This is a home made tool to compress the valves in order to replace the shims.
You position the tool between the edge of the shim holder and the cam shaft. When you rotate it, it will compress the valves spring.

Hi!
Do you have any other information about how to make this?
Best, Neal

The only additional information is that you need a full bucket of elbow grease.

Take a thick plate of metal, trace the shape of the tool.
To roughly cut the inside circular part, drill a bunch of small holes following the contour (same principal as a toilet paper roll ) and then finish the cut with a small cold chisel.
Cut the outside shape with a saw, finish it with a grinder or a file.
The inside circular part has to be finished with a file (This is where you can use a lot of elbow grease)

Have fun

Many thanks Bert! I'll let you know how I get on as and when I take this on.
Cheers, N

I made a similar one out of an old shock adjusting "C" wrench, you know the one that all the old twin shock bikes came with to adjust the spring preload. You should be able to get one from any old school type motorcycle wrecker, I fond one in the bottom of my tool box, I had probably owned it for 30 years!!

I bought the factory tool from Motobins for a reasonable price, with the additional tool for picking the oily shims out with too. Then I checked the valve clearances. They now sit collecting dust in one of the drawers of my large toolbox, unopened, clean and safe in their plastic sleeves, along with a fine collection of assorted other special tools accumulated over the years. One day I might need them. One rainy day, if the clearances ever change. Nice to have them though. I like tools. Tools good.

rofl twb .....good news huh ? may i come and have a look at those beuties one day .........sounds like a collectors paradise ....ill bring the digital camera also .....im thinking the sons of sons wont believe me that some things existed ...or should i just say ugh ugh ,,,ala ...tim the toolman taylor and stand in awe ....

I'm sure there is somewhere in the USA to buy this tool but I am having trouble finding it. Anyone know where, or a BMW part number?
thanks.

As per the Haynes manual the two tools are 'Cartool GMBH' part number for the depressor, 11 1 721 and for the spacer, 11 1 722.

Add 95 00 0 to the part number and the BMW spare parts person can convert that into the number that BMW uses to procure tools as if it's a part. It's not a high-use item so finding it aftermarket will be a search in the haystack for a needle, but you might get lucky, you never know. Alternately, the entire kit is part number 95 00 0 111 720. The Motobins number is 99506.

Good into guys. Valve adjust is on the short list and now I've got the tool procurement covered. Might even get adventurous and try to the DIY method.

I've been reading more about how to adjust my one valve that is out of spec. Seems easy enough with the right tools. But I do have another question:
If I do make the tool as suggested here what would I use as the spacer tool that I am suppose to hold the valve open with after I move it with the curved tool?

thanks so much.

The fulcrum of the curved tool depresses the bucket and shim enough for you to pluck, or blow with a blast of compressed air (cover the area with rags), the shim out from under the cam.

Two Wheels Better wrote:The fulcrum of the curved tool depresses the bucket and shim enough for you to pluck, or blow with a blast of compressed air (cover the area with rags), the shim out from under the cam.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking but both Haynes and Clymers acts like the curved tool will be in the way to get the shim out and I'd need to use the spacer tool to hold it open while I remove the shim. Apparently not so.

Anyone in the Mpls area have one I could borrow or rent?

My buddy just made me the adjustment tools and if I can get some shims this week I'll try and document the job this weekend.

OG

From an old shopping cart handle and some steel he had lying around.



OG

I posted a request to the BMW owners' club here in Mpls and a friendly member let me use his tools. It sure was easy with the right tools!

I opened up the valve which was out of spec with the curved tool, held it in place with the square one, and took out the shim with a little screw driver as a pick. There was no number on it so brought it with me to the BMW dealer. He used his caliper to measure what I had: 2.42 MM. Since I was .075 mm off, I bought a 2.35, brought it home and put it in. This was the hardest part because it kept wanting to fall back out until I finally was able to persuade it to stay in with the same small screwdriver.

Spun the engine around and checked the new clearance: perfect!

Thanks, all, for your help.

u mean .075 mm?

club_c wrote:u mean .075 mm?

yep, corrected now....

Hi, when I put the new shim into the bucket, I put a dab of motor oil on the back of the shim, the oil held it in the bucket till I could take the holder out. The only problem with that was, I had to take the motor a few revolutions thru the squeeze the oil out to get a true measurement.

Brian

Don't forget to place the 'number' side of the shim away from the rotating cam's wear. It'll be useful at the next check and replace to know what the shim's width is. A twenty dollar micrometre is a most useful tool, too.

When I had the cams out of my z1300 Kawasaki I machined the intervals between the lobes and bearings smooth and that minimized the chance of getting metal slivers from the tool into the engine as well as making it easier to turn the tool as the surface has little if no resistance.
I also have just made a special tool based on the Kawasaki tool for holding the cup down to get the shim out. I shall post a photo as soon as I clean my bench and find it (probably tomorrow).
I realize that most of you would not have access to the machinery I have but it would pay to get it done if you ever have the cams out. I intend to do it to the 75 and 100 when or if I ever have the things out and I am not going to take them out for tha purpose as I have ever only changed 1 shim in each bike in 3 1/2 years.

Oh by the way does anybody know if there is a replacement for the stupid shim buckets in a K 1100. Can they be replaced by any of the jap bikes because I would like to get around the replace the whole bucket each time when I have a good selection of the jap shim under types.
Maybe I could need to get a bit of the base circle to make them fit {oh no here I go again the need for speed!).