Also, wanted to pass this along for anyone looking for a cheap indoor cover here in the states. The Bike bandit cover was $13.10 after the 10% off for AMA and the XL fits the old girl very well.



OG

Man That's a good deal for a cover! Using the fast etch on the screws, did you then clear coat them? I have polished mine with a wire brush and fine sanding squares; since they all had different types and amounts of corrosion and rust they all look different. I did an earlier post asking about replacing them with stainless, I'm not sure I care for the bright finish but I could dull that down with the sanding squares. Sidecar paul sent me an answer that he'd used some stainless fasteners, but he didn't say he used them on that fuel rail/bracket. One of the things I worry about is that the screws I've found seem about 2mm shorter than the stock screws. At this point I can't see if they fasten anything on the "inside" of the bracket.

oops. I just looked at the question I asked you. Above, I'm asking about the screws in the bracket/rail that holds the throttle stop and fuel pressure regulator (on the inside of the bike) beneath the fuel body tubes.

BTW About your tankbag... I had a similar issue when I bought a tank bag for my Sabre 1100. It was very nice in that you could zip off the storage top and take it with you. The problem was that even if zipped off the base didn't have a hole for the gas cap. My solution isn't all that elegant, and I need to re-cut a cleaner piece, it's simply the squishy drawer liner available at walmart.

I just went and took a look on the blog I did for the Sabre. I never posted pics or that mod on the tank bag. I had to burn some holes for gps cable routing. My tank bag came with magnets, suction cups and straps. I simply did a quick pattern of the bag sitting on the tank, took the bag off and marked the hole for the gas cap. I cut everything out and then used the straps with snaps to tie into the "sticky base" I made. When I'm traveling, Now the home made squishy base stays on the tank, secured by the straps. When gas is needed I can just undo the forward snaps/clips and flip the bag back to fuel up. I can send or post pics on the blog if you'd like to see them (I haven't had luck getting pics up on my posts here)

Rick
K100 blog http://1985k100rsre-build.blogspot.com/: http://1985k100rsre-build.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the info about the tank bag. I've not been out n about for any true distance rides yet so it's not been a concern, but it will be something to think about further down the road. I didn't paint the fasteners. Just a bit of lube and installed.

OG

Any one have experience with the 318i injectors?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1-K100-K100RS-K100RT-K100LT-318i-Fuel-Injectors-Best-Upgrade-4-Hole-Spray-/190702086548?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c66bae994&vxp=mtr

Thanks,
OG

I have only had experience with them in a 318i OG i'm sorry. But i reckon they would be ok, ours are only about 125cc aren't they?
You could always run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, thats what i'm fitting to mine as i have it in the shed with the supercharger kit i built for my son's 318i. Its got a guage on it as well so i can set the pressure as required.
Now if i could just fit the supercharger and intercooler.....hmmmm.

Thanks CF62. I've been looking at those guys in Cali who do the turbos...but gawd wouldn't that be a slippery slop!!

OG

Just wanted to post a quickie on the crank seal as I finally had a little time to get it apart today. Nothing wrong with the seal itself so the dry installation with the Advil bottle works fine. Just looks like there was some contamination on the joint itself.



OG

Finishing up all the little odd bits as well... Hope to have her fully sorted for a couple of longer rides coming up!



OG

Nice, I just put a new seal in timing cover but I fear I may have put it in a bit too far, find out in the am,
Bike looks great!

Fingers crossed for you mate! What did you use to seal the cover?

OG

I just got my new coils yesterday. I'm hoping to do a test start by the end of the weekend

Hi, I used pematex product made for oil pans ect. black.seems to work.
Brian

Hey Guys,
I ended up selling my aftermarket seat as it just didn't fit me well, and since I'm not in a position to part with $400+ for a Sargent restoration or a Custom seat I've decided to give it another go recovering the stock dual setup. Fingers crossed third time's the charm!



OG

As you can see from last years attempt. There is far too much bagginess and the cover doesn't lie flat on the foam...



OG

The key to getting good results is using the best one way stretch marine grade vinyl you can find. The piece I got for this redo cost a whopping $9.97.

Things your gonna need for the job:

1) Spray adhesive - the 3M high-strength 90 is also good stuff and is readily available @ home depot for you state side guys.



2) 5/32 metal drill bit to drill out the rivets. Don't skimp on this one as the oem riverts are typical BMW quality and will eat cheap bits before you are finished with the job.

3) Door edge guard for covering the sharp edges on the seat pan and I've also used Gorilla tape with good success for the tighter angles, and for you more frugal guys I'm sure good ol duct tape would get the job done too.

4) 1/8" dia x 5/16 steel rivets are ideal, but 3/8" aluminum will also work if you can't find the 5/16 easily . Hand rivet tool.

5) Depending on the condition of your foam you may need some high density foam for replacement patches. I'm still doing a little research on this one and will report back on a couple of good sources...

6) Small clamps 4-6 should suffice with more being necessary if you want it all done in one whack.

7) Standard clothes dryer or a heat gun if putting bike stuff in the household appliances is strictly verboten!

OG

Watching closely OG this ones on my hit list for early next year. Looks like your going about it propper like as usual OG.

Halo

OG -Going back to my years spent chair manufacture, we preheated the vinyl under spotlamps for approx. 10 - 15 mins, also fitted a 1/4" standard foam on top of the foam form, this seemed to add comfort(soft feel on the bum), the heated vinyl was then placed over the preglued seat, worked the heated vinyl to the shape and left to stand, heat gun only used on the corners and bends so as not to distort the shape of the foam.
Do not stretch the vinyl when placing on the foam, the preheat is to allow it to take the shape.
Hope this helps, it is time consuming.

so good to see you back og ......i chose a vynal with a verry grippy pattern ....it worked well old mate ....nothing worse than sliding back into the hole that your behind doesnt like after a few hundred miles ...

good work ...keep going mate ...its nearly there !

(yeah i know it will never be finished ..but good to have a benchmark in place huh ?)

Thanks guys! Yep, Halo as is my usual MO I've messed this one up more than once and I'm determined to get some decent results on this go around. Thanks for the expert counsel Ungaas! It echo's what I've been learning about upholstery and at this point I plan on getting a bunch of small clamps to fit the vinyl over the foam so it can cool and take the shape more properly before actually gluing it down and installing the rivets.

Also, for you guys stateside there is an excellent shop that does custom work and also will sell you material so you can go as stock or as wild as you wish.

http://www.mredsmoto.com/

Finally another link to get the good stuff in 1/4" foam Ungaas is talking about to go over the OEM foam.

http://www.jacobsupholstery.com/inc/sdetail/630

OG

Well, guys this seat is still spanking my a**! Good thing the vinyl is not expensive as I'm on to piece number three. Thanks to Ungaas and other pros for their guidance. Fingers crossed!!

[b]









OG

Gee OG not looking forward to this bit of the resto

Halo

No worries Halo. I'm betting you guys who are not as ham-fisted as I should not have so many problems. Also, I'll post my final successful procedure in the hopes of giving you a head start on it!

OG

Ok, guys success I think. I really need to invest in a new phone that will do quality video as this would be the perfect little thing to show and it would take maybe five minutes now that I've got a procedure that is giving decent results.





OG

Good man OG

Nice job OG did start to wonder about creasing at front after the first photo but the second photo shows you eliminated the problem. When are you taking orders looks a better job than I could attain at the moment

Cheers Tony

Thanks guys. I got my roomie to shoot a quick vid of the process on her phone so when I get it converted I will post.

OG

Ok, guys this was shot quick & dirty with no edit so you'll have to forgive the small mistakes, but hopefully this will help some folks who are redoing their seats.

OG

Your video is great except for one thing.......I have been walking around with my head at 90 degrees to the left. If it was upside down, I would understand as it would have been made for Australians....down under.
At least I now know what an old goat sounds like. Keep up the great work...you do inspire us to keep going and trying new things.

Great video.
Better move that one to the 'how to' section
And they are not the hands of an 'old goat'.

You have led as astray for all this time your not a old goat at all, rossco is right ?. Well done

Halo

Nicely done. I had ordered a new cover off of Ebay, but never could get it to lay down flat. Nobody said 'glue'. Ended up buying a pretty decent original seat and sold the other one. This looks like it should be fairly straightforward.

good work og ...

looks nice ...thanks for the tutorial ..

See, I knew it was only a ten minute Job! (It sez so on you tube )

rossco wrote:Great video.
Better move that one to the 'how to' section
.......

+1 move to How to section.

Thanks OG.

88

Thanks guys. Yep, Clubbie I did the same thing getting that cover off of Fleabay last year and was very unsatisfied with the results too. Problem is that the vinyl is not of high enough quality to do the job right and I was ignorant about the finer points of putting it down correctly. Live and learn I guess...

OG

I'd planned to do this very job some time ago, and purchased the BMW OEM cover for a K1100RS seat. I lost my nerve and had a professional remake the seat. Now I have a cover I no longer need. $40.00US fob Boise, Idaho, USA and its yours.

Ok, guys part II on the seat as promised. Fairly good results and I may end up doing a part III when I redo the solo seat this fall...




https://youtu.be/8_76gdO4wRc



OG

Question for you guys about front end alignmet: Has anyone used a tool to help insure the tubes are spot on? I was looking at something like this...

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=66

OG

not sure about the tool og ...
the locals here ran me through a bouncing process of the front end to align the big through bolt (axle) and the height of the forks through the tripple clamps ...after wards it all lined up verry well .
i would imagine if the spacers were correct , it all should pull up nice and straight ?

Oldgoat wrote:Question for you guys about front end alignmet: Has anyone used a tool to help insure the tubes are spot on?

Ue this technique and DIY tools:

Fork alignment by Randy Glass. This is the best article on the subject.

Fork alignment testing tools.

Test for telescopic fork stiction.

Perfect! Thanks so much for the great links Rob. I've been getting cranky with the front end still not being where it should be and its past time to get it sorted properly.

OG

Anyone have any experience with one of these?

http://www.beemerbalancers.com/standbalancer.php

Thanks,
OG

I use that system of balancing my wheels and it is always good.
I use a shaft on 2 knife edges and it works well. I used one that was almost identical to that and it did it well.

Thanks Rick!

Ok, guys I'm finally getting around to putting together the solo seat so I went out to Mr. Ed's Moto and bought some supplies from the owner Don. His custom seat work is outstanding. Also a great guy who is willing to share his knowledge and he was very helpful.

http://www.mredsmoto.com/




The dual seat has been holding up fairly well so hopefully with what I've learned along the way the solo will be much less of a pain...we shall see!




OG

Can't wait to see the new seat on OG looks great

good to see you still around og ...

yep also waiting to see the new mods mate ...cheers !

Thanks guys...yep still kicking Chaz! I'm gonna need to chat with you on wheel swaps again soon I think. I rode a Michelin Anakee 3 on an Adventure bike and was very impressed with the on road performance and I've been seriously considering trying a 140/80/17 on a 3 inch k75 rear wheel I've got...

OG

nice ...!!! sounds great og ...will look fantastic and lots of grip i suspect

I found one where they did this except with the Avon tires.



The catch is that Michelin list the required rim width at 3.5" and the k75 is only 3", but I've talked to a couple of dealers and they don't think it would be a deal breaker. Of course could go down to the 130 which only requires the 3" rim , but I'd probably go with the 1100 rear at that point...

Before I forget do any of you guys have wheel welding shops you can recommend that do rim extensions? Kosman Specialties here in the states was sold to some kids and has gone in the crapper.

Glad you're back OG,

Paul.