BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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boostd4

boostd4
Silver member
Silver member
Hooray!

First and foremost, thanks to the kind folk on this forum, specifically robmack.

I'm using the Marulabs BEP 3.0 and an Acewell 6456 seen here:


I'm doing more of a streetfighter build than cafe, so I wanted the more modern sportbike like speedometer.

If anyone is tackling this a few pointers - there are a few wires that come with ground loops and connectors already on them from Acewell.  Specifically the speed, fuel, and temp connectors.  You can just cut the ground wires out.  The colored wire (+) for these signals goes right into the BEP 3.0.  There are 2 RPM wires that came on my Acewell.  One gray and one yellow.  I first hooked up the yellow wire and though RPM worked, it jumped around at idle quite a bit - it settled when revved.  The gray wire does not do this - I saw maybe one little flicker, but was solid otherwise - use the gray wire.

The low fuel light worked for my 85 K100RS.  It does not have a floater in the tank so the fuel gauge on the Acewell reads full bars above 4L and no bars (with low fuel light icon coming on in cluster) once you go below 4L.  I have a little more than 4L in my tank right now and saw the low fuel light come on when I was on a hill and the gas sloshed around a bit - I believe it to be working properly.

When I hooked the speed+ from the Acewell to the SPD input on the BEP I got erratic readings at first.  It would say "0mph" then would jump around when I revved it in neutral.  I was concerned it wasn't going to work, but once I rode the bike around the block it stopped doing that almost immediately.  Perhaps it needed to see a signal from the sensor to calibrate itself.

Anyway, I'm happy - it was very easy except finding room under the tank for the wires.  Everything worked last night and this morning I have a check engine light and oil pressure light on the Acewell.  I know for a fact the Check engine light wire is not hooked to anything at all - I believe a wire or two is getting smashed.  I couldn't make room under the crossbar of the frame that the upright bar going under the gas tank tees into.  The wires lay flat over this bar and I think the gas tank is smashing them.  I'll update the thread when I've got it figured out.

-Adam

    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
getting there .... 
good luck !


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OBEP 3.0 works with Acewell speedo, plug and play! (for the most part) Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Good that you got this Acewell / BEP sorted.

Which output on the BEP 3.0 did you hook up the Gray RPM wire? Was it "-RPM" or "-SPD"? If it was -RPM, did you use -SPD for the road speed connection into the Acewell. I was confused by the description in the manual for those two functions.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

boostd4

boostd4
Silver member
Silver member
Gray went to RPM for the tachometer.  I believe it was yellow that went from the Acewell's speed sensor input to the SPD output on the BEP.  I have limited miles on it now, but the speed output on the Acewell appeared accurate and stable.

    

boostd4

boostd4
Silver member
Silver member
@boostd4 wrote:
Everything worked last night and this morning I have a check engine light and oil pressure light on the Acewell.  I know for a fact the Check engine light wire is not hooked to anything at all - I believe a wire or two is getting smashed.  I couldn't make room under the crossbar of the frame that the upright bar going under the gas tank tees into.  The wires lay flat over this bar and I think the gas tank is smashing them.  I'll update the thread when I've got it figured out.

Update - nothing is wrong that I can figure out.  After my oil/cel light incident, I parked the bike and propped the gas tank up at the rear so it wasn't sitting on the Acewell to BEP wires.  It sat like that for a few weeks (freezing weather).

Yesterday it was sunny and 60F, so I decided to say hell with it and go for a ride.  I put the tank back down (on the wires), put the seat on and started her up.  No warning lights came back on...  

Went for a nice long ride with no issues at all.  The fuel light came on just like it should, I filled up and now the fuel gauge shows full (to be fair, it only shows completely full or low, but that function is working).  I even did the gear-learning feature and it works perfectly now.  It's not quite instant after a gear change (as it has to interperet speed vs RPM) but definitely useful.  Neutral light works fine as well.

I'm guessing I had an oil pressure light because of oil pressure too high, perhaps.  The morning I had the light on it was about 35F ... perhaps the thick oil just needed to be heated up, I didn't actually ride it more than a block before deciding to turn around that day.

Over the off season, I'll drill a hole through the relay box (where the BEP is) and run the wires under the frame that way.

    

Dflan

Dflan
New member
New member
Hi Adam

Where did the wire come from for the spd connection into the BEP? Was this the original speed sensor positive wire or did you use acewells hall sensor?

Also in regards to the temp and fuel, were the wires you connected into the BEP from the original sensors or from the new acewell wiring?

This is where I've been stuck for a while! Cant get a speed reading!

Thanks
Dflan

    

boostd4

boostd4
Silver member
Silver member
I did not wire any of the Acewell's standalone sensors.

All of the input wires came from the two factory cluster connectors that plug into the BEP.  

My bike uses the factory RPM signal and the factory speed signal without issue.


...well not exactly without issue.  I do get a very random interference in both speed and RPM, but it's super infrequent.  Once in a while my RPM needle will blip 1000rpm or so.  Probably just electrical interference with all those wires next to each other.

I can also rev the bike in neutral and the speedometer on the BEP will increase MPH while I'm standing still.  But only if I'm revving it while stopped in neutral.  When the bike is moving the MPH is accurate and stable.

    

Dflan

Dflan
New member
New member
Thanks very much for the reply

So my issue is that I've used a wire to span from the Hall sensor to plug into the SPD hole of the BEP, because it wouldn't quite reach.
I'll try this again tomorrow.

Thanks for your advice and help Adam.

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
@Dflan wrote:
So my issue is that I've used a wire to span from the Hall sensor to plug into the SPD hole of the BEP, because it wouldn't quite reach.
I'll try this again tomorrow.
No, no, don't try that tomorrow, or the next day or ever.  There is no need to add extra wiring to a BEP installation to get the advertized functions to work.  You could well ruin the BEP or the HES or both by trying that.  The SPD is an output signal, not an input signal.  the SPD is supposed to go to your aftermarket gauge speedometer input.

http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Dflan

Dflan
New member
New member
Okay, ive done this because im confused. I am still unclear - because i have tried connecting the positive HES wire from the Acewell speedo to the SPD hole of the BEP and didnt receive a reading. Is this the correct method? If so i will try this again.

Thank-you for aiding me and preventing damage to components.
Dflan

    

jmccrary

jmccrary
Silver member
Silver member
If we only had a wire diagram...

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Cafe4racer publishes all the connection diagrams for popular aftermarket gauges like the Acewell:
https://cafe4racer.eu/en/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=24
https://cafe4racer.eu/en/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=25

Exactly which model of Acewell gauge to you own?

http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Dflan

Dflan
New member
New member
Hi rob, I followed that diagram you sent through for the other acewell unit and I am now getting reading in each department. I was confused since my acewell drawing and wires had an element of ambiguity (MD085), where I had both a green and blue speedo sensor wire.
Now the only concerns are the new unit showing low volt - even with new odyssey battery, and temperature reading is very off. The more concerning issue being low voltage if the error is correct, the acewell also displayed low voltage with the previous battery.

    

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