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SniperX

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I am still in need of an instrument cluster for my K100Rt since mine is serriously spanked. Are the K75 and K100 cluster the same in 1985? And if so, what all years are the same exactly as the 85 clusters? As in a direct swap out?

Cheers!

Kev


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92KK 84WW Olaf

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If you have a bolted down tank with a 4/7 litre fuel warning light, K75 cluster definitely won't work.

If you have the later 85 K100 tank that has the pins and clips the K75 cluster may work for you. Need to check the pins on the back of the cluster because as afar as I know there was another change later on in the shape of the connector pins.


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 83,050 miles
    

Chocolate

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Part number 62 11 2 305 252 MPH instrument cluster fits ALL K75, excluding later ABS models, thru late 1993 model year.

For K100, part number 62 11 1 459 927 MPH fits prior to 4/85 prod. date, then from 5/85 prod. date until some time in late 1988 model year, you'd use the same as a K75 cluster, again, p/n 62 11 2 305 252 for MPH.

There was no K75 as early as 1985 model year for the US using MPH. Though production on them began in July of 1985, they were 1986 models.


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5Back to top Go down    Need one for my K100RT then on Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:15 pm

SniperX

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Ok, so I need a cluster for a 1985K100RT then...where is the best place to look for a completely wokring one?
Mine works....to a fasion. It has such a warped face plate the plate pushed the speedo needle off, and the lcd for gear selection has been sunburned for years. his all happened before I got it, I put a cloth over the cluster when I park in the sun.


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robmack

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I'm designing and testing a LED replacement for the gear indicator.


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charlie99

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@robmack wrote:I'm designing and testing a LED replacement for the gear indicator.




 


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SniperX

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@robmack wrote:I'm designing and testing a LED replacement for the gear indicator.



Thats cool....let me know when you finish them.


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Andrew2

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Sorry guys, I didn't see this thread before I started my other one. So what is that one withe the round pins off of.


  This is the same as the dash that I was given but is different to mine.
Mine on the left and the new one on the right.


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92KK 84WW Olaf

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@SniperX wrote:Ok, so I need a cluster for a 1985K100RT then...where is the best place to look for a completely wokring one?
Mine works....to a fasion. It has such a warped face plate the plate pushed the speedo needle off, and the lcd for gear selection has been sunburned for years. his all happened before I got it, I put a cloth over the cluster when I park in the sun.

In 85 the 4/7 litre K100RT and RS clusters are more or less the same.

I swapped my RT cluster for an RS one and it was a straight swap.

The mounting plate came with the RS one and when I went to put it on the RT id didn't fit. Close check, same part no cast into both but clearly different parts. The reason I was changing the mounting was the RS one came with the mounting attached and it was in much better condition. A hacksaw resolved the issue, cut edges coted and sealed and its been fine since.

If you box clever and your existing cluster has a good clock display you could get one with this not working at a better price and swap it over. Interestingly my K1100LT has led bulbs by the PO in ALL of the display including the charge light but needs 2500-3000 rpm to get it charging but all works perfectly.


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 83,050 miles
    

charlie99

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pretty simple to just change the odometer mechanism across the instruments

just a few screws ..

whilst in there change all  the globes ...just so you don't have to go back in there anytime soon


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Andrew2

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You might be right there.
  The annoying thing with mine is it has all new "cogs" in there. When it was fixed by the previous owner they put the spring on the trip meter knob on the outside for some reason so I pulled it apart and fixed that. I checked that everything was turning ok before putting it back together and then the odo worked for 32 kms at last weeks Koffee get together before it stopped again only to start up a bit later for another 19 kms before stopping all together. I'm wondering if they haven't replaced all the cogs and 1 has a damaged spline and occasionally it catches on it and stops until a bump in the road starts it again. I'll find out later this week when I strip it down again.


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Laitch

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@Andrew2 wrote: I'll find out later this week when I strip it down again.
It looks to me like the knob assembly is incorrect. The spring should be inside the case. I'd review the assembly using the fifth diagram at this site.

Note how the knob in the site's photo of an instrument cluster is adjacent to the case instead of being offset by the spring like yours. The cog in the knob assembly isn't engaging correctly.


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Andrew2

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Hey Laitch, i've already been in and put the spring insde the case as in the diagrams. Not sure why they put it on the outside. The person i bought the bike off put new gears in but im thinking they assembled it wrong or didn't replace all of them so I'll pull it apart anyway for a look. I'll try to remember to photograph it as i go and post it up for future reference. I'll check that page out first.

  Cheers
  Andrew


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Andrew2

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So I stripped it back down for the second time. All the new gears were fine with no apparent signs of damage so I deoxited all the connections ( thanks Waz ) and put it back together. I also cleaned the connection behind the right hand side cover where it goes to the rear bevel drive so the test will come tomorrow.


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charlie99

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yeah often corrosion on the speed sensor to loom connections

best option is to clean (file the pins ) and clean the socket  + recrimp the socket so that it clamps the pins correctly

there are similar issues at the instruments connections

good luck


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
    

Andrew2

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Thanks Charlie, I'll let everyone know if cleaning them helped at all. It certainly made a difference to my temp gauge. When I first got it the gauge it started at the 3/4 mark and went up from there.


  It then started from half way and today after cleaning and using Deoxit at the connections at the front of the motor it's starting from here.


  Getting closer but not quite there yet Very Happy.

  Cheers
  Andrew


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Andrew2

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Well that didn't work . I got 20.5 kms before both the trip meter and odometer stopped again.  There's a theme here. It always stops between 20 and 35 kms with the occasional restart for another 20 odd kms. Any other suggestions?.


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robmack

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I'm going to take a stab at this.  If it isn't a mechanical flaw, then it must be electrical.  Have you gone so far as to inspect and clean the odometer driver card connections?

There are two circuit cards inside the OEM cluster associated with distance functions - one for driving the speedometer stepper motor and one for driving the odometer stepper.  It is possible that those connections need attention.

Check out my posting on OEM circuits to get an idea of the boards to which I'm referring. It's in the "Speedometer and Odometer" section.



Last edited by robmack on Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:23 pm; edited 1 time in total


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Andrew2

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Hi Rob,
   yes I cleaned those connections with deoxit red then recoated with the gold. I cleaned all the connections I could find when I pulled it apart.
   Is that the ones you're referring too?. Bottom left on the circuit board.


I cleaned the 4 pin connection at the top and the 3 pin at the bottom of the photo.



 Plus I cleaned all the pins on the 2 plugs that go into the back of the main housing both mail and female.



  Cheers
  Andrew


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Inge K.

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The first picture shows the PCB for the low fuel warning lamp,
this is also wrong in Robert's link.


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Andrew2

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@Inge K. wrote:The first picture shows the PCB for the low fuel warning lamp,
this is also wrong in Robert's link.
  It is Roberts picture Inge. I copied it from his link.


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Inge K.

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As I said "this is also wrong in Robert's link".


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Inge K.
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Inge K.

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The arrow points on the speedometer preamp PCB, could be a idea to check
the four contact pins to the left.


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Inge K.
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Inge K.

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Does the speedometer also stop to function together with the odo/trip meter?


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Andrew2

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I cleaned those 4 contact pins mate. I also cleaned the 3 pin connection above the arrow.I didn't clean that PCB though. Does it just pull out?. The speedo and tacho both work ok when the odo stops.


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Inge K.

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The contact at the arrow is a known problem source which also need to be checked.
The pad on top is there to add some more pressure and prevent vibration.




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Inge K.
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Inge K.

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@Andrew2 wrote:The speedo and tacho both work ok when the odo stops.

Then the problem is deeper into the instrument itself, could be the PCB directly under
the contact in post 27, the stepper motor or the connections between them
(wires with soldered ends, so it isn't that likely).


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Andrew2

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Looks like I'll have to dismantle it again. I have this spare instrument cluster but with the different pins on the back. Mine on the left,spare on the right.



  Could I possibly swap some bits out of the spare to test. I was thinking of swapping the whole trip/odo mechanism.


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Inge K.

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@Andrew2 wrote:   Could I possibly swap some bits out of the spare to test. I was thinking of swapping the whole trip/odo mechanism.

Don't see any problem with swapping parts.....but it won't help to change the
odo/trip mechanism if the problem is the PCB/stepper motor.....unless it's the
---------"------------ that is getting jammed after X kilometers. (less likely)

Easiest solution would be to change the complete speedometer unit.....
after an adjustement on the odometer, if neceserry.


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Inge K.
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Andrew2

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@Inge K. wrote:
@Andrew2 wrote:   Could I possibly swap some bits out of the spare to test. I was thinking of swapping the whole trip/odo mechanism.

unless it's the---------"------------ that is getting jammed after X kilometers. (less likely)

  Not sure what you mean Inge???.

  I'm actually trying to source a spare cluster so that I can at least say it's not that. My mate has 5 K's and a bucket load of spares but no instrument cluster  Sad. I'm wondering if they've put something back together wrong when they replaced the gears. The small gear was definitely broken which is why it didn't work in the first place. 

 I'll work it out eventually or I'll have the lowest kms KRS around in a few years Very Happy Very Happy


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charlie99

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mines been working and not working for more than 2 years Andrew

always another gear strips itself ...I should have replaced the whole set at the same time , as I know the connections are good

I better bite the bullet and order a set from spain I think ...only 25 euros for the lot ...+freight   maybe a envelope ?

maybe  February and after the Christmas expenses have depleted ?
recon iv missed at least 20,000 - 30,000 ks of logged distance so far ...my memory is poor but new front tyres remind me that its been at least 20,000 and more


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
    

Andrew2

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@charlie99 wrote:mines been working and not working for more than 2 years Andrew

always another gear strips itself ...I should have replaced the whole set at the same time , as I know the connections are good

I better bite the bullet and order a set from spain I think ...only 25 euros for the lot ...+freight   maybe a envelope ?

maybe  February and after the Christmas expenses have depleted ?
recon iv missed at least 20,000 - 30,000 ks of logged distance so far ...my memory is poor but new front tyres remind me that its been at least 20,000 and more
 . Yeah it's just one of those niggly things that you want to fix and the harder it is to find the more you want to fix it Very Happy . It doesn't stop you riding it just becomes annoying. It won't beat me......maybe
  So tomorrows job is...........taking the dash apart Very Happy. I'm getting good at it now


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Inge K.

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Is the spare instrument cluster you have complete?


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Inge K.
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MartinW

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When changing gears don't apply lubricant to them. Application of lubricants actually speeds up the conversion process from plastic to cheese. I got this information of Otto Instruments Brisbane when I bought a set of gears.
Regards Martin.

    

Andrew2

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Thanks Martin, the gears have already been changed and no lubricant was applied.


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Andrew2

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@Inge K. wrote:Is the spare instrument cluster you have complete?
Yes it is. The only difference I can see without dismantling it is the round pins on the two external connections on the back whereas mine has the square ones as in the photo I posted above. The spare has only 13,000 kms on the clock.It looks like new. It was sent to me to replace my broken one but they obviously didn't realize the external connections were different.


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Inge K.

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Then you can (as mentioned in post #30) swap the speedometer module.

Or easier, swap the complete unit after changing the rear cover.
It doesn't look that the oblong and round pins is that much different,
and the contact blades in the female part of the contact have enough
flexing ability.


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robmack

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@Inge K. wrote:The first picture shows the PCB for the low fuel warning lamp,
this is also wrong in Robert's link.
Yeah, I copied the wrong photo link from Dieter's page. I've corrected that error and linked in the correct picture I believe.


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Inge K.

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While you're in cleaning mode:
The text (and wiring diagram) describes the very early low fuel level warning,
but the photo is of a late version PCB.


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Inge K.
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robmack

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Dug up a line-drawing from the Web which I hope is correct and replaced Deiter's photo link. I don't have access to a pre-85 instrument cluster so can't confirm the accuracy but it appears correct on first glance. I have access to a post-85 cluster and will try to reverse-engineer the late model fuel level board and create a schematic. Thanks for the feedback Inge; I can't improve the information I produce without it.


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Inge K.

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I recognize the drawing, it's from a service bulletin when the second generation PCB was released.

If you rather want a photo (which also is from Dieter's page), you find it here:
http://www.k100-forum.com/t4576-fuel-sender-dead-light#48213


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Have we accomplished half of what we dreamt we would? There may still be time.
    

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