Helo all, I posted this on motobrick yesterday but figure I would post up on here as both I know can be a lot of help with my upcoming build. 

I've decided to start my first motorcycle build thread on a 1987 BMW K100 with 63, XXX mi. which I bought from a forum member and just received delivery of yesterday. It was in somewhat rough shape but good mechanically and didn't mind since most of what is seen now, will be gone in a few days. 't will be ridden daily and turned in to something i'm not really sure how to describe. It will be somewhat of a mix between a futuristic street fighter/cafe racer-esque motorcycle. I don't have renders of what i'm planning to do but I have them on my work computer and will post up later. 

As of today I started removing the fairing along with the side and top bags. I have also begun my CAD drawings so I can print out the bracket for my headlights and speedo mount.  I will start with the maintenance baseline on saturday as i'm making the move from Austin,Tx to Houston, Tx. today.

 I have made a list of mods I want to have done and cross them out as I go and update on here as well. 

Intended Mod list: 
Strip all fairings 
install custom headlights 
Install Aftermarket Speedo(I've purchased a universal speedo for the time being but will be purchasing the Motoscope Pro soon)
Custom Seat 
Lowered 3/4" 
relocated ignition switch ( plan on installing an m-lock in the future) 
New rear sets(seems like BSK is the way to go)
Clip-On Handlebars with new grips(I'm going with 41mm 7/8th and either slightly forcing them on there or using a dremel to help with the fit)
Shorten frame 
Fabricate Custom rear end 
Rear wheel replacement with K2100 5 spoke (Have the rim on the way) 
Front end replacement with a K1100 front end 
Spiegler Front and rear brake line kits
Paint
Suspension wise it came with a progressive shock from Progressive Suspension USA so i'm not sure when or if i'll be upgrading.


I have attached the pictures I took when I received it and then pictures after i've started removing stuff the same day. 

Sounds good, looking forward to updates.

Sounds good, trying to do similar with my k75.

Like the Wheels !   

I've considered putting a set on my K11rs when funds allow.

Small update to the build, I have started cleaning up the wiring and while I was at it I figured i'd put on the K1200RS 5" wheel. I replaced the center stand with a K1100 one along with 5mm shorter wheel bolts and it went right in. If one wanted one could also just remove the center stand altogether just keeping the side stand to have the wider wheel. I got to ride it a bit around the block before I removed the fuel tank and you can really feel how much more planted it is. I thought maybe the offset would affect it but I didn't feel it did. Once I finish this build I will be getting proper new rubber and i'm sure it'll be even better. 

Also, does anyone know what this pinkish wire goes to? Couldn't find it in the diagrams. It's from the top of the engine cover and goes into the fuse box but wasn't plugged into anything. Must not be super crucial to run as it wasn't plugged in even when I got it and it was running fine. 

That wire is not OEM. Ask the PO what it is for.

just terminates to a ring connector on the engine casing ?

toss it, its doing little at all at the moment .

if you want to do something about the wiring ...just replace the main ground wire to the battery from the gearbox termination bolt with some thing bigger in cross sectional diameter .

Its been a while since i've updated. As with all builds sometimes personal things come up and it has to be put on the back burner but i'm back and working on it. I also posted this update on motobrick but I know not everyone on here is over there. 



I got rid of the old rubber brake hoses which i'm not sure were ever replaced with new braided ones with help of Tom at Katy Hydraulics. I found a huge cut in one of them so i'm glad I did that before anything could have happened. I restored the master cylinder with new rubber gasket and cleaned out the gunk inside of it. 



I have now modified the frame to suit to where the awkward downward angle was fixed and made flat while able to keep the stock shock mounts in place or at least at the same angle and height.I thought about changing the angle of the tank itself to be flush with everything but I actually like the upward angle it's at and it would fit with the angle of the rear cowl I was making. To make the tail piece I shaped it out of steel and once I got it the shape I wanted it I put some glaze over it to really get it all smooth and then primed it. Its got a slit in it so it'll have the frame go in it and then be held down by two nutserts at the front of the cowl itself. As for the rear tail light, I had a custom tail light ordered from Radiantz. It's a double stack LED flexible strip and when the turn signals turn on half of it changes in to an amber color then back to red and will also act as the brake light.



I was able to get rid of the old temporary chinese clip ons and install the ABM multiCLIP tour clip ons. They were a bit pricy but with the amount of adjustability and height they can come up to while still be able to go down when I need them to were worth it to me. Probably some of the best machined bars i've had on a bike. They can be adjusted 5 different ways and on the spot. 



I was also able to clean up the rear wheel and just plasti-dip it black to see what it looked like and to match the already black front wheel. Installed the Progressive 465 shock I received from a fellow forum member in the rear to replace the Progressive 412 shock that was on there when I bought it. If anyone wants it you're welcome to it(just pay shipping of course). It works AFAIK.  
 


For headlights, I have these LED projectors i've used in the past for other stuff and had a friend here in Houston who does custom headlights for custom trucks and such add a cutoff point so I won't be blinding everybody while using them. Made the bracket out of steel but i'm not exactly sure if I'll be keeping the look. I might just go with an Urban Headlight kit from an MT-07 or the oval headlight from the VMAX. The projectors I have now work great but not sure if the look fits right. 



I was able to strip the tank with the aircraft stripper and this stuff works wonders. I am hoping to remove the tabs tomorrow at the front of the tank since they are of no use to me and just don't look right without any fairings. As for paint, I am stuck on two paint jobs but leaning towards the black with the "M" livery stripes. I will be going vinyl over the primer as I am most likely changing colors again in a few months. She is running with all new fluids, spark plugs, and rubber hoses. I have a Shorai lithium battery on the way and will be ordering the BSK rear sets in a week or so. As for speedometer, I was going to use the 12,000 RPM eBay speedo I have but will wait it out and go ahead and order the motogadget motoscope pro. I am in no hurry as Maru from Maru-Labs won't be sending out the new version of the BEP 3.0 until the end of september. Seat pan is being made now and will be off to upholstery soon. 

 




Also, I have this random wire coming out and I thought it was the speed sensor one but the speed sensor one is already there. Any ideas? Also, anyone have any recommendations for an overflow tank to be able to be placed towards the front of the bike? I realize I could always make one myself but would prefer something I can buy from amazon or eBay that someones tried out already. 
 

That there random wire is a second speedo pickup. Trace them both through and see which one is connected; you shouldn't need to go further than the righthand sidepanel area.

IME the pickup that is screwed to the bevel drive is an early type that can be dismantled. The plastic nut unscrews at the front and the countersunk Philips screw releases the top cover allowing it to slide forward along the wire. Inside there's two wires (brown and yellow) soldered to a pair of brass terminals. They corrode here. If you can, use the sealed pickup (your random wire) for greater reliability.

Dai wrote:That there random wire is a second speedo pickup. Trace them both through and see which one is connected; you shouldn't need to go further than the righthand sidepanel area.

IME the pickup that is screwed to the bevel drive is an early type that can be dismantled. The plastic nut unscrews at the front and the countersunk Philips screw releases the top cover allowing it to slide forward along the wire. Inside there's two wires (brown and yellow) soldered to a pair of brass terminals. They corrode here. If you can, use the sealed pickup (your random wire) for greater reliability.

So there should only be one speedo pickup correct? Is the second one just a random one PO didn't remove or sometbing? The one that's already in the drive works well but like you said, if the one that's loose is a better version I'll just replace the one that's already in with the one that's loose.

I'm gonna have to say that something about the white w/livery really speaks to me.

Thanks so much for sharing!

I have just started going down the same road as you have. I have so far completed two days of stripping and the ideas are evolving as I work.
The different is that I am starting with a '91 K100RS that I have owned for a few years and I know that mechanically it is perfect. Being a 16 valve I have the bigger wheels as standard.
The main question is what do you do with all of the left over parts? I now have all the RS fairings off. I assume that things like the water and fuel gauges with fittings and harness, and the Corbin leather seat all have a value, they would help fund the project.
Not sure what I intend to do with the instruments yet, but might just use the standard one at first. I am also thinking that I might keep the ABS on mine, won't look nice but it works. So many decisions to make.
Keep up the reporting, it's giving me food for thought.

BobT wrote:I have just started going down the same road as you have. I have so far completed two days of stripping and the ideas are evolving as I work.
The different is that I am starting with a '91 K100RS that I have owned for a few years and I know that mechanically it is perfect. Being a 16 valve I have the bigger wheels as standard.
The main question is what do you do with all of the left over parts? I now have all the RS fairings off. I assume that things like the water and fuel gauges with fittings and harness, and the Corbin leather seat all have a value, they would help fund the project.
Not sure what I intend to do with the instruments yet, but might just use the standard one at first. I am also thinking that I might keep the ABS on mine, won't look nice but it works. So many decisions to make.
Keep up the reporting, it's giving me food for thought.

I actually started off selling them on eBay but found a guy that was looking to basically turn his k100 trike back into the original 2 wheel k100 LT. So basically turn his bike into what mine looked like with all fairings and such so I sold him pretty much everything (fairings, gauges, etc) I was lucky enough to find someone who would buy all the parts but you could either list it all in one listing on eBay or forums and such or just sell everything seperately. If I had good working ABS I'd probably end up keeping it if it worked well but alas' mine didn't come with ABS. Good luck with your build!

pabloooo wrote:

So there should only be one speedo pickup correct? Is the second one just a random one PO didn't remove or sometbing? The one that's already in the drive works well but like you said, if the one that's loose is a better version I'll just replace the one that's already in with the one that's loose.

Yes. If the one that's in is working okay then I'd just remove the loose one and store it as a replacement. The sensor can be a real bitch to get out (or it will just pop out as easy as pie); no point in fixing what's working.

Here is an update to the build. I posted one on motobrick but I know not everyone on here is on there. 


Time for a needed update. As with a lot of these builds go, things come up so the build gets put on the back burner but I hope to finish it soon. I only have a couple of electrics and tiny details. 

As for recently, I did get the mt-07 headlight and still deciding on whether or not to keep it. I think it fits the build well and when I lower the clip ons to "race" position it will look even better. I have cut off the tabs where the fairings went on the tank itself as I felt it looked better this way. 

I received a big shipment of motogadget parts. I got an m-unit, m-grips, m-rear mirrors, m-lock, m-blaze turn signals, and the good looking motoscope pro with a breakout box. I also received the Brotbox 3.0 as well which has helped immensely with the wiring. I also realized that I might as well also update the controls. I've ordered the motogadget 3 button controls and to do that I also had to order a new clutch and brake lever assembly from ABM. While those come in, I'll be using the original ones for now. I'll go more into depth on how I wired everything up in a later post as I'm not done with everything. With me having not having much experience in this department, it's been a learning experience. 

I made up a seat pan and installed some nutserts to keep it from going anywhere. It is now at the upholsterer in Mexico (family goes to visit once a month so I sent it over with them) I've paid about $30 to get it upholstered with plenty of memory foam and leather. I didn't really feel like going through the trouble of learning to do it myself if the material cost here will be more than having it done there. My family has used them before so their work from what we've seen has been pretty great. 

I've cleaned up the tank a lot better and removed everything I could down to bare aluminum and then primed it and ready for vinyl. I tried it with the rear cowl and so far so good but still took a few tries so I'm sure it'll be a while for the tank. I started her up a few weeks ago before starting the tank so mechanically, she's doing real good. I've got a k1100 front end in the garage along with some new rotors. I'm just looking to find a good 3 spoke k1100rs front wheel and the front calipers now and I can put it on but I also might go the route of having an axle made to fit the 5 spoke k1200 wheel to match the rear one but at around $400 to have one made I'm still debating it. Also would like to have the frame repainted. As for now, I just want to get the electrics finished and get my seat back so I can take her out for a little

Looks like a mean little beastie, doing great.

Can I ask you about the rear wheel?  I saw you posted that it came from a k1200, and that your bike is an 87.  I'm looking to upgrade the wheel on my 85 k100rs and am finding conflicting info.

So the k1200 5 spoke wheel just bolted right up and fit?  You just had to use a different center stand (or none at all)?  Do you happen to know the exact model year your wheel came from?

oooh, lastly... how did the wrap go on the tank?  I'm going to do my in a digital snow camouflage print but I've only ever wrapped automotive interior trim.  Does the circular nature of the tank make it really difficult?

Thanks.  Bike is looking great, I'm going down a similar path.  Trying to decided on a MT03 or MT07 headlight as well.

boostd4 wrote:So the k1200 5 spoke wheel just bolted right up and fit?  You just had to use a different center stand (or none at all)?  Do you happen to know the exact model year your wheel came from?

oooh, lastly... how did the wrap go on the tank?  I'm going to do my in a digital snow camouflage print but I've only ever wrapped automotive interior trim.  Does the circular nature of the tank make it really difficult?

Thanks.  Bike is looking great, I'm going down a similar path.  Trying to decided on a MT03 or MT07 headlight as well.

Yes, the k1200 5-spoke bolted right up. You could modify your current K100 center stand but if I remember correctly, the k1100 center stand if you can source one, will bolt right up and fit with no modifications. I just removed the center stand all together and it's how I had it. You would just need the wheel and the k1100 lug nuts which are 5mm shorter than the k100 ones if I remember correctly. The rear wheel is the 5" one that came off of a 98 k1200rs. Keep in mind there might be a little offset in the rear wheel but you get used to it or you could also upgrade to the paralever rear end and I think that might help lessen the offset but for me it worked out. 

It actually was a bit difficult since it was my first time and I hadn't really had much practice but with patience and a heat gun it can go smoothly. You might also want to do it in sections like wrap part of the tank at a crease and start another section which is how I did part of mine and it's not really noticeable. The actual wrap brand itself can make a big difference in the way they are made. For example, one might be better with heat and be flexible while the other might have an adhesive that's more forgiving.It just depends on the brand and i'd do some research on that. 

As for the headlight, I went with the mt-03 headlight. The only modification I had to make was change the connector to the daytime headlight but everything just plugged right in. I am considering changing it to an oval headlight which will hopefully make it look a bit better in my eyes. 

I did end up removing the rear 5-spoke wheel as it wasn't really fitting the look for me so I have it in my garage. I've only ridden it for about 3 times but I bought it brand new as some old stock the dealer had. It has no scratches or anything so if you are interested in it I could make you a good deal on it!

I would be interested in it, however there are plenty of them on eBay right now and they go pretty cheap used. Between $130 and $250, sellers state they are true (some with spinning videos on YouTube)

I know they were stupid expensive when new. I checked on the 18" 3 spoke wheel and MSRP is like $1000. 

The 3M wrap is really expensive. I have a feeling I might screw it up, and then be in the hole for over $100 in wrap. There's some brands on eBay that are pretty cheap, I found a white camouflage print wrap in a 5' x 6' sheet for less than $30. It probably sucks, but might be good to learn on.

I was looking at your post dates, and it looks like it took about three weeks to get your seat. Does that sound about right? I'm going to order my clip ons and headlight soon, but without the seat, the bike really looks kind of silly.  I've been trying to find 22 mm clip on's, but everything advertises as 7/8". Was it a huge pain to dremel out the controls?

Sorry for all the questions, it's nice to have people with interest in these projects, not a lot of brick café and or streetfighters out there. None that I've ever seen in my area.

boostd4 wrote:I would be interested in it, however there are plenty of them on eBay right now and they go pretty cheap used. Between $130 and $250, sellers state they are true (some with spinning videos on YouTube)

The 3M wrap is really expensive. I have a feeling I might screw it up, and then be in the hole for over $100 in wrap. There's some brands on eBay that are pretty cheap, I found a white camouflage print wrap in a 5' x 6' sheet for less than $30. It probably sucks, but might be good to learn on.

I was looking at your post dates, and it looks like it took about three weeks to get your seat. Does that sound about right? I'm going to order my clip ons and headlight soon, but without the seat, the bike really looks kind of silly.  I've been trying to find 22 mm clip on's, but everything advertises as 7/8". Was it a huge pain to dremel out the controls?

Sorry for all the questions, it's nice to have people with interest in these projects, not a lot of brick café and or streetfighters out there. None that I've ever seen in my area.

It's no problem. It's why I posted it up on here. 

As for the wheel, I could do that price range as well. I bought it for $200 but would be willing to sell for a lot less than that plus whatever shipping is to you. I just rather not go through the hassle of eBay and its fees and all that. Plus, it'll probably end up sitting in my garage anyway. 

I actually didn't go with 3m or Avery. I went with VViViD wrap which was a little weird with the adhesiveness but it worked out and doesn't look bad. It's $40 for a 5x6 roll of matte black which was enough for the front fender, tank, and tail. Not sure if they have camo but its what I used ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXYG3YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 )

As for the seat, it did take about a week to get made but because I had it made in a town where my family lives in mexico, I wasn't able to get it until about 3 weeks after I dropped it off. It's pleather as I didn't wanna deal with maintaining leather but it had actual foam and it only cost me about $25 USD to get made. including materials. 

Clip-ons are a bit hard to find so i'm not too sure about those. At first I had some Chinese eBay ones and like a lot of people here, I sanded back the paint to get that amount off and slide on the controls but I didn't really trust it so I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought these ABM ones. Might be expensive but they're really well made and the adjustment on them is crazy. Also, because they're made in Germany they are exactly 22mm and not 7/8".  https://spieglerusa.com/controls/handlebars-accessories-311/multiclip/multiclip-tour-41mm.htm    I didn't Dremel any controls. They were tight enough that they won't fall off.

I meant the fiberglass seat base...  did you get it from the guy on ebay (the link I posted above?).  Was curious how long it took to get the base considering the auction states he's in Lithuania.

So you ground down the clip on bars instead of shaving down the inside of the controls.  Hmmm.  I want black clip on bars, not sure I want to grind off that black coating but you gotta do what you gotta do

PM about the wheel.  I haven't completely decided if I want 3 spoke 18x4.5 or the 5 spoke 17x5 design but price may be the tipping point.

boostd4 wrote:I meant the fiberglass seat base...  did you get it from the guy on ebay (the link I posted above?).  Was curious how long it took to get the base considering the auction states he's in Lithuania.

So you ground down the clip on bars instead of shaving down the inside of the controls.  Hmmm.  I want black clip on bars, not sure I want to grind off that black coating but you gotta do what you gotta do

PM about the wheel.  I haven't completely decided if I want 3 spoke 18x4.5 or the 5 spoke 17x5 design but price may be the tipping point.

Oh no, it wasn't bought. I made it from sheet metal by bending pieces, tacking it then using glaze over it to smooth it out. You can see the process in my previous pics. 

I'd rather grind down the clip-ons which are alot easier to rather than the harder to find controls.