BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down   Torquing the motor mount bolts and nuts Empty Torquing the motor mount bolts and nuts on Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:31 pm

SniperX

SniperX
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Silver member
Can someone walk me thru it? I'm sure mine are getting lose or at least it seems so...

    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
If the engine's been out, rear first to centre the engine in the frame and then the front. The front will probably have a gap on at least one side and will need shimming - don't just close the gap up by heaving it up tight. If the engine hasn't been out then it should be already shimmed and safe to pull up tight in any order.

I think it was either RickG or TWB I got that information from; one of them will be along to correct me if I've remembered it wrong!


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'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

SniperX

SniperX
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Silver member
Motor hasn't been out but it's never been retorqued since new

    

Laitch

Laitch
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Life time member
@SniperX wrote:Motor hasn't been out but it's never been retorqued since new
If an official BMW service schedule is believable, checking the torque of the frame to driveline bolts then tightening them up to spec if necessary is done at 12,000 mile intervals.
affraid
As Dai has indicated, checking of the frame to engine gaps and frame/intermediate flange gaps isn't listed as part of the maintenance process in these references.
cheers
If the BMW manual available in this site's Tech section is believable, the correct torque values and tightening sequences for 8V models up to manufacture date 08/1988 is found on page 11-97. According to Clymer's brief description, later models—including 16V models—follow the same procedure and torque values.



Last edited by Laitch on Wed Sep 26, 2018 4:45 am; edited 1 time in total


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1995 K75T 68,000 miles
Torquing the motor mount bolts and nuts Usa-lo10
    

nobbylon

nobbylon
Silver member
Silver member
Maybe that’s where the 100’s vibes come from! No one ever bothers!


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R1100GS Feb 1995
K100RS July 1989
R90s June 1975
R75/6 Feb 1976
F650GD May 2001
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
But if you are unsure, also check the shimming and mounting instructions. I have a feeling there are some differences between faired and unfaired models. I have a Clymer and it makes reference to this somewhere. As Dai said do not use bolt to close any gaps, you must use shims. If you don't use the shims correctly you can induce a stress in the frame with vibration and possible alignment issues.


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 91,850 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,495 miles Damn K Pox
    

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:But if you are unsure, also check the shimming and mounting instructions. I have a feeling there are some differences between faired and unfaired models.
There are differences; your feelings are not betraying you, Olaf. cheers In the BMW repair manual to which I've referred, distinctions are clearly made between faired and unfaired models with bridge-mounted or plug-mounted tanks. Personally, I'd go along with BMW and just tighten where needed unless the bike had been dropped hard or frequently. If frequently were the case though, I'd probably sell it, or have it exorcised. Smile


__________________________________________________
1995 K75T 68,000 miles
Torquing the motor mount bolts and nuts Usa-lo10
    

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