Gday One and All

I currently have a 1985 K100 RT of which I am hoping to restore to something of its former glory.
Yet to restore a bike, however I am willing to learn

Although only having had two previous owners it has been dropped and so has a bit of cosmetic damage.

It currently has a problem that maybe someone could point me in the right direction.
When accelerating from 60 km/hr and above it is suddenly losing power.

It has only just started doing this, although I have not ridden it for about 6 or 7 months and has been sitting idle.
I was thinking maybe fuel filter, but having little knowledge of a pressurised injected system, there maybe some other issue.

Thanks for your help and thanks for allowing me to become part of this forum !!

Replacing the fuel filter is a good thing to do on any "new-to-me" bike that you  purchase.

The fuel filter is inside the tank on Ks. Open the gas cap and remove the four screws around the perimeter that hold it into the tank.  If it has not been removed in a while then corrosion may have built up in the threads.  What I always do in this situation is clean out the tops of the screw heads with a pin or something.  Then use a good quality/condition Phillips driver with lots of downward pressure to break the threads loose.

Once you have the gas cap off you will see the fuel filter in the left rear of the tank.  Remove the hose clamp at the front of the short hose on the front of the fuel filter.  You can then pull it up and outside of the tank to remove the rear hose.

Try blowing through it in the direction of the arrow (towards the small hose.) You should be able to blow through it pretty easily.

BMW fuel filters are overpriced so buy a generic metal one that's rated for pressurized fuel systems. In the US I use Napa 3032 fuel filters.

I don't know what good aftermarket OZ ones are available but I'm sure one of our members from down there will pipe in here with a recommendation.

First thing to do with your new Brick is to thoroughly inspect inside the fuel tank. Sitting with ethanol laced fuel can lead to damage of the hoses and the fuel pump damper. Replace the filter and check all internal fuel lines, replace the lines if suspect, i.e. if the lines are hard or too soft or black comes off on your fingers when wiped. Lines in the tank must be rated for EFI and be submersible rated SAE 30 R10. Hose clips should be of the non worm drive type if possible. Check that the damper is not deteriorating. Check for water pooling in the bottom of the tank and clean and empty the tank if any is found. Avoid ethanol based fuels and it is a good idea to run a couple of bottles of Techron or Liquid Moly fuel cleaner through the bike. Running the bike with the cleaner and non ethanol fuels will often sort out the bad running. Check the "Z" breather hose and check the throttle body couplings and vacuum hose for vacuum leaks. Later on check the valve clearances and check the condition of the spark plugs.
Regards Martin.

welcome aboard


have fun with the k

Welcome to the forum K. The advise already flows and I learned a bit about fuel lines myself. Nice

Welcome along K-man.

Good luck with the resto - plenty of advice hereabouts on just about every issue you may encounter. Usual top tip applies - take lots of photos before you dismantle anything and, if it is going to be a longer term project, bag and tag all the bits you remove . As you take the bike apart, it will seem obvious at the time how it will all go back together again...just wait a week or more and suddenly it may not seem quite so obvious - referring back to the pics you took, usually, then makes it all make sense again.

Your problem definitely sounds fuel related - start with the obvious before diving into the fuel injectors etc. How much fuel do you have in the tank? Sounds silly, but with the pick up at the front of the tank, if you accelerate when going uphill with a low fuel level, the fuel will all rush to the back of the tank and the bike will splutter and lose power (I've encountered this issue a few times when accelerating to overtake traffic as it slows on an up hill - not the time you want to be losing power!). Also, as Martin says, check you don't have water pooling in the bottom of the tank - it doesn't burn very well.

Enjoy

Welcome, and thank you for planning to restore it.

Thanks for the great responses fellas. Looks like the fuel, filter and lines are the first cab off the rank. It's amazing how when there is something techo that you dont know anything about (like the injection system) you tend to think that must be the issue 😁.
I will keep you all posted, thanks again.

WelKome K-man!  I'm pretty much convinced that a 1985 K100RT is many people's gateway drug to a full blown case of Kpox (if you don't currently understand any of the preceding jargon, you soon will).  

If you haven't found it yet, go to the Portal and click on the link 'You just bought a K100...'  There is so much there to learn and familiarize yourself with.  I rode my K for a full season last year, then tore it right down last winter and cleaned, replaced, painted and adjusted everything.  It was the best thing ever.  I learned so much about these bikes and also a huge amount from everyone here on this forum.  My lovely wife was quite amazed that I was able to reassemble all the pieces back into a completely safe and fully operating motorcycle.  This is more of a testament to the design of the K and the resources that are available to us than anything on my part.

I would have to say that my K100 is unlike any other bike I have owned or ridden in the past.  It was a very happy accident that I ended up with mine and I have developed a very intense brand and model loyalty because of it.  I'm now on the hunt for another to keep the '85 company over the long Canadian winters....

Cheers, Woodie