BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down    Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 02:40

TheGreatMorten

TheGreatMorten
active member
active member
Hello everyone

Spring is around the corner, and im getting my K100rs 16v back together from the paintshop.
Last season i was running on Castrol Power 1 20w/50 which is a mineral oil.

I have some ELF Cruise 20W50 in the garage, but would a syntetic oil be better? I have thought about 10w50 Elf Tech, semi syntetic oil which have a good reputation. But i dont know many who runs a k100 where i live, so i would love the experiance with what you Guys run on :-)

My K have rode around 100.000 km /62.000 miles

    

2Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:23

duck

duck
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To me there's not much point in running semi-synth oils. You still need a 6,000 mile change interval whereas with a full synth you can have a 10,000 mile change interval.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

3Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:23

BobT

BobT
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5/40 synthetic. Why use old 1980s oil specs when there is much better around these days. Change every 15,000 kms whether it needs it or not.

    

4Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:26

RicK G

RicK G
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VIP
I have always used Shell RX5 and have had no problems but my source of cheap shell oil has sold his business so I will be changing to a full synthetic and expect no problems. Use the best oil you can justify buying. Usually synthetic have a longer life so cost isn't as much different as the price suggests.


__________________________________________________
"Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." from Mencken's 1919 Prejudices

Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

5Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:29

TheGreatMorten

TheGreatMorten
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active member
I Work with Castrol and ELF oil, so the Price on those 2 brands dont matter :-D
But im interested in what whould be the BEST oil, Mineral or syntectic.. and what viscosity

    

6Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:42

BobT

BobT
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@TheGreatMorten wrote:I Work with Castrol and ELF oil, so the Price on those 2 brands dont matter :-D
But im interested in what whould be the BEST oil, Mineral or syntectic.. and what viscosity
The brand is mostly irrelevant as all oil has specifications. As to what is the best, have a look at what BMW use in their latest bikes and that is probably close. I could go into the second part of your question, but that would take a very long time.

    

7Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 03:44

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
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I have used lots of oils and don't use the 5W as it seems too thin so I stick with 10W40 and 15W40. I found on 3 Ks so far that fully synthetic tends to weep very slightly on the engine covers and not sure why but it doesn't create an issue.


Spec is the important bit. A lot of the branded oils anyway are actually made by the big oil companies.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

8Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 04:08

TheGreatMorten

TheGreatMorten
active member
active member
@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I have used lots of oils and don't use the 5W as it seems too thin so I stick with 10W40 and 15W40. I found on 3 Ks so far that fully synthetic tends to weep very slightly on the engine covers and not sure why but it doesn't create an issue.


Spec is the important bit. A lot of the branded oils anyway are actually made by the big oil companies.


You seem to know your oil :-) How many kms have your k ridden? and would you reccomend a semisync 10w40 /10w50above a 20w50 mineral?

    

9Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 04:28

duck

duck
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@BobT wrote:
@TheGreatMorten wrote:I Work with Castrol and ELF oil, so the Price on those 2 brands dont matter :-D
But im interested in what whould be the BEST oil, Mineral or syntectic.. and what viscosity
The brand is mostly irrelevant as all oil has specifications. As to what is the best, have a look at what BMW use in their latest bikes and that is probably close. I could go into the second part of your question, but that would take a very long time.
This is not true. Just because all oils meet the same specs does not mean they're all the same. Some are actually better than others, starting from what crude is used and then how it is refined. (Insert 5,000 post oil thread with lots of chemistry mumbo jumbo here.)

All that aside, the most important thing is to change the oil regularly.


And since K bikes have pretty bulletproof engines I do agree that in the end it probably doesn't matter all that much what brand you use.

For conventional I prefer Castrol GTX 20/50 and for synthetic Mobil 1 15/50.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

10Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 04:29

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
I seem now to hit 20-25,000 miles a year.

Oils have changed so much since Ks were designed.

I don't put mineral oil in anything. While it works its got to be changed a lot more frequently because it doesn't have long life. Diesel cars in 80s were change oil 2,000 miles although that was partly to do with fuel quality. My Honda fours back in the 70s were change at 2,000 miles running on mineral oil because that's all there was. Even then people fought over whether you used Castrol GTX or Duckhams.

Semi and fully synthetic oils last much longer and retain their quality better. For the extended life you need fully synthetic and then you can go for very long service intervals. This works for fleet users because it extended costly service intervals.

I don't get hung up on the brand name, love those debates where 'mine goes 0.002mph faster with X brand or I get 0.5 miles extra per tank of fuel. Reality is none of us will notice the difference and it may be the case its actually the same oil witha different name on the container. You can go to Lidl, Aldi, Halfords or many more and buy oil that meets the spec.

Manufacturing tolerances have improved and improved engine management has allowed closer tolerances meaning thinner oils are needed hence 5 and 10W for cold starts. On old school, old or well worn engines 5W may struggle to get up oil pressure. The upper 30 may be too thin when engine is hot and clearances open up a little, in extreme hot you will see 50W specd.

There are endless heated discussions on oils but while mineral oil will work bottom line isit hasbeen superceded by improved technology.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 87,980 miles
1983 K100RS 0011175 Fricka 29,000 miles Damn K Pox
    

11Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 04:45

TheGreatMorten

TheGreatMorten
active member
active member
@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I seem now to hit 20-25,000 miles a year.

Oils have changed so much since Ks were designed.

I don't put mineral oil in anything. While it works its got to be changed a lot more frequently because it doesn't have long life. Diesel cars in 80s were change oil 2,000 miles although that was partly to do with fuel quality. My Honda fours back in the 70s were change at 2,000 miles running on mineral oil because that's all there was. Even then people fought over whether you used Castrol GTX or Duckhams.

Semi and fully synthetic oils last much longer and retain their quality better. For the extended life you need fully synthetic and then you can go for very long service intervals. This works for fleet users because it extended costly service intervals.

I don't get hung up on the brand name, love those debates where 'mine goes 0.002mph faster with X brand or I get 0.5 miles extra per tank of fuel. Reality is none of us will notice the difference and it may be the case its actually the same oil witha different name on the container. You can go to Lidl, Aldi, Halfords or many more and buy oil that meets the spec.

Manufacturing tolerances have improved and improved engine management has allowed closer tolerances meaning thinner oils are needed hence 5 and 10W for cold starts. On old school, old or well worn engines 5W may struggle to get up oil pressure. The upper 30 may be too thin when engine is hot and clearances open up a little, in extreme hot you will see 50W specd.

There are endless heated discussions on oils but while mineral oil will work bottom line isit hasbeen superceded by improved technology.

The oil i want to try is the Moto Tech 10w-50

It have been given full points on Performance, start up protection and power from ELF.









They write the following:


MOTO 4 TECH is a new generation, high technology



lubricant guaranteeing high endurance performance

and improves the power of your engine. It guarantees

an optimal cleanliness of all parts of the engine and

ensures smooth and slick gear changes.





SYNTHETIC TECHNOLOGY OIL



API SL JASO MA2

    

12Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 05:03

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
K bikes have a dry clutch so there's no need to buy "motorcycle" oils for them. Motorcycle oils are formulated for bikes that have a wet clutch/transmission that shares oil with the motor. You're better off using car oil since it has more friction modifiers that aren't good for a wet clutch.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

13Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Fri 08 Feb 2019, 07:18

BobT

BobT
Life time member
Life time member
@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I have used lots of oils and don't use the 5W as it seems too thin so I stick with 10W40 and 15W40. I found on 3 Ks so far that fully synthetic tends to weep very slightly on the engine covers and not sure why but it doesn't create an issue.


Spec is the important bit. A lot of the branded oils anyway are actually made by the big oil companies.
How can the oil be too thin when cold? You need to to get around the engine as quickly as possible to stop bits grinding together.
Just for your information the 5 bit will only be when you start the bike, within 2 miles it will not be 5 anymore as it is getting warmer. When the oil is at full temperature the 40 or 50 bit is much thinner than the 5 is when cold.
The ideal oil would be the same viscosity (thickness) throughout the temperature range but it is too hard to make, it would probably be something like a 0w70!
All modern diesels now use a 5w30 and they are hard on the oil.

    

14Back to top Go down    Re: Engine Oil on Sat 09 Feb 2019, 09:37

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
Moderator
Moderator
Because engine oil is more expensive by far Down Under than in Los Estados Unidos, I just go and buy the cheapo black bottle 5 litre jug of Great Western 20W50 mineral oil @ $24.95 on sale at Supa Cheap Auto or Autobarn and glug it into the red RS. Have done for yonks. I end up with enough left over to change the oil 'for free' after four oil changes with that extra litre because the bike doesn't use a drop between changes. I have stopped carrying spare oil on trips. It usually has under 5K kilometres when it gets dropped for the bike's typical year-long storage.

For my bikes in the US I am more particular, only partly because it's easier to find a wider choice and that is also less expensive, so it's 10W50 Motorex full synth (JASO MA2 spec) in the wet clutch jobbies, and then Mobil One 15W50 full synth 'car' oil for the dry clutch machines. I get the Motorex from a wholesaler in 25 litre jugs and thread a plastic tap to the barrel for easy pouring. The Mobil One is found at Walmart (I hate that place otherwise) for about $22 per 5 quart jug, on sale.


__________________________________________________

1987 K100RS, '93 Framed K11/K12 engine 'Big Block', '09 K1300GT, '07 K1200R, '95 R100 Mystic & '77 R75/7.

    

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