Hi all,
I am fitting oem heated grips to my K1 restoration (yes I know Oxford grips are better, but I want oem) and need to drill and tap the bars to lock the L/H grip in position. As I do not have the right bar end weights yet, my question is this - does the grip tube that has the heating wiring attached to it sit flush with the end of the bars or is it recessed? Want to get this part of the job done while I wait for bar ends to come up for sale. If anyone has any for sale though, could you let me know. Aussie or Kiwi members only please.
Thanks

Flush.

Cheers Duck. Love a short and concise answer! Now I'll ask another question. Are the calliper pistons open at one end so requiring them to be fitted into the calliper in a certain direction or sealed both ends so it doesn't matter?
Thanks

I am progressing with the retro fit of oem grips. I have the correct bar end weights and the fitting that lives inside the bars that allows the wiring to pass through. The internal end weight fitting has a pin that requires a slot in the end of the bars to prevent it turning when tightening the end weight screw. Easily done. Problem is the end weight needs to fit up hard against the end of the bars and the heat wiring is still in the way. On original heated grip bars is there a step in the end of the bars that the wiring sits in? On the throttle side it would need to be big enough to accommodate grip twist travel, on the L/H side, not so, just a slot. Am I on the right track? 
I realise that Oxfords would have been easier, but I want the original look for this restoration. 
Thanks as always for the help

The original bars for original heated grips have a significant slot in the end.

I know this because when I ordered replacements bars from my K100RT they had the slots but my RT had no heated grips. I didn't bother sending them back as they were in very good condition so I cut them back so they were flush ends. The slot was about 12mm deep and went about half way round the end. Probably means my finished bars were 25mm narrower across the width but that wasn't a trouble.

Bottom line will be get the correct bars for the OEM grips.

Thanks a heap Olaf, very helpful in deed and as I thought, but nice to have it confirmed. K1 bars and model specific so probably as rare as rocking horse teeth, so will modify what I have.
Thanks again

Hi Richard

I have a brand new set of k1 bars and will take a few pictures so you can see where the holes are.
I also have the other pictures for you and will send later.

I just checked my k1 bars (still in the bag) but not drilled for heated grips 

Hi KiwiK100, this sketch that I made of the cutout on the end of a set of RT bars with heated grips may help you modify your bars to take OEM heated grip wiring.

I modified a set of aftermarket bars to take OEM heated grips by doing this. The drawing is a bit blurry as I had to convert from pdf.

The 23.7mm section on the right hand end is the threaded insert that goes into the bars for the end weight to mount on and uses the small locating slot to prevent the insert turning.

Cheers

Ringfad wrote:I just checked my k1 bars (still in the bag) but not drilled for heated grips 

Well they're no good to you then Simon, living in Ireland. I know it never stops raining and it gets cold too, but I have very fond memories of hitching around your beautiful country in 1980. Maybe an Aussie owner could make better use of them 

Gaz wrote:Hi KiwiK100, this sketch that I made of the cutout on the end of a set of RT bars with heated grips may help you modify your bars to take OEM heated grip wiring.

I modified a set of aftermarket bars to take OEM heated grips by doing this. The drawing is a bit blurry as I had to convert from pdf.

The 23.7mm section on the right hand end is the threaded insert that goes into the bars for the end weight to mount on and uses the small locating slot to prevent the insert turning.

Cheers

Gaz, thanks heaps mate. I'm all over it now, with the locating pin in the right spot to allow for throttle travel without interfering with the wiring.

Worked to the wee hours last night and got the heated grips sorted with the bar end weights. Many thanks to all that contributed, especially Gaz with his excellent mud map. Worked a treat  Now I'm waiting for the new MC rubber boot before bleeding the brakes again  Hopefully I can push the brake fluid back up from the ABS pump into the MC and purge the air that way. Otherwise I've got to take all the tupperware off and that doesn't impress me at all.

duck wrote:Flush.

Negative