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Jim Miller

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I unfortunately need to redrill / tap/ helicoil the  hole for the oil pressure switch...

Short of somehow jigging it with a drill press (which i don't have), any ideas for a guide to get that hole straight?

I'm taking off the oil/water pump assembly so I don't get any swarf in the works..


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sidecar paul

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Hi Jim,

Maybe a bush, say 1" diameter and 1½ long with a hole the clearance size for your drill, held against the machined flat for the switch?

It may require an extra pair of hands to hold it square but it could work.

Good luck,
Paul.


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'84 K100RS (0014643) (owned since '85), 86 K100RS (0018891) with Martello sidecar (built as an outfit in '88),
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club_c

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Jim, could you JB Weld the switch back in without drilling and tapping?  It would sure save a ton of grief...


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Jim Miller

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club_c wrote:Jim, could you JB Weld the switch back in without drilling and tapping?  It would sure save a ton of grief...

 Boy that's for sure..but it's really stripped bad..I have the pump assembly on the bench and cleaning it up...\

The drill and the Helicoil kit are on the way from the States,.so I might as well go for it.Shocked


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5Back to top Go down    post on Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:03 pm

ibjman

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Post some pics of what you have left

    

RicK G

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I know the problem I had to deal with it some time ago when doing a reco on a friends K100. If you just want to plug the hole there are plugs with that thread that are longer and will pick up on the thread that is left over but to fix an helicoil is the way to go.
I used a bench vice and mounted it on the pedestal drill and bolted it to the bench in the right place so it could not move, drilled the hole and then mounted the tap in the drill chuck and removed the drive belt and worked the tap by hand on the big pully of the drive, that way everything was kept square.


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Jim Miller

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Oh very good...yes that should work well I think with the drill press.

I am getting some oil leakage out of the hole by the oil pressure switch..but I thinkit may be a bad seal on the engine body..not sure...The pump seems fine ..there is no alternate fluids on either side.

Let's see if I can get these pics on here....

hmm///don't know about this  


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Jim Miller

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well that image thing didn't work..


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Jim Miller

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http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=1&u=18454142


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10Back to top Go down    I think on Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:07 am

ibjman

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I think you can do that with a bit of care and a hand held drill motor. Providing you can get the pump housing firmly chucked up between a couple of pieces of soft wood in some kind of vice.
The correct drill size will be included in the heli coil kit. The drill will follow the hole that is there reasonably well.

One caution. Especially if you do not have experience with this.

The heli coil tap is familiarly known as a "starter tap" ....meaning that it is tapered at the starting end.
Hence, when tapping the hole, after drilling......the bottom 3-4 threads left in the hole after the tapping procedure are not cut to 100% full depth. If you have finished your tap, but failed to go in deeply enough, the heli coil will be compressed at the bottom once installed. Then, when you try to re-install the switch....it will bind up before reaching the full depth for the flange washer to seal.
 For short holes......such as this one could be......heli coil sells additional taps designed to squarely cut the bottom of the thread once the starter tap is removed. alternatively if needed, Once you have finished cutting your starter tap thread....you can then grind the bottom 1/4 to 3/8" off the point of the tap and re use it for a bottoming tap. That however means that you would have to buy a new starter tap for the next thread you need to fix.
 A little care and inspection throughout the process will help you determine if you have the threads cut deeply enough to get the insert in correctly. Once you install the insert, it's a bit of a challenge to get it back out to rework the tapped area.
 Not to scare you her....just use a lot of care.
 Regards, Ibjman

    

Jim Miller

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ibjman wrote:I think you can do that with a bit of care and a hand held drill motor. Providing you can get the pump housing firmly chucked up between a couple of pieces of soft wood in some kind of vice.
The correct drill size will be included in the heli coil kit. The drill will follow the hole that is there reasonably well.

One caution. Especially if you do not have experience with this.

etc

 Thanks for that!..I replied earlier today but it didn't make it here.
I can tap the hole right to the bottom as I have the assembly off and can easily do the last few threads...
I have the right sized drill and will be using a drill press to drill it...


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12Back to top Go down    Great on Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:07 pm

ibjman

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Sounds like you have it well in control

    

Jim Miller

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ibjman wrote:Sounds like you have it well in control

 Do you still have that water pump assembly?


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14Back to top Go down    yes on Sun Aug 04, 2013 12:07 pm

ibjman

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yes

    

Jim Miller

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ibjman wrote:yes

 Are the seals ok on it? have you looked at the shaft?


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16Back to top Go down    I haven't on Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:39 pm

ibjman

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I have not disassembled the pump. I would always recommend resealing any used pump before installing it.
 It was not leaking when I took it off but it's been sitting dry for months.
 Since I haven't dis-assembled it, I have no Idea what it may or may not need. The shaft (like most) could very likely need replacement to accommodate the newest model seal design.

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/221260222587?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

You would likely need to buy a shaft, seals, a seal installer press tool, spacers and an impeller to do it right.

Or you could just bolt it on as is & see what happens if you'd be ok with taking it back off in the event it starts to leak.

It's always a crap shoot when you're dealing with used parts.

    

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