BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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timz10000

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My 85 k100 came to me with a naked (round) headlight and an aftermarket fairing kind of like an r90 one.

The headlight and fairing are only attached by side bolts attached to the plastic assembly connected to the top of the forks, and my light and fairing bounce around and rattle a ton.

In looking at the Max BMW microfiche, it looks like there's an "adjusting screw" and "joint sleeve" (see 3 and 4 in image) - is this what I need? Can I get those parts and do they seat in the back of the headlight (there's a receptacle place to attach something there) and in the front of the plastic sub-assembly behind it? I'm thinking if I can anchor the headlight in a 3rd spot it'll be steady but not sure how this works.


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1985 K100
    

duck

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The factory round headlight has a nylon socket that the ball on the end of the adjuster fits into.



Last edited by duck on Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:15 am; edited 1 time in total


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
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Laitch

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@timz10000 wrote:The headlight and fairing are only attached by side bolts attached to the plastic assembly connected to the top of the forks, and my light and fairing bounce around and rattle a ton.
I'm thinking if I can anchor the headlight in a 3rd spot it'll be steady but not sure how this works.
Posting some photos here of your bike's fairing and headlight setup could be helpful. Usually fairings have handlebar, fork tube and/or fork brace mounts for stability. If your setup for fairing and headlight are jiggling because they are mounted together and pivoting on two bolts but aren't stabilized by an additional connection to the handlebar and/or forks, the addition of an adjuster is unlikely to help stabilize them.

The joint sleeve probably works in conjunction with oem cockpit covers, trim units and fairings that house the headlight on K100 bikes. The headlights themselves are stabilized by their covers or fairings.


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1995 K75T 68,000 miles
    

timz10000

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Here are photos - you can see the whole shebang is being held by just one bolt on the left and on the right side.

This being the case - any suggestions about how to anchor this all?

I have a k100rs parts bike but I suspect the RS fairing is so different that none of the supports would help.

Should I figure out some way to make a connection like a bolt or piece of metal from the bottom of the fairing up to the plastic housing on the forks? I see there are also aftermarket headlight brackets from the forks, but I'm not sure that would be an improvement.

I'm also open to buying a different similar fairing if there's one that attaches well and isn't too expensive.

Any suggestions welcome Smile




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Laitch

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@timz10000 wrote:Should I figure out some way to make a connection like a bolt or piece of metal from the bottom of the fairing up to the plastic housing on the forks?

I'm also open to buying a different similar fairing if there's one that attaches well and isn't too expensive.
You could connect from the bottom of the fairing to the upper fork tubes using clamps on the tubes connected with round rod or flat bar struts to the fairing. Holes through the fairing for fastening the struts would need rubber grommets inserted in them to prevent cracking of the fairing by vibration. There will be much less vibration with an assembly anchored that way, but some vibration might still occur. That would be an interesting project.

What is your budget line for a replacement? Do you want it to have integral turn indicators?


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1995 K75T 68,000 miles
    

timz10000

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@Laitch wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:Should I figure out some way to make a connection like a bolt or piece of metal from the bottom of the fairing up to the plastic housing on the forks?

I'm also open to buying a different similar fairing if there's one that attaches well and isn't too expensive.
You could connect from the bottom of the fairing to the upper fork tubes using clamps on the tubes connected with round rod or flat bar struts to the fairing. Holes through the fairing for fastening the struts would need rubber grommets inserted in them to prevent cracking of the fairing by vibration. There will be much less vibration with an assembly anchored that way, but some vibration might still occur. That would be an interesting project.

What is your budget line for a replacement? Do you want it to have integral turn indicators?

Oh, I'd hope to keep it under $100. The turn indicators I have work fine if they'd fit with a replacement.

I'll take a good gander to see about the idea you mentioned - that could work (the fairing I have is all dinged up so I don't mind messing with it)


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1985 K100
    

timz10000

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@timz10000 wrote:
@Laitch wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:Should I figure out some way to make a connection like a bolt or piece of metal from the bottom of the fairing up to the plastic housing on the forks?

I'm also open to buying a different similar fairing if there's one that attaches well and isn't too expensive.
You could connect from the bottom of the fairing to the upper fork tubes using clamps on the tubes connected with round rod or flat bar struts to the fairing. Holes through the fairing for fastening the struts would need rubber grommets inserted in them to prevent cracking of the fairing by vibration. There will be much less vibration with an assembly anchored that way, but some vibration might still occur. That would be an interesting project.



What is your budget line for a replacement? Do you want it to have integral turn indicators?

Oh, I'd hope to keep it under $100. The turn indicators I have work fine if they'd fit with a replacement.

I'll take a good gander to see about the idea you mentioned - that could work (the fairing I have is all dinged up so I don't mind messing with it)
BTW what kind of clamps would be good for this?


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1985 K100
    

timz10000

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@timz10000 wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:
@Laitch wrote:
You could connect from the bottom of the fairing to the upper fork tubes using clamps on the tubes connected with round rod or flat bar struts to the fairing. Holes through the fairing for fastening the struts would need rubber grommets inserted in them to prevent cracking of the fairing by vibration. There will be much less vibration with an assembly anchored that way, but some vibration might still occur. That would be an interesting project.



What is your budget line for a replacement? Do you want it to have integral turn indicators?

Oh, I'd hope to keep it under $100. The turn indicators I have work fine if they'd fit with a replacement.

I'll take a good gander to see about the idea you mentioned - that could work (the fairing I have is all dinged up so I don't mind messing with it)
BTW what kind of clamps would be good for this?
One final question (ain't I full of 'em?) - would I still want to get the bottom-of-the-headlight adjuster do you think? Or would shoring up the fairing to the fork tubes hold the headlinght in place? The headlight is somewhat firmly pressed against the headlight opening in the fairing


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1985 K100
    

Laitch

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@timz10000 wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:BTW what kind of clamps would be good for this?
One final question (ain't I full of 'em?) - would I still want to get the bottom-of-the-headlight adjuster do you think? Or would shoring up the fairing to the fork tubes hold the headlight in place? The headlight is somewhat firmly pressed against the headlight opening in the fairing
Motorcycle fairing clamps might be adaptable for your use. Do you understand how an adjuster would work with your current assembly? I don't. If it were my bike, I wouldn't create a modification that prevented headlight aiming.

Your bike seems to have part of an OEM headlight/instrument mounting system. Do you have the rest of those components?


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1995 K75T 68,000 miles
    

timz10000

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@Laitch wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:
@timz10000 wrote:BTW what kind of clamps would be good for this?
One final question (ain't I full of 'em?) - would I still want to get the bottom-of-the-headlight adjuster do you think? Or would shoring up the fairing to the fork tubes hold the headlight in place? The headlight is somewhat firmly pressed against the headlight opening in the fairing
Motorcycle fairing clamps might be adaptable for your use. Do you understand how an adjuster would work with your current assembly? I don't. If it were my bike, I wouldn't create a modification that prevented headlight aiming.

Your bike seems to have part of an OEM headlight/instrument mounting system. Do you have the rest of those components?
No, I just have the sort of base plate part (#1 above) and the headlight itself.


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Gaz

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Why don't you try to fabricate a small bracket mounted to each of the lower 6mm bolts that hold the headlight mount plastic section to the triple clamps and connect that to the fairing near its lower edge.

Hopefully this rough picture gives you an idea of what I mean. Use one bracket off each of the lower bolts or better still make a bracket wide enough to pick up both of those bolts and you might only need one attachment point near the lower fairing edge as you will have created a triangle section.



Cheers


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95 K1100LT 0232224; 90 K75 6427509; 87 R80G/S PD 6292136
    

timz10000

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@Gaz wrote:Why don't you try to fabricate a small bracket mounted to each of the lower 6mm bolts that hold the headlight mount plastic section to the triple clamps and connect that to the fairing near its lower edge.

Hopefully this rough picture gives you an idea of what I mean. Use one bracket off each of the lower bolts or better still make a bracket wide enough to pick up both of those bolts and you might only need one attachment point near the lower fairing edge as you will have created a triangle section.



Cheers

Awesome - I actually bought a piece of sheet aluminum yesterday to do that exact thing. There are two screws that go into the plastic piece on the right, I'm going to make a template out of card stock and then trace it and cut it out of aluminum. I have little bolts and rubber bushings for the plastic connection to the housing (it's like your drawing but actually there's a horizontal shelf on the bottom of the fairing so I think I'll just go straight to that and bolt vertically to it).


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