AJ.Valente wrote:Greetings,

   Am planning some upgrades over the winter and am looking in particular for these hard to find parts:

a) K1 handlebars 32712308339 (supersedes #32712309743)
b) K75S 3-spoke rim Front: 36312310734

Let me know if you can help.

Thanks,

AJ

Are you planning to put K1 handlebars on an RT?  There is very little rise on the K1 bars and, unless you have arms like a spider monkey, you will be leaned pretty far forward and I'd guess that your helmet will be very close to, if not in contact with, the windscreen.

K1 bars make sense on a K1 (and contribute to the comfort) because of the seat height and the footpeg position.

I once rode a Touring K1 (with standard K-Series footpeg positions) and it was quite unpleasant owing to the changed ergonomics (quite severe back and hip aches).

For a short while I toyed with the idea of K1 bars on my current project but ruled it out on the basis that it would need a low seat conversion and rear-set pegs etc to make it comfortable.

Given the scarcity of K1s, their parts are probably equally scarce.  You probably should consider Flanders bars.  You'll have good selection of a variety of styles, and good availability.  They are true 22mm bars.  Downside is the price, but if you could locate K1 bars, you'd probably pay the same and they would be used.

I think R1150R bars are very similar to K1.


Al

Remember that when you change handlebar heights you may need to also change:
 - Brake line from master cylinder
 - Throttle, clutch and choke cables

Thanks all for the suggestions. People have gone from RS to RT bars, and that certainly is a chore. But, nobody has gone the other way so far as I've found, so it's not yet clear how it will turn out.

My research shows about a three (3") inch difference in rise. I have a new gunfighter seat and anticipate the forward lean and footpeg position to be acceptable for my given height (for instance, there's no difference in foot peg position between RS and RT.).

Type           Tip to tip    Rise/Setback
=============================
RT/LT             27"            10.5"
K1                 27" (69cm)  7" (18cm)
Standard(C)    25"             7"

The standard C bars are not wide enough for this application IMO. 

I'm hoping for no modifications to brake line, throttle, clutch, and choke cables. There's not that much slack to begin with, and it may be a bit unsightly but a reduced rise of a couple inches should not make all that much difference just so long as the tip-to-tip width is the same. 

If the helmet gets too close to the faring the back-up plan is to get a set of risers. Risers may affect the switch plate, but a few washers and longer screws should do the trick.

A Corbin Gunfighter will put you in about the same riding position as most other seats (except they're generally a little harder, maybe just a tad lower) and the pegs will have you in the same position you'd be on most other seats.

And C bars would work fine on a K100RT. An RT only weighs 9 lbs more than an RS and the RS bars aren't as wide as the C bars.  JHMO.

If you end up getting bar backs then get some made for Ks as they'll be drilled and tapped in the front to move the dash pad back with the bars.

K100RS-1v and K1100RS bars are the same bend/rise as K100RS bars but 2" wider.  They use different bar end weights though.

I always use K1100RS bars on the sidecars for the extra width/leverage.  I like wide bars anyway, no matter what bike.

Al

The following was the results of my research to locate handlebars for my project bike:

Handlebar Measurements
All measurements are made in normal riding position.

Height or Rise: Total height measured in a level plane.

Pull Back: Vertical lines from the furthest forward to rear in a level plane.

Center Width: Straight flat section before the start of the bends.

Width: Total overall tip to tip width, no grips or bar end weights.

Height:
Early S ----2 3/4"
Late S -----2 3/4"
C -----------4 3/8"
RT & T -----5 3/4"
Flanders /5 /6 (B21) chrome ------- 4 1/2”
Flanders R90S (C20) chrome ------ 3”
Bikemaster LTD ------------------------ 4 3/4”
Emgo Euro 23-12563 -------------------2”  <--- This is what was purchased. Similar to R90S (C20) bars


Total Pull Back:
Early S -----5 1/8"
Late S ------5 5/8"
C ------------6 1/8"
RT & T ----10 3/8"
Flanders /5 /6 (B21) chrome ------- 9 1/2”
Flanders R90S (C20) chrome ------ 4 3/4”
Bikemaster LTD ------------------------ 7 1/4”
Emgo Euro 23-12563 -----------------5 1/2”

Width:
Early S -----23"
Late S ------24"
C ------------25 3/4"
RT & T ------27"
Flanders /5 /6 (B21) chrome ------- 28 3/4”
Flanders R90S (C20) chrome ------ 25 1/4”
Bikemaster LTD ------------------------ 30”
Emgo Euro 23-12563 -----------------  29 1/2”

Center:
Early S ------4 3/4"
Late S -------4 3/4"
C -------------5"
RT & T -------5"
Flanders /5 /6 (B21) chrome ------- 4 1/2”
Flanders R90S (C20) chrome ------ 4”
Bikemaster LTD ------------------------ 4 3/4”
Emgo Euro 23-12563 ----------------- 4 3/4”


Diameter:
Bikemaster and Emgo bars are 7/8" OD (.867"measured 22.12mm)
Flanders and BMW bars are 22mm exactly
S bars are .695-.700" ID

C, RT, & T bars are .615-.622" ID

great report rob ...

thanks

robmack wrote:Diameter:
All bars are 7/8" OD (.867"measured 22.12mm)
Flanders BMW bars are 22mm exactly

BMW handlebars are 22mm, not 7/8.

duck wrote:

robmack wrote:Diameter:
All bars are 7/8" OD (.867"measured 22.12mm)
Flanders BMW bars are 22mm exactly

BMW handlebars are 22mm, not 7/8.

True, these were my crib notes and I knew what I meant.  I was only referring to aftermarket bars in the list.  Should have clarified the text before copying.

the.postman wrote:Are THESE what you want

Hehe. No, those bars are mis-cataloged. They're actually K1100 RS bars (see the welds). I've already wrote the seller and kindly asked that if he put the wrong picture up by mistake to let me know. I doubt if the seller knows the difference, and if he does then he's a scoundrel.

Well, I found a rim in Ohio of all places.

They tell me they have another one if anyone else is looking.

AJ if you also intend putting a 3 spoke on the rear you will need to get a rim from a K75 and not a K1100LT or RS as the ofset is different because of the paralever and monolever drives
The part number for the 3 spoke K75 rim is 36312311889 and the 3 spoke for a K1100 LT is 36312311149 other wise you will end up with the rear wheel 14mm to the left.