BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
It is getting difficult to find 20w-50w oil. I found out today that they have stopped importing the oil I have used on my K75 and my FJ1200 for 5 years. Havoline Premium 20w-50w mineral oil. I hate changes like that. Makes me have to think. 
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 259495

The only 20w-50w oil I found was Comma Classic SE or CC 20w-50w oil. On the very old fashioned can (which I like very much) says that it is for classic 4 stroke cars from the 60´s, 70´s and 80´s. Comma Classic 


The Haynes manual say´s API classification SF or SH, on the Comma Classic can it say´s API classification SE or CC. Don´t even know what this classification stuff means. Is there anything against using this oil? Is this a good oil for our K´s?


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Life time member
I use a 10W40 semi synthetic oil. So do lots more I reckon. There are a lot of choices in 10W40. I don't think a 20W50 is called up for the K and wouldn't be using it in Iceland.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Alaska Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 58,645 now 98,780 miles
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell No 32,600 miles
    

blaKey

blaKey
Life time member
Life time member
I agree with Olaf.

Check your manual and refer to the viscosities for the temperatures in your area. You may find that 10W40 is what you need.

Also, have a look here......it may be of some interest. Go to the third page.



Last edited by blaKey on Fri 28 Nov 2014 - 9:23; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : no reason. leave me alone. stop judging me.)


__________________________________________________
Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!

Dress for the ride and the potential slide.
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
@blaKey wrote:Also, have a look here......
This is a useful link. I can´t for the life of me remember why I decided to to use 20w-50w mineral. It must have been for good reason at the time. I get obsessed with things like that..........  
affraid 
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) IMG_1793_zps3fb5b8f7



Last edited by TIV on Wed 3 Dec 2014 - 9:43; edited 2 times in total


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
Eggs aren't vegetables can I throw them. Laughing 

Unfortunate that you need to change to a different oil.  I use Shell Helix HX5 10w 50 and have used it fir a long time. I use it because it is good quality mineral oil and I can buy from a mate who is a Shell distributor.
Any of the well known brands are good oil and if you can justify the expense go to a synthetic which wont give better protection but longer change intervals and can be just as economical as mineral oil in the long run.
The main thing with a brand change is to pick a good oil and stick with it as you did try to do previously.
Modern oils are the main reason that engines are lasting longer now days and if someone tries to tell you that you need to use old fashioned oil in an old engine ask them to shake their head and if it rattles it's full of rocks and if it doesn't rattle it's full of concrete.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
Why have you taken a picture of your BMW in front of a worn out Harley accessory. Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 44271


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
@TIV wrote: I can´t for the life of me remember why I decided to to use 20w-50w mineral. It must have been for good reason at the time.

Probably in a drivers manual from the time your bike was made, then the
20W-50 did cover a wide range, and the 10W-40 was only up to 10-15 C.
Over the years this have changed and the 10W-40 have moved more and
more towards the warmer end of the scale.

About the API standard try to find SG or SH.....SJ is not approved by BMW
because of the lower zinc (and other additives) level in modern environment
friendly oils.........unless someone have newer info on this subject than -07.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
@RicK G wrote:Why have you taken a picture of your BMW in front of a worn out Harley accessory. Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 44271

You noticed!!!? sunny Eggs are fine with me Rick. Very Happy

I think Inge is right as always. I have the original owners manuals for both bikes and I have obviously based my choice of oil on the manuals. Thing is that most of my riding is done in between 5 and 15 degrees Celsius. To have 15 to 20 degrees during the summer is not that unusual and we have days where the heat goes up to 30 degrees Celsius. In both 2011 and 2012 I spent a week on the eastern part of Iceland and I was riding in 20 to 30 degrees all the days I was there.


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
@TIV wrote: I have the original owners manuals for both bikes and I have obviously based my choice of oil on the manuals. Thing is that most of my riding is done in between 5 and 15 degrees Celsius. To have 15 to 20 degrees during the summer is not that unusual and we have days where the heat goes up to 30 degrees Celsius.

According to the latest service bulletin I have, 10W-40 have a temp span
from -10 to +30 C on the old K's, it's looks like you're safe.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
According to the latest service bulletin I have, 10W-40 have a temp span
from -10 to +30 C on the old K's, it's looks like you're safe.
Thanks Inge. Would you use mineral, half/synthetic or synthetic? I will go tomorrow and make my choice. I will try to find oil that will outlast me, it´s the little things that seem to be the most mentally straining for me............... my wife sometimes says that I am a borderline autistic............. but who isn´t then?
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 214585
I think mineral is the least expensive and fully synthetic is the most expensive. I change oil on both bikes annually, so mineral would be the most economic for me if I can find it.


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
Hmm.....this start to look like another oil thread, since it now is two digit number of posts.
Which oil to use....you can get as many answers that it is members on this forum.
I think you have to decide this yourself, what I think is most important is to make a choice
that gives you peace of mind.....the bike don't care....unless you neglect the oil changes,
or buy the lowest quality you can find.

The best is of course a full synthetic, handles high temperatures better, have a stronger
lubricating film, cleans the engine internals better, have longer change intervals,
and at last you have the $$$...which you allready have mentioned.
But on our climate the temp isn't any problem, and the average old K owner don't drive it
like it is stolen.

On my oldest K I have always used the same brand and viscosity mineral oil, it have
passed 200K km no alarming noises, the alu inside the engine have just a touch of
light brown.
And about mineral oil, the crude oil on the american continent should be of a better
quality than the european one from the north sea.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
Olav, BlacKey, Rick and last but not least Inge, thanks a lot. I promise this is my last comment in this oily thread. Lets stop while its still fun. I have enough information now to make my own choice. The Flying Brick rules!
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 314114
P.S. I found a reliable source of Shell Helix HX5 10w-40w and will use it from now on. Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 292303



Last edited by TIV on Sun 30 Nov 2014 - 6:57; edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : STOP SPYING ON ME!)


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@TIV wrote:Don´t even know what this classification stuff means. Is there anything against using this oil? Is this a good oil for our K´s?
The classification is the letters and numbers designated to the products @ time of release. The further down the alphabet you go the more modern the latest invention is, so, sf supercedes sg etc

The numbers, the first number is weight and viscosity of the oil, so, for fork oil it will be something like 5w, for engines 10 up to 30 w or higher, for gearboxes 80w

The second number relates to temperature, so, 10/30 is weight 10 temp 30 etc

Hope this info helps understand what the oil companies are on about with their products

I use 20/50 given the info in the book, based on outside air temperatures.

What I want is an oil with a higher detergent in it to reduce the sludging that occurs and jams our starter clutches up as well as one that suits the type of riding I do.

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
@Be made wrote: The numbers, the first number is weight and viscosity of the oil, so, for fork oil it will be something like 5w, for engines 10 up to 30 w or higher, for gearboxes 80w

The second number relates to temperature, so, 10/30 is weight 10 temp 30 etc.

On a multigrade oil both numbers relates to the temperature....10W-30,
10W relates to the pumping properties to the oil when it's cold,
30 is the viscosity measured at 100oC......ie it would be like a
single grade SAE 30 oil at 100oC.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@Inge K. wrote:
@Be made wrote: The numbers, the first number is weight and viscosity of the oil, so, for fork oil it will be something like 5w, for engines 10 up to 30 w or higher, for gearboxes 80w

The second number relates to temperature, so, 10/30 is weight 10 temp 30 etc.

On a multigrade oil both numbers relates to the temperature....10W-30,
10W relates to the pumping properties to the oil when it's cold,
30 is the viscosity measured at 100oC......ie it would be like a
single grade SAE 30 oil at 100oC.
Thank you for that. I would never have known otherwise

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
:BW: .


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
@TIV wrote:.....
P.S. I found a reliable source of Shell Helix HX5 10w-40w and will use it from now on. Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 292303
Shell Helix also comes in HX7 10W-40 which is totally synthetic and only another $5 for 5 lit in Oz.
HX5 10W-40  AU$29.50
HX7 10W-40  AU$34.50
(Price from Supercheap Auto)

I've used Penrite MC4ST 10W-50 only because that's what the PO was using but at around $11/lit it's a bit pricey. Next change I'm swapping to the Helix HX7 synthetic. Anyone else used that?

@TIV wrote:I change oil on both bikes annually, so mineral would be the most economic for me if I can find it.
Depending on the klms you do really. If you do less that 10,000klms per year then yearly would be ok but if you're doing more klms then every 8-10,000 klms just as a rule of thumb. And don't forget your oil filter. 

Cheers


__________________________________________________

1989 K100RT     VIN No.  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN No.  0451808
 Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

AL-58

AL-58
Life time member
Life time member
Based on this chart I'm happy with 20w-50.  It gets well over 30C here way too often.
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) Page_211


__________________________________________________
'87 K100RS/HRD sidecar (1100 motor)  sc25 
'92 K100RS-16v (Paint it Black)

'87 K100RT with Paralever backend

"When I'm too old and too foolish to handle a sidecar I'll buy a Sportsbike"

Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) K-dogs10
    

japuentes

japuentes
Life time member
Life time member
@AL-58 wrote:Based on this chart I'm happy with 20w-50.  It gets well over 30C here way too often.
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) Page_211
Also around here...


__________________________________________________
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 2854237993 1988 K100RS SE/ABS
    

ReneZ

ReneZ
Life time member
Life time member
And here :-)


__________________________________________________
Greetings from Florida! Having a 'new' K  :cyclops:    Surprised-o: 

Rene


BMW K100 - 1985 (0030029) Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) Rain
BMW K1200GT - 2003 (ZK01223)
    

Kyle10

Kyle10
Life time member
Life time member
@Be made wrote:What I want is an oil with a higher detergent in it to reduce the sludging that occurs and jams our starter clutches up as well as one that suits the type of riding I do.

Don't be too keen on seeking high-detergent oils. Your engine needs a proper amount of zinc buildup. To wit: 
 
Detergent and dispersant additives “compete” against zinc in the engine because they are polar molecules as well. Detergents and dispersants clean the engine, but they don’t distinguish between sludge, varnish and zinc – they clean all three away.
 
source: Zinc Versus Detergent In Motor Oil (Driven Racing Oil, Inc.)
 
I work for an engine remanufacturer, one of the dominant ones in the business (est. 1975). The sourced lubricant manufacturer we employ in every engine we build and deliver. A large percentage of warranty claims relate to choice and mis/uses of lubricants in any given engine; the balance being improper installation and break-in of engine. 
 
In the interests of civility, please throw fresh vegetables.



Last edited by Kyle10 on Tue 2 Dec 2014 - 6:46; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : formatting)


__________________________________________________
1985 K100rt 0052183
1983 Honda VF750 007713 
    

japuentes

japuentes
Life time member
Life time member
@Be made wrote:What I want is an oil with a higher detergent in it to reduce the sludging that occurs and jams our starter clutches up as well as one that suits the type of riding I do.
Hi there, I solved it by flushing the engine every other oil change.
Best regards
JAP


__________________________________________________
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 2854237993 1988 K100RS SE/ABS
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@japuentes wrote:
@Be made wrote:What I want is an oil with a higher detergent in it to reduce the sludging that occurs and jams our starter clutches up as well as one that suits the type of riding I do.
Hi there, I solved it by flushing the engine every other oil change.
Best regards
JAP
What do you use to flush it with and how do you do the flush please ??

    

AL-58

AL-58
Life time member
Life time member
The Shell HX7-K (synthetic 15-50) is claimed to be a good cleaner too.

Al


__________________________________________________
'87 K100RS/HRD sidecar (1100 motor)  sc25 
'92 K100RS-16v (Paint it Black)

'87 K100RT with Paralever backend

"When I'm too old and too foolish to handle a sidecar I'll buy a Sportsbike"

Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) K-dogs10
    

tgolden

tgolden
Silver member
Silver member
A full synthetic, such as Mobil 1, is superior to conventional or blends. I've seen an example where full synthetic was able to lower the temperature of a problematic gearbox by over 200 degrees where conventional oil failed to control the temperature. Full synthetic is worth the extra cost.

Conventional oil is good for the break-in period.

If you're concerned about sludge and deposits, just change your full synthetic more frequently. I use full synthetic in everything and change oil and filter after 3k miles. The manufacturers and oil analysis will indicate that you can go farther between oil changes, but the indications of effective cleaning are present at 3k miles.


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RS USA Model WB1051300F0042533 - Original Owner
Delivery: 04/85 - Motorradhaus Ebert, Höchberg, Deutschland
    

zonenfeile

zonenfeile
Gold member
Gold member
Blah Blah

get the cheapest stuff 15/40 from the next hardwarestore or ALDI once a year

do not coddle a K


__________________________________________________
ex K1100/2

K- Wiki - or rtfm first

Regards from Hamburg

Olaf
    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
@zonenfeile wrote:Blah Blah

get the cheapest stuff 15/40 from the next hardwarestore or ALDI once a year

do not coddle a K
+1000000000000000


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

japuentes

japuentes
Life time member
Life time member
Hi there, I use a local flushing product, at oil change you pour the product on he old oil, run the engine, at idle, for 5 minutes, then change the oil as usually.
From what I've read, that's a very common product, worldwide sold under many brands
Best regards
JAP


__________________________________________________
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 2854237993 1988 K100RS SE/ABS
    

japuentes

japuentes
Life time member
Life time member
@RicK G wrote:
@zonenfeile wrote:Blah Blah

get the cheapest stuff 15/40 from the next hardwarestore or ALDI once a year

do not coddle a K
+1000000000000000E10


__________________________________________________
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 2854237993 1988 K100RS SE/ABS
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
Wow..... this has turned into a real oil thread! A very flammable subject obviously. I thought that I had written my last post in it....... but....... I have changed my mind a few times and now I have filled my K up with Shell Helix HX7 Synthetic 10w - 40w. 
  Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 212902


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
Yeah . . .and we didn't really want yet another oil thread. . . . lol . . . .

I have deliberately abstained from giving any support or opinion either way on brands etc in an effort to deflame the topic. It is pretty controversial stuff and you have all the companies feeding everyone their own brand of propaganda, along with propaganda on fuel at the pump

I don't even think the motorcycle engine manufacturers decide what to use. They probably consult the oil companies with their data first and then recommend an oil grade to suit the operating conditions of the engine, so all you will get is oil company info / propaganda anyway

Here in NZ Fully synthetic is nearly twice the price of Mineral which puts an awful lot of people off using it

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
No surprise.....in every motor forum, mention motoroil and you have a almost
everlasting thread.

So here we go again....Shell Helix HX7 Synthetic 10w - 40w....that is API SN
isn't it....have a look at post #7.......BMW doesn't approve oil after API SH.

In the Swedish BMW forum this is  stretched a bit further and it is claimed
that all up to API SM is backward compatible....but API SN should not be used
in a older engine.

Some more fuel to the fire, to keep the thread going...........


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@Inge K. wrote:No surprise.....in every motor forum, mention motoroil and you have a almost
everlasting thread.

So here we go again....Shell Helix HX7 Synthetic 10w - 40w....that is API SN
isn't it....have a look at post #7.......BMW doesn't approve oil after API SH.

In the Swedish BMW forum this is  stretched a bit further and it is claimed
that all up to API SM is backward compatible....but API SN should not be used
in a older engine.
So this then begs the question . . .

what are we all going to do when they no longer produce an oil that IS suitable for our old k's?

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
Make your own......dig out the drill from the shed and move to the backyard.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

WandererK1

WandererK1
Silver member
Silver member
@Be made wrote:
@Inge K. wrote:No surprise.....in every motor forum, mention motoroil and you have a almost
everlasting thread.

So here we go again....Shell Helix HX7 Synthetic 10w - 40w....that is API SN
isn't it....have a look at post #7.......BMW doesn't approve oil after API SH.

In the Swedish BMW forum this is  stretched a bit further and it is claimed
that all up to API SM is backward compatible....but API SN should not be used
in a older engine.
So this then begs the question . . .

what are we all going to do when they no longer produce an oil that IS suitable for our old k's?
True that it does, so which oil are you on>?  
I asked around the dealers, seems every one of them has there own preference and ideas of what to use, and there all different...
If one looks at the chart in the manuals, 10w 40 could be ok for mid climates, such as ours, but my R 1100 is on Castrol active 4T mineral 15w/50, as used by the Auckland dealer, Hamilton dealers, 2 of them, use Motul, 5100 in 10w/40 and 15w/50, semi synthetic i think... 
Not decided what to use in my K1 yet, other than a few hundred ks of riding on a mineral to give it a wash/flush out...

And yes the oil subject is a total minefield, bit like filters, and the varying prices we pay... Shocked

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
@WandererK1 wrote: Not decided what to use in my K1 yet, other than a few hundred ks of riding on a mineral to give it a wash/flush out...

You have products that is made for this purpose which you add to the oil,
I would guess these does a better job......


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@WandererK1 wrote: . . . True that it does, so which oil are you on>?  . . .
I am on Mineral 20/50, not a fanatic just going by the Haynes manual
Overall I have owned a LOT of vehicles since age 15, so, now 50 and I have always been a bit of a motor vehicle enthusiast (dad sold cars for years).

These things I DO know


  • I have never operated any vehicle with the "incorrect" grade (going against the vehicle manufacturers recommendations) in it so have never found out if an engine will fail prematurely due to using an incorrect grade
  • I have never done enough K's in any one vehicle to notice any difference when changing up brands because I have never owned any of them to have the opportunity to keep logs or inspect for wear and tear on the journals etc
  • Whenever I get a new vehicle the first things I do is change all the fluids and filters and refresh the brake pads, plugs and batteries so I know where I stand from K # 1
  • I do the servicing like clockwork
  • I know enough not to skimp on the price and to at least get a brand with a reasonably good reputation and history, like shell helix or mobil 1 etc


The Commodore I just hocked off was on 130000 ks when I got it and 338000 when I got rid of it 3.5 years later
Over that time I used Royal 10/30. The grade is recommended by Holden. The brand was one of the cheapest you can find. The reason I used it was because Holden Workshop said it was "ok" and "as good as any"
The engine compression test was good at the time of disposal and it ran like a charm, no noticable big end noise on startup or other noises at all. Seems to me it makes very little difference what price oil is used as long as it is the correct grade. This is the first vehicle in which I have kept long enough to go around the clock in

    

Be made

Be made
Life time member
Life time member
@japuentes wrote:Hi there, I use a local flushing product, at oil change you pour the product on he old oil, run the engine, at idle, for 5 minutes, then chanl as usually.
From what I've read, that's a very common product, worldwide sold under many brands
Best regards
JAP
Thanks for this. I was just wondering if there was any other tricks

Many years ago, I got told, by an old school mechanic, that the products of which you speak of were basically just diesel and that if I just put about 800ml of diesel in the motor, go for a run to warm it, then there was the flush done.

Off I went to the shop to check his theory and, sure enough, the products at least SMELLED like diesel so that's what I have been doing for every oil change I have done

What I noticed whence I began doing this was that the old oil flowed out of the engine like water. I did it once on an older Toyota Corona which was up around the 400,000 k mark and had a pretty tired engine. Seems it was relying on the varnish build up for its compression as it lost most of it after the oil change. The car was not mine and I was ordered to replace the oil with used stuff. So I did and, presto, with much winding over the thing started and regained it's compression quite quickly. Amazing to me, and I know it sounds like BS but that is exactly what happened

So I have stuck to using the deisel

    

WandererK1

WandererK1
Silver member
Silver member
Interesting stuff on the engine flush and diesel,  Not sure why but had in mind one only needed a flush on a really dirty motor...
Have never gone and looked in the likes of Repco or Supercheep at the flushes available, maybe i will, though i have already done the oil change on my K1, an the oil that came out wasn't looking very old or dirty, though time in there was unknown...  

With not having a standard motorbike wet clutch, as such, we K owners do have more le way an options for our engine oils, though the motors still have a 8,500 rpm, much higher than most car engines to contend with, for now i bought a pack of Valvoline XLD 15W40 Mineral from Supercheep to run for a few hundred kilometers as a engine flush, before going to whatever i decide to use ongoing, maybe Castrol, maybe Motul, but there are a lot of better value options through the sales that both those mentioned shops offer in there sales every month...

My uncle in Melbourne had a 2 million kilometer ford falcon, ex taxi, now i wonder what oils that had through it over time... Shocked

    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
The main thing with oil is to pick one that meets the manufacturers recommendations and stick with that brand.
When I buy a vehicle I try to find out what oil was being used but usually the PO doesn't know. I have had 2 engines fail on me due to the incorrect grade along with a brand change, both died a slow death through a lack of compression.
I use Shell because I get it at a good price not because I believe it is the best but it meets the requirements.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
the valvolene xld is a good product

yes give it a good long run ....not half an hour round the block

then do the stuff  that needs to be done


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OOil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) Au-log10

"redframe" rs "bitsa"  with many contributions from the k100 community ,,with many thanks
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
@Inge K. wrote:No surprise.....in every motor forum, mention motoroil and you have a almost
everlasting thread.
So here we go again....Shell Helix HX7 Synthetic 10w - 40w....that is API SN
isn't it....have a look at post #7.......BMW doesn't approve oil after API SH.
In the Swedish BMW forum this is  stretched a bit further and it is claimed
that all up to API SM is backward compatible....but API SN should not be used
in a older engine.
Some more fuel to the fire, to keep the thread going...........
F%&%#%ck.... I did misunderstand post #7 Inge! I am getting suicidal over motor oil, when will this end? I will have to find API SH or earlier, right? Thanks for being so patient Inge. You are obviously hardened through many oil-threads.
Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 61740


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
It won't be any problem to use the SN oil untill next change I believe, so sleep tight.
But if you use the SN oil over many years and drive it hard, I would guess it
would make a difference.

The longer you move away from SH to newer standards it is less zinc and a few
other additives.....but I think the lower amount of zinc is BMW's main concern,
and that combined with autobahn use.

But the SH is a bit problem to get, other than to classical vehicles......but I
believe that closer to the SH you get is better.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

RicK G

RicK G
VIP
VIP
OK guys eggs it is at 20 paces we'll teach you for starting another oily thread.  Next it'll be some Greek bloke telling us that olive oil is best but only if the trees are grown on a northern facing slope of a rocky outcrop. Laughing Laughing Laughing


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1993 K1100 LT, 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 for now
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
Yes indeed, the ones that grows on the south part usually have to thin viscosity
for our old engines.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

TIV

TIV
Silver member
Silver member
@RicK G wrote:OK guys eggs it is at 20 paces we'll teach you for starting another oily thread.  Next it'll be some Greek bloke telling us that olive oil is best but only if the trees are grown on a northern facing slope of a rocky outcrop. Laughing Laughing Laughing
That would be olive oil then would´t it Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 652573


__________________________________________________
1936 Harley Davidsson 750 (sold), 1964 BMW R69S (sold), 1973 Suzuki RM400 (sold), 1972 Triumph Bonneville (sold), 1971 BSA Thunderbolt (sold), 1972 BSA Lightning (sold), 1977 Yamaha XS650 (sold), 1971, BMW R75/5 (sold), 1973 BMW R75/6 (sold), 1984 BMW R100RT 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS (sold), 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (sold)
1990 BMW K75RT Ex-Police (owned now)
2004 BMW R1150RT iABS (owned now)

Cheers TIV
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
@TIV wrote:That would be olive oil then would´t it Oil (please don't throw rotten vegetables at me) 652573

Only if the soil where it's grown contains zinc.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

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