 am

Dai

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I modified LFB to take Japanese switches and I know Rick did the same. One of the side-effects of that decision is that the throttle has to be changed; result is finger-and-thumb operation. No more deathgrip on long runs.

The naked K-bars will fit without modifying the existing cables. Also, as Waz says, risers can make a hell of a lot of difference. I found that 25mm on naked bars went from wrist-ache to face-ache (big smile).


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'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

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