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51Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:46 pm

Inge K.


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@blaKey wrote:I'm thinking that the reason the hole (at the lever housingfor the nipple) is underneath thehousing (instead of on top) is for looks only.

It would collect a lot more dirt if it been the other way around.

    

52Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:54 am

Holister

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Changed my clutch cable last week after it became very stiff to operate. The plastic inner was protruding from the lower end. It was a BMW cable and it only lasted 7 months.

The new cable I ordered was a Venhill. After installation and adjustment I have to say my clutch is the lightest its ever been.

While BMW say not to lubricate their cables (teflon coated inner) the instructions which came from Venhill says to flush with WD40 twice a year and apply copper grease to the nipples.

Time will tell... I hope it lasts longer than the BMW cables I've had.

Anyone used these cables before?


__________________________________________________
1988 K100RT VIN No. 0094680
1989 K100RT VIN No. 0097367 (naked)
1996 K1100RS VIN No. 0451808
Fuel: 95 Octane
Engine Oil:Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

53Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Wed Mar 25, 2015 10:22 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

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My spare cable is a Venhill. When I went to put it in I was too busy at work and got my friend who is ex BMW to do it with a few other things. Insisted I got the original cable, which I did. Put them side by side and a big difference in cable thickness which scared me as the BMW clutch is effectively a car clutch so needs a car thickness cable. Put in the BMW one and its a one finger clutch since. Nipples need to be greased either way. The Teflon wont last forever so its betterto regard clutch cable as replace every few years.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 58,645 now 60,500miles
    

54Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:27 pm

blaKey

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"It would collect a lot more dirt if it been the other way around."

I can't argue with that logic!


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Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!
K100RT 1987 (now nekkid with red bits)

Remember Rule No. 6
    

55Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:16 pm

gabriel


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Hi

I agree.
I experienced a similar problem back in 2000 when I last rode my bike. I'm close to getting it back on the road!n..finally......
Contacted Bmw Southbank and their advice was to always check and replace the clutch lever when replacing the cable.
That was five years

Cheers

    

56Back to top Go down    Clutch cable break on Mon Oct 09, 2017 3:11 am

filastein

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I thought I was the only one with this problem. I was thinking new clutch time. Now I will be spendindga weekend checking everything out.

I'd hate to have it break again when I head to South Island in February for the Burt Munroe CLassic.
Hopefully going via Wanaka, kiwiK100

    

57Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:33 am

MartinW

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I'm still on all my OEM cables 25 years on. I have installed a grease nipple on the clutch pivot arm, and against advice I lube all my cables with a PTFE based lubricant, do not use WD40 or their like as they can cause the inner liner to degrade. The PTFE is available from bicycle shops, the one I use is called TriFlo . The nipples and lever are lubed with lithium spray grease.
Regards Martin

    

58Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:58 am

charlie99

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wtf ... really ?

wd 40 is a water displacement solvent ...it works well for just a short while as the carrier of the fishoil flushes out most contaminants ...then leaves far more insidious after residue ...to gather dust, grease and everything else and just binds up the whole lot as it dries and ages

for its purpose of drying out old distributor caps etc of old and ill fitting components ..and providing a slippery surface for water ...ideal

...ill guess that the drying out process happens a lot slower in temperate climates and lots of wet weather ...but out here ...sheesh goes like glue if left out in the sun too long

venhill make a good product ...but that advice sucks ..if its real ...hmm perhaps folklaw or new to purpose (clueless ) marketing department ...aiming to get a bigger market share in blighty ?

there are far more suitable things to promote and keep slippery ness ..even in extreme conditions

but would like to add ...there have been a few posts about this ...and the conclusion I saw was , to replace the felt that should be fitted to the clutch cable as it pulls through the perch
it helps keep a straight line to the gland fitting inside the lever pull ...so that it doesn't wear the gland at the handle ...which we have seen tends to move towards the bottom of the handle
then if enough movement in thegland will catch on the cable access guide into the handle , sheering off threads of inner cable ...and then one day snap !!

do a search ...you may find the answer

heres just one

http://www.k100-forum.com/t2321-clutch-cable-barrel-nipple-holder-keeps-dropping

twb posted the correct part that was designed to do the job by bmw ...in yet another thread

and we all seem to ignore the parts list that list it ....including motobins motorworks etc




nothing like a cable injector device to allow the feed of lubricant down the cable to flush it out
back in the day this was gold ...a god send

everyone with cables for activation needs to have one I guess


hope this help someone

cheers


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
    

59Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 6:13 am

Dai

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When I used OEM cables (I make my own now) I was with the MartinW school of thought. PTFE liners are supposed to be the non-maintenance dog's danglies but for one really small problem that everyone somehow overlooks.... Right down at the bottom the Bowden cable has to emerge into daylight to hook into the clutch arm. Without an oil/lubricant, that bit of exposed cable goes rusty and deposits the rust into the PTFE liner. Eventually you create the PTFE and rust version of sandpaper which, in the nature of things, saws through the Bowden cable and always at the most inconvenient moment.

IME the rust gets about four inches up the liner and the cable snaps about two inches up. Over the years and many different bikes (not all my own) I've seen this happen on most non-lubricated PTFE-lined cables. Maybe it's just our climate.


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

60Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:51 am

RicK G

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Maybe we should talk about oil it seems to be a tad less controversial. Rolling Eyes


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

61Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:09 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

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One of my thoughts with any 'new' K is a new clutch cable simply because .....probably mindful of Dai's line of thought as being fairly close to my experience of cables too.

So, the K1100LT should get a new clutch cable. Am I right in assuming my spare K100RT cable goes straight in to a K1100LT?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 58,645 now 60,500miles
    

62Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:47 pm

Ringfad

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Your spare cable is perfect for the new bike as according to Motorworks all LT's and RT's use the same one.

I treated my new to me K1100RS to a new cable and what a difference.

Luckily for me all my RS's and K1 use the same clutch cable so I always try to have a spare around.


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;BMW;K100RS Style Black 1987 105K Km ;BMW; K1 Black 1993 51KKm ;BMW;K1100RSRed 1993 70k miles ;BMW; K100 16V Black (ex ElectricMonk)
    

63Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:55 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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What got me thinking was the clutch on the RT is super smooth and light [new spline lube/clutch plate/pivot bearingsin February and cable is BMW one] and the K1100 isn't yet.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 58,645 now 60,500miles
    

64Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 2:11 pm

Dai

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@RicK G wrote:Maybe we should talk about oil it seems to be a tad less controversial. Rolling Eyes


__________________________________________________
'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California,
'03 Suzuki Blandit GSF600SK3 (NFS any more because wifey has claimed it)
    

65Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Mon Oct 09, 2017 2:18 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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@Dai wrote:
@RicK G wrote:Maybe we should talk about oil it seems to be a tad less controversial. Rolling Eyes

I disagree. Tyres are less controversial.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 58,645 now 60,500miles
    

66Back to top Go down    clutch release lever roller on Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:51 pm

filastein

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Looks like my roller in the clutch release lever is badly worn, it oval at one end & bit of free play.

Any suggestions to to fix this without the expense of the whole lever. I cannot seem to find a separate part for the roller replacement.

    

67Back to top Go down    Re: Clutch cables on Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:02 pm

Inge K.

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@filastein wrote: I cannot seem to find a separate part for the roller replacement.

BMW part # 23 13 1 451 147.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

68Back to top Go down    clutch lever sleeve removal & thrust on Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:31 pm

filastein

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Thanks for part number.

Any suggestions for removal of sleeve?

Also should you be able to move the thrust piston in by hand?

Should the rod come out easily?

    

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