BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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I see several threads on this, but no bottom-line answer.

Does lowering a K100 an inch make the bike handle better, worse, or no different?

Are there downsides to lowering a K?

Is it net worth it to lower a K if you'd like the bike a bit lower?




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In theory it should make it turn in faster, but I really, really doubt if the average road rider would notice the difference even in a side-by-side comparison. If you're a loopy rider than you might scrape your boots a bit more often (yes, it's possible on a K!) but it's difficult to get the ironwork down.

A lower seat would be the cheaper way to go because although you can slide the forks up by about 20mm, to lower the backend you'll have to go to the expense of a new shock.

'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)

Born Again Eccentric

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@k wrote:Are there downsides to lowering a K?
With the back end lowered, you'll have more trouble getting the bike on the centre stand (without herculean efforts) - if you go too low, you'll also find that a little camber on the road side will make the bike sit more upright on the side stand (and therefore be more likely to topple to the right). I found out both these issues when my old nivomat shock gave up the ghost and went flat on me during a camping weekend in Ireland and again (with a RAM shock fitted) when I got a rear tyre puncture on a day ride out to Wales.



"Heidi" K100LT 1991 (Grey) (VIN 0190172 Engine No. 104EB 2590 2213) - 5th owner. January 2014 (34,000 - 61,000 miles and counting....)
"Gretel" K100LT 1989 (Silver Grey) (VIN 0177324 Engine No. 104EA 2789 2211) - 4th+ owner. September 2015 (58,500miles and counting....). Cat C Insurancewrite-off rebuild Feb 17
"Donor" K100LT 1990 (Red) (VIN 0178091 Engine No. 4489 2024) - 6th & final owner (crash write-off now donor bike). June 2012 (73,000 miles) to November 2013 (89,500 miles)

92KK 84WW Olaf

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I was in the position of needing a new rear shock and considering I had an Ikon on the LT and had already swapped my shock with the RS I decided a new one was best option.

So my new one was a YSS and it dropped the rear about 15mm. Tyres I changed too over timeand use 140/80 on the rear which is 5mm lower than 130/90, giving me about 20mm drop on the rear axle point. Fork stanchions you can pull up by anything up to about 15mm. Due to accident damage I changed the stand assembly to a later one but it needs all my weight to get it onto the centre stand. The end result is I can flat foot both feet when stopped and that makes a big difference.

Having been able to compare the LT and RT I found the RT much better to manage and to handle, feels quite nimble if such a word can be applied to a K. I haven't bothered with low seat options and not sure any of the above changes would be worth doing for the sake of it. However they cost me nothing so I was happy with the outcome.

Use of rear brake is very effective in tight curves like roundabouts and turns, really helps the bike to fall into the turn. Ks have a good weight distribution on the rear at low speeds and can take reasonable rear wheel braking but as always make sure to read the road surfaces well for diesel and grit.

Now last week I had another look at the LT and realised the rear shock is actually a genuine Koni and not an Ikon so I will get it rebuilt.

1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 86,950 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox

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