BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down   The Good, The Bad, and the Questions... Empty The Good, The Bad, and the Questions... on Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:52 pm

MikeyBoy

MikeyBoy
active member
active member
First of all, thanks to everyone who has guided me this week. Today I pulled the trigger and bought (adopted?) a 1985 k100rt with 60,000 miles. The seller and I took her to a great BMW mechanic (George in northern Virginia) and he gave her a once over. Note that the bike has been sitting in cold storage for about 10 years, ridden a few times per year to keep fluids running [4000 miles in past 10 years].
Questions in no specific order:
-the odometer recently stopped working around 59,000 miles. I know that's true from service records. Not a huge deal and I'll research on the forum about options to fix that. Let it go or fix it?
-oil starting to seep/weep from rear main seal. Not dripping yet. Just gonna clean her off and ride her for a few weeks to judge the extent of leakage. How long have you ridden with a leaking rear main seal?
-as far as I know the splines have never been lubed. Gonna do the rear spline first and other 2 later OK?. When riding she shifted smooth up and down at all speeds so I'm not too worried. Fingers crossed rear spline is not too worn!
-rear tire is not very worn but is 13 years old [since seller got a new bike and hasn't ridden this one much]. No visible damage/rot. I think I'll go ahead and put a new tire on soon just to be safe. Or ride for a while even though 13 years old?


Thanks again all. I look forward to being a member of this excellent forum for years to come!

    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Congratulations on becoming a brick owner!

To answer your questions.  First, the odometer is nice to have to keep track of mileage for maintenance intervals, but for me, the tripmeter is critical to monitoring fuel usage.  I get between 180 and 200 miles between fillups.

The weeping at the rear of the engine is probably the o-ring at the clutch hub.  It is good to repair it, but the oil doesn't really get to the clutch to cause problems unless it is leaking a lot.  Mostly it will just be a nuisance drip. It's an all day job to change it.

I definitely would want to look at the splines on the final drive and shaft and lube them.  It will be good to know what you have there.  Spline failure can totally ruin your day.  You might want to look into an AAA RV Plus policy.  It will provide 200 miles of towing if you have a breakdown. 

Replace the tires ASAP.  Tire failure can be very painful if not fatal.  If you are on a tight budget, see if you can find Shinko Tourmasters.  They are excellent tires at a very reasonable price.  You can save money on mounting them by taking the wheel to the dealer so you don't have to pay for removal and reinstallation.  Take the rear wheel in when you remove it to do the splines.

Additionally, plan on doing a brake system flush to get the old fluid out as well as a coolant change.  Old coolant has lost it's anti-corrosion properties and will eat your radiator.  Check for mineral deposits in the cooling system that may require a flush.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
welcome aboard
1985 usually has 16 spline rear bevel box drive shaft , I recon they are the best for lasting the distance
and lubricating is not hard to do , use a high content molibdimum disulphide lubricant (usually listed as cv joint lube )

as .75 has said the other stuff just requires time , a bit of planning and patience

they really are meccano for big kids , if you have the right tools to start with , don't cheapskate on allen keys , get your self a good set of maybe 3/8 drive allen key adaptors in  5 , 6 and 8 mm types , to fit the most common bolts in the bike  6,8,10 mm bolts (others can usually be handled with unbrako type allen key sets )


and please get some modern tyres , it will transform your thoughts about the brick and handling , many recommendations abound

cheers from down under


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OThe Good, The Bad, and the Questions... Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
While I agree with Charlie about tools, I suspect he may not agree with my source.  I have had really good luck with Harbor Freight tools.  I have bought their torque wrenches on sale for $12 each.  They have a nice ball end allen wrench kit with a handle that goes for under $10.  They fit well and hold up to a lot of use. 

A set of metric combination wrenches for the shop and a 1/4" set of metric sockets is nice to carry in the tail cowl.

These will cover about 90% of the jobs on a K bike.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

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