BMW K bikes (Bricks)

You are not connected. Please login or register

View previous topic View next topic Go down  Message [Page 1 of 1]


johnnyalpha

avatar
active member
active member
HI Folks, been away for a wee while, but back now.

New to me K75S, seems to be getting water into the tank.

I have a new tank/cap seal. However water still getting in Sad

I obviously have the pump-filter-output pipe-injectors working, as the bike runs well, UNTIL
I get water in the fuel, and the bike doesn't run well on water :/

How does the water going down the drain at the 9 oclock position get dumped ?
It must have a way of NOT being mixed with the fuel.

Sorry about my woeful state of ignorance,but is there another pipe inside the tank, or meant to be ?

BW Johnny Scotland

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
@johnnyalpha wrote:HI Folks, been away for a wee while, but back now.

New to me K75S, seems to be getting water into the tank.

I have a new tank/cap seal. However water still getting in Sad

I obviously have the pump-filter-output pipe-injectors working, as the bike runs well, UNTIL
I get water in the fuel, and the bike doesn't run well on water :/

How does the water going down the drain at the 9 oclock position get dumped ?
It must have a way of NOT being mixed with the fuel.

Sorry about my woeful state of ignorance,but is there another pipe inside the tank, or meant to be ?

BW Johnny Scotland

The 9 o'clock drain is into a pipe that passes through inside the tank and comes out underneath.....or should come out. If it isn't coming out only other place it can go is in the petrol. Run a little test on it and see what happens. Blowing into a straw is one way. If its leaking inside the tank its likely to be up high as otherwise you would have petrol leaking out the drain pipe.

But before you go at that take out the 4 screws you see when you open the petrol cap which should open back towards you, as in the hinge is at the rear of the tank. The whole cap assembly will lift out, just don't drop the screws. It should be seated on a watertight gasket that has a hole in it at 9 o'clock so any water can drain off into the hole. That should be the new seal you just put in?

If the hole or pipe is blocked then water can get in the tank easily.
With all the rain we get I see quite a few instances of contaminated fuel.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 100,380 miles
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell No 33,600 miles
    

blaKey

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
These photos show the piping for a K100 (1986?), however, it may not be the same as your bike, but it may give you an idea of what's going on...

Two photos from different angles.

I hope they help...

I am back !  Need to know the internal plumbing of K75S tank Tank_110

I am back !  Need to know the internal plumbing of K75S tank Tank210


__________________________________________________
Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!

Dress for the ride and the potential slide.
    

johnnyalpha

avatar
active member
active member
Wow these pics are amazing,thanks, so the pipes are solid plumbing not rubber ?  Is that a sectioned tank ?
By that I mean the piping leads directly to the outside of the tank at the RHS rear of the tank?

Need to use the bus for commuting to work until I get sorted out with this problem, of course ,at this time of year,it leaves very little daylight to work in. Sad  Probably be the weekend until I can get round to it Sad  In the meantime I have covered bike with a good solid waterproof cover.

Ho hum such fun !

Johnnyalpha

PS I take it that blocking the cap drain is not a good idea ?  water still gets in ?

    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
Yes that was a real tank till the grinder got to it.
The plumbing is solid.
It goes to the RHS where a small plastic catch tray is positioned which drains to the RHS just to the rear of the pillion footpeg.
Don't block the drain as it lets water accumulate so that when the cap is opened you will see a heap of water go glop into the tank.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
You don't need to worry about the drain plumbing inside the tank. Its all fixed aluminium tubing welded in place. If you're getting water inside your tank you probably need a new tank to cap base gasket. #8 in the diagram below which is oem part #16111453690. This is the bottom gasket that actually keeps the water out.

When you remove the whole cap assembly, you'll probably see a bit of aluminium oxidation come away on the bottom rubber seal. If the rubber is in ok condition, all you need to do is  clean all surfaces completely and coat with something like silicon grease (not sealant) and replace. Motorworks and others have the bottom gasket if it needs replacing.


This Chris Harris Youtube video shows how to rebuild the cap with a new seal kit but it doesn't deal with the bottom gasket.

I am back !  Need to know the internal plumbing of K75S tank Diag_1u9


__________________________________________________

1989 K100RT     VIN No.  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN No.  0451808
  I am back !  Need to know the internal plumbing of K75S tank Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

johnnyalpha

avatar
active member
active member
Thanks for all the replies. A bit of a plumbers nightmare in there !!!!

I have a new tank seal in place,but no silicon grease,will fix that.

PITA that I won't be able get to grips with this until probably the weekend Sad

Work the curse of the riding class !

BW J

    

johnnyalpha

avatar
active member
active member
OK, I got a hour or so of daylight, so I had a look at the tank.
Firstly I thought that a PO had deliberately blocked the hole with epoxy or something,I just could not get anything down
there. So I took a small nail and tapped it in very gingerly,it wasn't that hard,but it was gritty and crusty,then I had BREAKTHROUGH.
It all fell away and the hole was clear. Next step was to take some strimmer spool,and I was able to feed it right through until it popped out the bottom of the tank Smile))) I then danced a wee jig. Then cleaned and cleaned with brake cleaner and strimmer plastic.
Then I dropped a small amount of water on the edge of the cap and was gratified to see it head down the drain hole, a wee bit more and it did the same Smile 
Then I used silicone grease to seat the tank rubber seal,under it and on top, then re installed the cap.
Quick whiz up and down and the bike ran really well.

I feel reasonably confident that this has solved the water getting into the tank problem,time will tell of course.
This process of keeping the drain clear will now be part of my maintenance routine.

I would like to thank everyone for the input, I am indebted to you all.

BW Johnny Z

    

View previous topic View next topic Back to top  Message [Page 1 of 1]

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum