Hi K Heads,

I'm in the process of dismantling the clutch assembly and in the back of my mind are old stories of injury through the clutch assembly flying apart as the cover plate comes off?

Is this a concern on the K. I admit to being a mechanical noob. The bolts are out, and the plate is not the happiest thing I've seen to come from it's home, but is is moving.

I just wanna know should I keep my hands well clear should it unleash.

Any words of wisdom appreciated.

Regards,

Jez

It doesn't come out at a million mph once it clears the locating pins it is stress free and will cause you no harm unless you drop it on your foot.

Thanks Rick,

I knew someone knowledgeable would be keeping an eye out.


Jez

+ 1 with rickg on that, wear steelcap boots if a noob or till ya learn not to drop things carry on you're doing fine

Gottem on as I type!

Any hints on getting that stinkin O ring out? tried sharpened coat hanger wire bent and sharpened 3" nails, went to the local hardware, brought a scriber, can't get a hold of that li'l blighter.

Am I to understand that when this piece of pesky rubber is out, that the housing will follow?

Good call on the main drive O/P seal though, there's a good old flow of oil, 'specally with all the foreign movement going on.


Jez.:pale:

Got it, li'l M%$#%$^%&!



Jez

What I have done is to sharpen a small screwdriver like a chisel and then cut it into 4 pieces then stab one at a time with some .6 mig wire and out it comes.

OK so the clutch is off and while I mull over exactly how everything goes back and what  need to replace, I'm doing a little housework cleaning like SWMBO.

Every time I look like at my photos, and look at Motobins Website, It looks straight forward, but am I correct in assuming that the output spline forward from the clutch housing remains "wet" the OP shaft seal (along with the O ring) is actually to keep the oil forward of the Intermediate flange. This constitutes the barrier between the dry clutch area and the "wet" engine area.



This Bad Boy, Mine was sitting very flush ( believe it's supposed to sit 1mm proud, although I guess its bedded down by the Flange?)


Any help appreciated,

Cheers,
Jez

BMW say in the manual to leave a replacement seal .5mm proud of the engine case. This is so the sealing lip runs on new material and not in a groove that may or may not be there from the OEM seal running on the seal surface.
If the surface is clean with no markings that you can feel by running a finger nail across it then I reinstall the seal into the cases in the same position as the original was. If there is a track or groove then I use an after market seal which is 50mm x 80mm x 8mm which is 2mm narrower than the OEM and runs in a position that is about 1mm away from the worn area.
If you do use the after market seal then specify Viton material because the usual nitrile seal will not stand up to the heat and you will be back in within 20 000k to do it all again.

Jez wrote:OK so the clutch is off and while I mull over exactly how everything goes back and what  need to replace, I'm doing a little housework cleaning like SWMBO.

Every time I look like at my photos, and look at Motobins Website, It looks straight forward, but am I correct in assuming that the output spline forward from the clutch housing remains "wet" the OP shaft seal (along with the O ring) is actually to keep the oil forward of the Intermediate flange. This constitutes the barrier between the dry clutch area and the "wet" engine area.



This Bad Boy, Mine was sitting very flush ( believe it's supposed to sit 1mm proud, although I guess its bedded down by the Flange?)


Any help appreciated,

Cheers,
Jez

Looking at the thrust washer you can see it has a small lip. mine split at 90.000miles and cause a great rattle. I don't know how long these last, but you may want to consider replacing it Whilst you are so far into the engine. They are rather expensive for what they are. $25, but it may pay to do it now

While cleaning the Gearbox the plastic around the gear position switch has begun to break down. I though I might just set the whole plug again in resin or some such. Any ideas on an appropriate plastic, resin? Builders bog?

No need for heat resistance?


Jez

Jez wrote:While cleaning the Gearbox the plastic around the gear position switch has begun to break down. I though I might just set the whole plug again in resin or some such. Any ideas on an appropriate plastic, resin? Builders bog?

No need for heat resistance?


Jez

Yes. Any of the above. Just something waterproof.
If you pull it apart, do it in a zip lock bag with the bag zipped.
Unscrew it from the gearbox and then pop it in the bag.
The two halves just come apart though may need coaxing.
If you remember the pickup springs from AFX HO scale cars as being very small things then these bits are smaller.
I lost a spring and thought I would use a AFX one. Twice as big as required.

Jez, scroll down through Crazy Frog's POST it has some good pics and info

I have done 4 of those in a polyeurathane glue like sikaflex or if you want the same stuff at half the price Bostik seal and flex. Takes about 2 days to cure and is everything proof.
It has the same consistency as silicone but you can clean up with turps and make sure the surface is as clean as possible. Break up all the rubbery hard stuff up and get as much as possible off then I use a toothbrush and scrub it out with turps or petrol and leave it in the sun to dry. When you apply the stuff get it down around the sides where the cover was as there is a joint there that is almost invisible sometimes. As rossKo was saying if you pull it apart be very careful.

Argh! 

Does anybody have a gear lever they can afford to part with in Sydney? Payment in cash, beer or other within reason.

While I've got your attention, any body have a clutch centering tool? My tool making facilities here are rudimentary to say the least, a main seal drift would be excellent also. 

Eternal gratefulness is promised along with the return of the tools.

Jez.

Jez wrote:Argh! 

Does anybody have a gear lever they can afford to part with in Sydney? Payment in cash, beer or other within reason.

While I've got your attention, any body have a clutch centering tool? My tool making facilities here are rudimentary to say the least, a main seal drift would be excellent also. 

Eternal gratefulness is promised along with the return of the tools.

Jez.

Sorry Jez, no lever or drift, but use a socket and a pencil to centre the clutch. It is only to hold it briefly while you tighten a couple of the bolts.
Socket sits snug in the clutch spline.
Pencil sits snug inside the socket.
Sharp pencil point sits nicely in the 'other bit'
Bingo.

Cheers Rossko,

Yeah I think I may revert to the clever "tool" I saw somewhere on the forum; long socket drilled out with clutch push rod thru the guts.

Oh BTW, does anyone know the Gear shift lever hole size? just in-case I have to revert to the  generic jobby whilst I get "The Frau" back on the road. Mine is broke an the spiggot is taped up for masking as the gearbox is going black.

Jez

Use the transmission as the centering tool.  Install the clutch plates, get them centered by eyeball and snug the screws so that the assembly won't move under its own weight but will shift if pushed.  Use the "M8 bolts with the heads cut off" trick to align the transmission and ease its maneuvering.  Then take the transmission and mate it up to the bell housing.  The input splines on the transmission will line up the clutch assembly. Carefully remove the transmission and torque the clutch bolts without disturbing the clutch position.  

Or try this trick (Papermate permanent marker):

https://servimg.com/view/11165681/86

I got a socket that fit inside the clutch hole. Then got the clutch push rod and put it through the socket to get a rough idea of how far in it would go. I then took the rod out and wrapped electrical tap around it at the right spot so it would sit center and tight in the socket. Lots of tape so it fitted inside the socket. Instant clutch centering tool.

Supprisingly they aren't real fussy about alignment I did one by eye some time ago and the tranny went on first time.

Ok so the rebuilding starts today,
and I already have a piece left over! from a bag marked "2 bits fell out when intermediate flange removed"
One is the spring (which I gotta say fits so much neater if its flipped 180 deg, see pic below fiche) and the other washer/shim(?) is part 2 on the fiche?





Don't tell me it doesn't go this way!

Below is the bit I'm unsure of.



Anybody?

Jez

stingin' to get back on the road, I keep getting bike envy (even the Madasses).

Well, it's all back together and running again, now for the fuel delivery system.

Jez