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1Back to top Go down    K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 6:51 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I am doing the prep. in advance of measuring valve lash on my 1996 K1100LT.  I removed a lot of fasteners on the left lower fairing and arrived at the point where one (apparently) must remove the tip-over bar to allow the fairing bit to come off.  The plastic cover on the upper bar end wouldn't budge, and I now have second thoughts as to how the bar itself is removed.  Considering my options, the thought occurs to me that there may be enough wiggle room between the valve cover and the fairing lower to allow it to be removed with the fairing lower in place.  Is this true?  That would be great, as the fairing is probably the biggest headache in checking the valves.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

2Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:17 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
The plastic cap just pulls out.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

3Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:05 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator

I recall you just prise under the plastic cap (#10) over the nut and threaded rubber mount and out she comes. Perhaps a PO has glued it...?


__________________________________________________

1987 K100RS, '93 Framed K11/K12 engine 'Big Block', '09 K1300GT, '07 K1200R, '95 R100 Mystic & '77 R75/7.

    

4Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:09 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
The plastic cap just fills the hole in the tube. The nut is farther in and requires a short ratchet extension.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

5Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:35 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I think I'll put some heat on the steel tomorrow.  Maybe the cap will then release it's death grip.
Has anyone pulled the valve cover with the left fairing lower in place?  Or, will I be the first to prove/disprove that possibility?



Last edited by brickrider2 on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:58 pm; edited 1 time in total


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

6Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:49 pm

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
@brickrider2 wrote:I think I'll put some heat on the steel tomorrow.  Maybe the cap will then release it's death grip.
Has anyone putted the valve cover with the left fairing lower in place?  Or, will I be the first to prove/disprove that possibility?
I didn't try on my K1100 but the K100 and K75 all I did was put something down so as not to scratch the panel then let it dangle on the bar.


__________________________________________________
"Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."  from Mencken's 1919 Prejudices

Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

7Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:52 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
I'd use some pliers on it and twist it back and forth a little.  There's "only" friction holding in in there.

And you might want to spray the cap down with silicone or some other lube before putting it back in so it's easier to get out next time.

And you don't need to get that top nut in the tube on super tight when you put things back together.  The bolt that holds it is mounted in rubber and costs $44 to replace if you tear the rubber.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

8Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 12:02 am

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
"The bolt that holds it is mounted in rubber and costs $44 to replace if you tear the rubber."
That is consistent with the pricing scheme for the plastic plug.  That small bit of design genius costs $15. 


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

9Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:35 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
DONT put heat on that cap. Its only a friction fit.

The mounting as said is in rubber and its a good way in depending on whether you have the short bar or the longer police one.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

10Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:55 am

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
If it won't pull out, then the problem is that it's being held in by rust. WD40 or similar may help (it didn't for me) and I ended up using a mallet and screwdriver to drive it out tiny bit by tiny bit working round the edges. Of course, it then wouldn't stay in because the rust had distorted it so badly. A new one wouldn't stay in for the same reason, even after I'd cleaned out most of the rust. Cue the glue, but the owner took the sensible decision to leave it off.

If the cap is rusted in, chances are you are going to have trouble with the recessed 13mm nut. You will need a 1/4" drive socket and extension bar to get at it as a 3/8" drive socket is just too wide. Soak it with (preferably) Kroil or WD40 and leave it, but expect the nut to sheer off the thread. Have a couple of spare rubber crashbar (tipover! I like that expression) mounts to hand before starting. Whatever happens, put the nut back on with a huge dollop of copaslip.


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

11Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:39 am

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Once I got the "gentlest of tipover" bars off, I would unload them on an unsuspecting eBay buyer.  My experience was that even in a gentle drop those useless rubber mounts break away and the bar then twists around and takes a chunk out of the lower fairing adding a bunch of cost and repair hassle to an otherwise low damage situation.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

12Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:01 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
My name for them is "Parking Lot Bars."  They do an excellent job at speeds under 1 MPH.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

13Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:04 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
I knocked my parked K75RT over in the garage and the right side bar broke it's mounts and took a 5"x6" chunk out of the lower right fairing.  Along with the bar mounts that was the only damage.  Had it not been for the bar, all that would have happened was a scuffed brake lever and a scratch or two in the mirror.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

14Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:19 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
I've dropped K1100LTs several times and the parking lot bars did their job and saved the bike from damage - other than the bar itself getting scraped and the mirror getting knocked off.  No mounts broken.  They're also great for riding pegs.



When 2Vs go down on the right side the brake lever, due to leverage, frequently breaks the right peg plate.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

15Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:30 pm

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
@Dai wrote:If it won't pull out, then the problem is that it's being held in by rust. WD40 or similar may help (it didn't for me). . . If the cap is rusted in, chances are you are going to have trouble with the recessed 13mm nut. You will need a 1/4" drive socket and extension bar to get at it as a 3/8" drive socket is just too wide. Soak it with (preferably) Kroil or WD40 and leave it,
My favorite remedy for parts in this type of situation is a product like this.


__________________________________________________
1995 K75T 68,000 miles
    

16Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:18 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Regarding the brake ever and footpeg plate.  I have found that the saddle bags do a better job of protecting it than the "engine protection" bars.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

17Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 4:57 pm

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
I was trying to think of a frozen nuts joke but I can't be bothered... Razz


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

18Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:32 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator
@Dai wrote:I was trying to think of a frozen nuts joke but I can't be bothered... Razz


__________________________________________________

1987 K100RS, '93 Framed K11/K12 engine 'Big Block', '09 K1300GT, '07 K1200R, '95 R100 Mystic & '77 R75/7.

    

19Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:36 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator


__________________________________________________

1987 K100RS, '93 Framed K11/K12 engine 'Big Block', '09 K1300GT, '07 K1200R, '95 R100 Mystic & '77 R75/7.

    

20Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:14 pm

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

21Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:35 pm

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
Not for personal use, even in the State of California. Laughing


__________________________________________________
1995 K75T 68,000 miles
    

22Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:58 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I turned my Harbor Freight heat gun on the bar at the area surrounding the plastic plug.  The plug yielded and I pulled it free without destroying it; all is well.  cheers I had no problems with the removal of the protection (?) bar.  
I learned that not only is the upper fastener rubber mounted, but those on the underside are too.  That's a curious design.  The bar is to flex when stressed?  Shear at those mounting points? 
I'll certainly use care when I torque the fasteners again.  I can see how one could easily make an expensive mistake there.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

23Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:01 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
The bar mounts are designed to break away when the bike falls on the bar.  This is to prevent damage to the oil pan that could be caused by the bar's fasteners tearing chunks out of the pan in a fall down.

I guess they figured it was better to ride home with a busted up fairing than with a hole in the oil pan and no oil.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

24Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:59 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I rolled the K1100LT out into the sun and managed to measure the valves on the beast this afternoon. The result was not what I'd hoped for. I'll be pulling both exhaust and intake cams, as the no. 1 intake valves are at .10 mm; the no.4 exhaust valves are at .20 mm.  I found that every other valve is at the bare limit of the specs.  This is going to be an expensive service. MotoBins seems to have the best price for the required buckets at about US $25.  I suppose I'd best buy a lot of them, as I don't fancy doing another valve service anytime soon. With them all measuring tight or tight-ish, there seems to be no opportunity to swap them around from valve to valve.
This bike came out of a collection of about 30. Consequently, the previous owner rarely rode it.  It appears to me that, at 24 K miles, this is the very first valve service the engine has had. The spark plugs certainly look like they were never before changed or cleaned.  I'm surprised it ran as well as it does.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

25Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Jan 27, 2019 10:54 am

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Before you buy a bunch of valve buckets, pull the buckets that are in there now.  With any luck, several will be usable on other valves.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

26Back to top Go down    cam chain tension on Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:04 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I have finished the adjustment of the valves on my 1996 K1100LT.  Well, "finished" needs to be qualified.  The valve lash is set, but I cannot finish the project due to the cam chain tension.  It's too tight to permit refitting the intake cam sprocket.  I consulted the Haynes service manual and discovered there is a special tool for releasing the cam chain adjuster's tension. Of course, I don't have that  Crying or Very sad  Can anyone suggest a workaround? I've spent a good deal of time pushing here and there with a screwdriver without gaining any movement of the adjuster.  I'm in a real pickle now, with the valves exposed and no way to move the bike to the dealer for help.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

27Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:41 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
Did you take the bung out of the front middle of the timing cover and depress the cam chain tensioner prior to removing the cam sprockets?

The purpose of the BMW special tool is to keep the cam chain tensioner depressed while the cam chain is off.  If you don't then it springs up and you cannot press it back down because it is ratcheted.

Pretty sure you'll need to pull the timing cover and need the BMW special tool to keep the tensioner depressed when putting the timing cover back on.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

28Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:02 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
You can get around needing the BMW special tool to keep the cam chain tensioner depressed if you use a bit driver thusly:


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

29Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:09 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

30Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:31 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Crap!  When I installed the head and cam chain on my 16V K100 I didn't use any special tools, and I can't for the life of me recall going into the bung to mess with the tensioner.   I want to say that I installed the chain and the guides, and then put the compressed tensioner on and let it expand before installing the cover.  I'm pretty sure it wasn't that difficult that I would remember having a problem with it.

But, who knows?  It was two(or was it three?) years ago, and I'll be darned if I can recall what I had for breakfast yesterday.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

31Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 7:06 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
I seem to be making my fair share of mistakes during this valve adjustment project.  One major one that I now recognize was my belief that the K1100 engines are just smaller versions of the K1200 engine.  I watched the YouTube video of valve adjustment on the K1200 and assumed the chain adjuster mechanism was the same.  Big mistake.  Second big mistake was not dealing with locking the adjuster prior to pulling off the cam sprockets. Now I'm in uncharted waters.  
Questions: if I pull the front cover (of the cam chain) do I need to drain the engine oil first? If I pull the cover and remove the adjuster I assume I'll gain the chain slack I need to refit the cam sprocket; can the adjuster be manually ratcheted down so I can then bolt it back in place prior to refitting the cover? 
Having spent a lot of time peering into the little access hole in the front cover, I'm not sure what the nut-driver can do by way of getting me out of this mess.  I poked and prodded a lot with screw drivers and accomplished nothing. 
This adjuster is a mystery to me.  The Haynes drawing has not enlightened me a bit.  study It seems clear that there is no hydraulic system in it, so it's therefore a mechanical (spring loaded) thing?
I'd really prefer to skip buying the OEM tool, but thanks for the link, Duck!  I hope this is the first and last K1100LT valve adjustment I ever do.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

32Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 7:15 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
The bit driver thing won't help you now.  That was for others' future reference.

The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded, not hydraulic.

I don't think you need to drain the oil as the timing cover is above the oil level that you can see in the sight glass. There may be some that leftover drops of oil in there but you won't get a flood.

I have the BMW special tool but I will only loan it out for a $200 deposit.  Why so much? Because I want it back.  Over the years I've loaned out far too many tools that were never returned.  A deposit of twice the retail price is a good motivator for people to return things.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

33Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:07 pm

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
@Point-Seven-five wrote:Crap!  When I installed the head and cam chain on my 16V K100 I didn't use any special tools, and I can't for the life of me recall going into the bung to mess with the tensioner.   I want to say that I installed the chain and the guides, and then put the compressed tensioner on and let it expand before installing the cover.  I'm pretty sure it wasn't that difficult that I would remember having a problem with it.

But, who knows?  It was two(or was it three?) years ago, and I'll be darned if I can recall what I had for breakfast yesterday.
No NOT Crap if you had to replace the chain then the front cover was off so you can remove the tensioner and reinstall it after the chains are on the sprockets. If you don't remove the front cover then you do need to use the special tool or Duck's idea with the screw driver (which I tried with limited success).
I made a tool by getting a short bolt, grade 5 or 8.8 so it can be drilled, with the correct thread and drilled a small hole as far off centre as possible and put a pin through the hole. In effect I have the same tool but not quite as pretty.


__________________________________________________
"Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."  from Mencken's 1919 Prejudices

Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

34Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:14 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
That's it!  I did mine with the cover off.  Easy peasy, remove the two screws holding the tensioner, compress it, and reinstall it.  Put the cover back on.  Adds what, about 45 minutes to the job and saves $114 or thereabouts for special tools. 

Seems I've seen that home made tool someplace before.  The Clymer manual?

Now if I could remember what I just had for supper...


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

35Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:37 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
Okay, it's off with the cam chain cover today.  Since I've made a number of bad decisions in the course of this work, let me err on the side of extreme caution now and ask what is probably a silly question. Is it necessary to separate the Hall sensor unit from the front cover before I remove the latter?  It appears that I can just unbolt the cover (with the Hall unit attached) and swing it to the side in order to access the chain tensioner.  What could possibly go wrong?  


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

36Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:05 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
The slotted cup will not fit through the seal in the cam chain cover.  I know this because I am very familiar with someone who unsuccessfully tried to remove the cover with the cup in place.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1994 K75S
1992 K100RS

Past:
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

37Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:40 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:The slotted cup will not fit through the seal in the cam chain cover.  I know this because I am very familiar with someone who unsuccessfully tried to remove the cover with the cup in place.

+1

It's been a while since I took the front of an engine apart but if memory serves I think .75 is correct that the timing cup needs to be removed to get the big timing cover off.

There's also some special partial washers that you need to pay attention to when removing/installing the HES.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

38Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:53 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator
Also best to disconnect the two wires that go from the OP switch and H2O sensor below decks, and remember to have a fresh tube of Drei-Bond or favourite other anaerobic silicone sealant. I mark the HES so it'll go back right where you took it off. Sometimes the front crankshaft seal is disturbed and will leak from removal on. That's a whole 'nother story if it needs to be replaced: pill bottle to the rescue!


__________________________________________________

1987 K100RS, '93 Framed K11/K12 engine 'Big Block', '09 K1300GT, '07 K1200R, '95 R100 Mystic & '77 R75/7.

    

39Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:50 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
This is where my bumbling has gotten me to.  The HALL assembly is off and I'm able to see a "cup" with a large-ish hex head bolt in the center, with three small hex heads around the perimeter.  These three small ones are to be removed (only)? It seems the larger hex head, if moved, may also move the cam chain.  
The two wires that are metal clipped to the front cover have zero slack.  I don't see how pulling them from the clip will gain anything.
As for the two semi-circle washer from the hall unit,  I never noticed them when I removed the hall plate, but see them now where I laid the small screws.  I assume that they fit under the other (complete circle) washers. 
Gasket sealer I have.  It seems that's the only thing I'm confident of at this point. scratch


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1996 K1100LT
    

40Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:18 pm

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
You'll be OK what could possibly go wrong


__________________________________________________
"Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."  from Mencken's 1919 Prejudices

Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

41Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:23 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
HES T cover goes on a gasket? Does on my K100s, I bought a few of them when I was getting them.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

42Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:38 pm

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
True to my personal custom, my extra 45 minute job to remove the front cover consumed the entire afternoon.  Now that I've removed the HES, the front cover, the chain tensioner and fitted the cam sprockets, it all seems so clear.   Rolling Eyes  The Hall sensor was a particular puzzle.  From my vantage point on the side of the motorcycle I couldn't see the cut out on the cup, so I didn't understand how the thing even worked.  Once off it was clear and things made sense. The front cover in now back in place. (As an aside, I think the factory gasket goop on the front cover was a mix of one part goop to one part super glue!)  Tomorrow after the LocTite 515 sets up I'll torque the fasteners.  
Next up is changing out the 23-year old brake lines.  I can hardly wait for the thrill of bleeding my first brake system with ABS.   bounce
BTW, there is a gasket under the HES cover on my bike.



Last edited by brickrider2 on Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:53 am; edited 1 time in total


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

43Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:41 pm

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
(o) Lots of fun to come...


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

44Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:40 pm

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
@brickrider2 wrote:Next up is changing out the 23-year old brake lines.  I can hardly wait for the thrill of bleeding my first brake system with ABS.   bounce

This is for an RS but pretty similar to an LT.

http://dws.x10host.com/11tech/94-96_K1100RS_Galfer_Brake_Line_Install_V1.2.doc.pdf


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

45Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:11 am

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
Thanks Drake.  Maybe that can keep me outta major trouble.  Maybe....


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

46Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:23 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
Unless you want to violate a cardinal rule of wrenching by resorting to crescent wrenches get 11 & 14mm open end box wrenches before doing the brake lines.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

47Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:23 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
@duck wrote:Unless you want to violate a cardinal rule of wrenching by resorting to crescent wrenches get 11 & 14mm open end box wrenches before doing the brake lines.

Very sound advice indeed.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

48Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:56 am

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
FWIW I use 6-point spanners for that game. As you're replacing the lines, you might want to consider cutting the hoses off next to the fittings so you can get a socket (box wrench?) directly over the old fitting. I'd also strongly recommend using Dowty washers rather than copper washers when fitting the new lines - they seal a lot better than copper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dowty-Washer-10mm-M10-Spare-Replacement-gasket-10-pack-R-M-Fits-PSR0108/311920331869?hash=item489fe68c5d:g:HxIAAOSw54xUXNRH:rk:2🇵🇫0

My favourite storey about Dowty washers arose when I was making brake lines and a wiring loom for a Kawasaki trike. I'd bled the front brakes and made sure they were well up to pressure. A couple of days later I was walking passed the trike and I knocked the front brake line next to the master cylinder. I was horrified to realise it was loose; I hadn't finished tightening it up after I'd positioned it, but there was not a drop of hydraulic fluid to be seen. A really good squeeze confirmed no leakage and no softening of the brakes. Had that been a pair of copper washers, it would have p!ssed everywhere.


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

49Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:20 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
Dai

Not only would it have pissed everywhere, probably a brown trouser moment somewhere along the way too.......impact, driver.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

50Back to top Go down    Re: K1100LT Valve cover on Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:41 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
The problem with those Dowty washers is that they're not metal so they don't last. I tried those years ago and am of the opinion that they're crap.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

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