BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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MT350Explorer

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Hi Guys,

I'd like to remove both wheels to take to a tyre shop and would appreciate advice on how best to prop up the bike to prevent damage.

Many thanks
Dave

    

JR_K100RS

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G'day MT350Explorer ,
yup I always take loose wheels when getting tyres as well , saves scratches from heavy hands , also it's a good idea to ensure when the front wheel is put back in that the forks are parrallel & not binding , what I usually do is to get a scissor jack under the engine as far forward as you can get it ( around the oil filter access cover ) and with a piece of thin wood like ply slowly wind it up until the front wheel lifts clear of the ground , I've never had any probs using this method for the last 25 years with my K

Ciao

JR

Melbourne Australia

    

Rickmeister

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Same here. Remove the rear wheel. Then, with a jack of any description, and a piece of timber to protect the engine base, and as far forward as possible, raise the jack until the front wheel is off the deck, remove it. The bike is still quite stable in this situation.


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88

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I did as above Dave and to be safe a couple of light ratchet straps over the garage joists to the grab handles as a backup.
88


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88....May contain nuts!

"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." - St. Augustine from 1600 years ago & still true!

Bike: K100LT 1988. 0172363. AKA the Bullion Brick! Mods: k1100 screen and stands.
K1: 1990. 6374189. Custom Stealth Black paint.
    

K-BIKE


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I would vote for a scissor jack over a hydraulic since the weight it is holding up is minimal so breakage is unlikely and unlike a hydraulic jack the seals cannot leak and let it down whilst you are at the tyre shop.

It happened to me with a car, I came home to find the car resting on the brake plate and disk where the jack had gently lowered the car over the two hours I had been away. I use hydraulic jacks but now never rely on them to hold anything up for more than a few seconds to get a jack stand under the thing.
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

sidecar paul

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Another option is to use two extended axle stands (I made mine adjustable from 25" to 30") with a bar through the frame to support the back of the bike while the front is jacked up. It makes a stable wide 3 point stand.
Paul.


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'84 K100RS (0014643) (owned since '85), 86 K100RS (0018891) with Martello sidecar (built as an outfit in '88),
'51 Vincent (since '67),'72 Montesa Cota (from new), '87 Honda RS125R NF4 (bought 2015)
....No CARS never ever!
    

K75cster

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With my bike on the centre stand I use an old bottle jack the type that you wind up and the middle screws up I stick an old riggers glove on it and it seats itself nicely on the bottom screw of the water pump so far any wriggling and squirming performed by me has not brought it undone.


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Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

sidecar paul

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Here's a picture, it only took about 10 minutes to set it up this morning....... and reminds me I must get round to painting the frame.... Embarassed



Paul.

    

Inge K.

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Here is what I use:


Sidecar Paul: have you tested your setup with the front wheel removed?
(center of gravity is in front of the center stand).

Inge K.

    

sidecar paul

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Hi Inge,
The bar is about 8" to the rear of the centre stand pivot, so with a jack under the front of the engine it keeps everything stable with the centre of gravity well within the base of the triangle. As my drive is on a slight slope and I didn't want to remove the belly pan this morning, I didn't take the trouble to jack up the engine. Also if I were removing the front wheel I would use a square bar because the round bar does roll on the frame and the stands.
I use the setup whenever I need to remove the sidecar because with the bike supported from higher up the frame there is less chance of pushing the bike over when persuading the fittings to go back in place.
Cheers,
Paul

    

Shep

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This week I used a standard motorcycle lift that many of you have to lift both wheels and the bike to a position where I could clean the bike more easily.



Question: Are the points where I chose to support the bike safe without damaging anything?
First of all I used a portable bike stand to hold the bike up so the centre of the bike was free of the two kickstands.




The front motorcycle lift support was positioned around the third cylinder on the flat bottom of the engine (towards the rear of the engine). The lowest exhaust header was clear of the lift mechanism.



The second lift support was positioned under the main kickstand. It ended supporting the bike via two metal tabs that are just below the centre stand bushings.












The bike was extremely well balanced both longitudinally and transversely and sat solidly on the lift. I did not remove any tires to check the balance.
The part requiring attention is the lowering of the bike back into the portable stand as the motorcycle lift moves the position of the bike slightly sideways as it raises it away from the portable stand. The front wheel needs to go back into the portable stand so the entire bike is as perfectly vertical as possible (no lean).


So are the lift points okay?
Shep


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Model Production Date/Serial Number
K100RS 1984 July/ (F0040448)
K100RS 1986 Dec/ (H0142581)
    

duck

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I was stopped at a friend's house who didn't have a lot of tools and I needed to pull both wheels to get some tires. Solution: Phone books!



I've also borrowed the jack from my dad's car when visiting him.


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

duck

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When I got a flat in The Yukon I just used a big rock from the side of the road:


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

Holister

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I usually just lift the front and slip a bessar block with a piece of timber under the sump. If you need it to get it a little higher, run the front wheel up on a lump of timber first and slide another piece under the centre stand, then jack the sump up.


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1988 K100RT VIN No. 0094680
1989 K100RT VIN No. 0097367 (naked)
1996 K1100RS VIN No. 0451808
Fuel: 95 Octane
Engine Oil:Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

Ed

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I find this is an easy method when removing both wheels at the same time . Especially when taking them in for new tread .

Nigel , how would it go to place a block between the wheels prior to engaging the centrestand, you can raise the bike instantly.


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1987 K100RT Ex- police
1989 K100LT Ol' Blue and "Kart" the Kamper trailer. now KAPUT .
1993 K1100RS 0194321 Colour #690 Silk Blue aka" Smurfette"
    

k-rider

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a lot of good ideas

but come to think of it , i dont recall ever having to change both front and rear tyre at the same time ,there always seems to be at least a couple of thousand km between. Very Happy

k-rider


Dai

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I've had both of mine minus both wheels at the same time... Shocked One had my engine trolley under the sump and the 'splinestand' I made supporting the rear. The other was held up with concrete blocks and chunks of timber. I still regret not taking a picture! Very Happy


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'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

Holister

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GroverK wrote:
Nigel , how would it go to place a block between the wheels prior to engaging the centrestand, you can raise the bike instantly.
Yep... that's what I do Ed. But I run the front wheel up on a piece of timber first. Makes it easier to pull it up on the centre stand with the timber under it.


__________________________________________________
1988 K100RT VIN No. 0094680
1989 K100RT VIN No. 0097367 (naked)
1996 K1100RS VIN No. 0451808
Fuel: 95 Octane
Engine Oil:Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

Ed

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"running the front wheel up onto a block of timber" , hadn't thought of that , Nigel
I'm guessing the 1100 will be a different story , as it seems to sit lower , or am I wrong ?


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1987 K100RT Ex- police
1989 K100LT Ol' Blue and "Kart" the Kamper trailer. now KAPUT .
1993 K1100RS 0194321 Colour #690 Silk Blue aka" Smurfette"
    

Bumblebee

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I put the bike on the center stand, if I replacing both tires I first remove the rear tire, then using lifting straps pick up the bike from the handlebars and remove the front wheel.

Eazy Peazy.

http://Bugsmashers.org/phpbb
    

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