Hi All,

I can pull on my front brake lever a bit before the brakes are applied.

I do not mind it on the rear brake, but I prefer less free travel on the front.

What is the normal amount of travel on the front brake lever before it feels firm.

If I use one finger to pull the lever, I get 3mm between the lever and its housing.

Fairly firm pressure gives me a 4mm gap.

My first K100 was the same. 

My system has been overhauled with a new master cylinder  ( 13mm ) , braided lines, new fluid, new pads etc

 and I have bled it several times.

I wander around the local bike shop now and again, and I have noticed some new bikes, even new ones,  have 

more travel on the brake lever than others.

Questions:

1. My new brake lever have an adjustment screw ,  If I use it to reduce the lever travel, I could get the brakes to 

  bind when the fluid cannot get back to the reservoir, so why the adjuster ?



2. Is my set up as it should be, or given the number of times I have bled the system,

could I still have air in it somewhere. I have tried all the usual "tricks " 



3. Is there a possibility the ABS pumps are hiding something. I bleed the pump first , then the calipers.



4. Is there a way to force the ABS pumps to operate without riding the bike . I do not fancy a low speed 

jaunt across a gravel path to get it to kick in, I recently dropped the bike whilst stationary, 

do not want to do it again.

Bob

Thanks for any replies

Bob

audibob wrote:My new brake lever have an adjustment screw ,  If I use it to reduce the lever travel, I could get the brakes to bind when the fluid cannot get back to the reservoir, so why the adjuster ?

Please post a photo of this lever. Did it come with adjustment instructions?

I think he's referring to this one that has a set screw in it.

Duck.

That is the lever I have.

Could the set screw be designed to be replaced if worn ?

There is no movement on the piston when the lever is fitted, it is a dead fit.

I presume on the k1100, the adjustment allows the position of the lever to be changed, without any action on 

the piston.

Bob

audibob wrote:I presume on the k1100, the adjustment allows the position of the lever to be changed, without any action on the piston.

There is a description of the lever adjustment procedure in this post and the posts following it.

audibob wrote:Duck.

That is the lever I have.

Could the set screw be designed to be replaced if worn ?

There is no movement on the piston when the lever is fitted, it is a dead fit.

I presume on the k1100, the adjustment allows the position of the lever to be changed, without any action on 

the piston.

Bob

I've adjusted that screw on my bikes before - but never very far in, just enough to get a better bite with less travel of the lever.

You're right. On the 4V bikes the adjustment is built into the middle of the lever and doesn't impact the lever interaction with the piston.  (I really hate the 4V adjustable levers.  I retrofited the old fixed version on my 94 K1100RS and much prefer it that way.)

Thanks Duck.

I presume the set screw is for adjustment, otherwise the lever casting would be shaped so it sits against 

the piston in its resting position.

But, it would take huge mileages to wear the set screw contact surface, even if you forgot to lubricate

it.

The link that Laitch posted gave me the impression that the k1100 has an adjustment to alter the position

on the piston, as well as being able to alter the lever starting position.

I know that too much adjustment could lock the brakes on..

I would prefer to find a tiny amount of air in the system, but given the number of times I have bled it,

I am not hopeful, unless I can force the abs pumps to kick in , then I will bleed it again and see.

If that fails, I will try a very small adjustment on the set screw

Brake lever  " travel"  is very subjective . 

Bob

Where a lot of air can get trapped is in the "hump" in the ABS system that is between the modulator and the front calipers.

When I installed front SS lines on my K1100RS I took the calipers off and hung them by string from the garage rafters so that the air in the hump could rise to the bleed screws.

If you're just bleeding to flush the old fluid out with new fluid that shouldn't be necessary though.

When we had a meetup for breakfast at the A46 cafe I had a try of everyone else's brake lever as I always thought there was surely something wrong with my system, all that travel and sod all braking.. But they were all the same! I blame the master cylinder, the lever is short and the piston too small.. But there's no way to change it so I just accept it now.

I might try that Duck..

Snod,

I seem to remember trying someones clutch , but not the brake lever .

Does everyone who looks at bikes in the dealers try the brake and clutch levers .

or am I the only one..


bob

Count me in... 

audibob wrote:Does everyone who looks at bikes in the dealers try the brake and clutch levers .
bob

What, and not also twist the throttle and make playing card in the spokes noises with your lips like when riding your childhood bicycle?!

I Should have fitted a playing card on the back wheel  to drown out my old FD bearing drone....

I tried to reduce the lever free travel by screwing the adjuster set screw in slightly, but I found that the braking 

action became a little notchy.

The set screw was backed off, so just coming into contact with the piston in its resting position,

and the brake action was smooth again.

I have decided to accept the lever travel, whether I still have a tiny bit of air in the system,

or this is how it is.

The  brakes are very smooth and sharp, so I am happy with that.

Bob