Wanting to put a 17" wheel on the rear to replace the wide 18" (for easier access to tyres and greater choices) I bought a K1200RS rear wheel on fleabay for a seemingly good price.  When it arrived I found it was actually an R1150 rear wheel, still 5.0 x 17" but with cast mountings for the rear disk built into the wheel. I got a refund and told to keep the wheel as postage back was just an extra cost to the vendor.

So I have a free wheel to play with.  I cut the disk mountings off after a few hours of graft and the use of many different cutting and abrasive tools.

I hadnt considered that the 2 different wheels may have a different offset but it appears they do.  I've fitted a Metzeler Roadtec Z6 front and rear (after a disappointing <10,000kms on a pair of Angel GTs).

Visually from the rear you can easily see the tyre is fitted left of the centreline.  A test ride proved the bike is quite safe to ride, doesnt display any evil handling traits, but if you take your hands  off the bars it turns to the right every time. I can fit a whole finger between the tyre tread and the swingarm without compressing my finger much at all so I have a fair bit of leeway.

So next mod will be the get some material removed from the bolt face to shift the wheel back towards the centre (not running any spacers at this stage. I'm thinking 10mm as I can always use spacers to bring it back the other way if needed.

Al

PS: The wide RS 18" wheel is not for sale as I want it to be available for the day I will want to put the bike back to bone standard. However if someone (local) wants to borrow it to see how their bike feels with a wider rear before committing to buying one I'm open to requests. It has an Angel GT Radial fitted with maybe 1000km to go before it hits the wear markers.

I fell into exactly the same trap Al except the wheel I have is from a R1100S.
I haven't investigated but I have a feeling the K1200 wheel will be the same. I think the K1200 rear drive allows for more offset I just had a look and there is 19.2mm more offset to the left  than from a K1100 rear wheel which has the same offset as the K100 16V. Don't think there is much chance of making it fit if it is the same dimensions as the one I have.
What we meed to find out now, is the K1200 wheel different in the offset.
More thinking (shit this is hurting) the wheel with the disc mounts on it will need more offset because the thickness of the disc needs to be taken into consideration and the K1200 has the disc attached to the hub not the spokes.

Some more investigation shows that the wheels are not the same despite having the same 5 spoke design.
I have seen the 5 spoke design on the K100/1100 paralever so there is a way to do it.

Well the wheel cost me nothing so I've got nothing to lose anyway. Doing some raw measurements I can afford to take 12mm off the mounting face with no caliper clearance problems.  I still think I'll have clearance between the tyre and the swingarm at that, if not a spacer will sort it anyway.

Al

You can sneak 3-4mm by spacing the pivots across.
There is a picture of a K1100 that has the 5 spoke wheels on Glumtree and it looks like the back wheel is well over to the left but pictures can be very deceiving.
There is heaps of meat to do some machining on the hub face, you could take 12mm of that OK.

That's a nice little mod you've done. Hows about a piccie of the back end and a side view if you have a mo'. It'd be good to see what she looks like. I'm always playing with these things and another in the arsenal can't hurt. Ta.

If you need a center stand that will accommodate a wider wheel then a K100RS4V/K1100 center stand will bolt right up. 

It is a tad shorter than a 2V centerstand but to deal with you can add some washers/spacers between the mounting plate and the transmission like BMW did at the factory on K1100LTs.

duck wrote:If you need a center stand that will accommodate a wider wheel then a K100RS4V/K1100 center stand will bolt right up. 

It is a tad shorter than a 2V centerstand but to deal with you can add some washers/spacers between the mounting plate and the transmission like BMW did at the factory on K1100LTs.

The bike is a K100RS4V.  So it already has the stand.

Re the pics for TWB, I'll get some later today. Looks exactly the same from the side as a K1200RS would. 

If the wheel wasn't free (which it was after the refund) I wouldn't bother doing it.  The wheel machining cost me the time to cover a seat for a mates airhead caffe racer that he's building. 

Al

So next mod will be the get some material removed from the bolt face to shift the wheel back towards the centre (not running any spacers at this stage. I'm thinking 10mm as I can always use spacers to bring it back the other way.

Hi. May I ask if you did it?
Was 10mm enough?
Thank you.

Easiest solution is to leave the R series wheel as it is, but omit the K series brake disc. This leaves the wheel with more or less the correct offset, no machining of the hub required.
Just use the R series brake disc, mounted on the wheel. You will need a matching R series brake caliper (same bolt mounting centres as the K series calipers) and you will have to shorten the disc mounting posts so's things line up. The R series caliper is needed because the R series disc is a narrower track.

I did this with a R1100s wheel fitted to a K series paralever back end. The wheel was the smaller, 5 inch rim which takes a 170 section tyre. With a bit of machining on the pivot pins, I managed to get the wheel within a couple of millimetres of dead central.

If you find the thread 'k75kforkurz' and read post 148 onwards, there's more explanation plus pics.

Afterburner wrote:

So next mod will be the get some material removed from the bolt face to shift the wheel back towards the centre (not running any spacers at this stage. I'm thinking 10mm as I can always use spacers to bring it back the other way.

Hi. May I ask if you did it?
Was 10mm enough?
Thank you.

I did and we ended up taking 12mm off of it, then using bolts of an appropriate length to suit.

Al

Suzi Q wrote:Easiest solution is to leave the R series wheel as it is, but omit the K series brake disc. This leaves the wheel with more or less the correct offset, no machining of the hub required.
Just use the R series brake disc, mounted on the wheel. You will need a matching R series brake caliper (same bolt mounting centres as the K series calipers) and you will have to shorten the disc mounting posts so's things line up. The R series caliper is needed because the R series disc is a narrower track.

I did this with a R1100s wheel fitted to a K series paralever back end. The wheel was the smaller, 5 inch rim which takes a 170 section tyre. With a bit of machining on the pivot pins, I managed to get the wheel within a couple of millimetres of dead central.

If you find the thread 'k75kforkurz' and read post 148 onwards, there's more explanation plus pics.

You're assuming that I had an R1100 brake disk and caliper on hand to do it.  This was a low buck experiment, no more money to be expended.  Like I said the wheel was free so I could do what I pleased.  The bike is still running and has done many Kms since.

Al

AL-58 wrote:

Afterburner wrote:

So next mod will be the get some material removed from the bolt face to shift the wheel back towards the centre (not running any spacers at this stage. I'm thinking 10mm as I can always use spacers to bring it back the other way.

Hi. May I ask if you did it?
Was 10mm enough?
Thank you.

I did and we ended up taking 12mm off of it, then using bolts of an appropriate length to suit.

Al

Thank you!. Have a good day!