BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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gabriel


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Hi everyone
Does anyone know which grease do I use for the roller bearings in the clutch arm at the rear of the gearbox?

Regards
Gabriel

    

smithy

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Just use some moly as you would on your drive shaft splines, it's not a high speed bearing that one but is prone to water attack.


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87 K100rs : Vin 9462
86 K100rt : Vin 9901
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98 K1100lt: Vin 8044
    

gabriel


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Thanks for your reply.
I have another question. I am unable to source Never Seez for the swing arm pivots. Any suggestions?

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Gabriel

    

brickrider

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I don't believe NevrSeize is needed there. I use whatever happens to be loaded in the grease gun.

    

indian036

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@brickrider wrote:I don't believe NevrSeize is needed there. I use whatever happens to be loaded in the grease gun.
So do I, but my grease gun is always loaded with marine grease, which deals with water contact better.

Bill


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1985 K100RT Red. VIN 0028991K100RT ENG 104EA248523386
1985 K100RT Blue. VIN 0029036K100RT ENG 104EA25852071
1990 K100LT Black. VIN WB105060310190452
1984 K100RT White. VIN. 0023022K100RT ENG 104EA32848523
    

rosskko

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Are we talking about the roller beneath the rubber boot?
I have never greased mine as the boot holds the oil in that lubricates the bearing.
Or am I wrong?


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1986 K100RT VIN 0093801K100RT with summer fairing for a northern visitor

Basic/2 6308802K100CJ05/1988

K1100RS 0194321
    

RicK G

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Or am I wrong?
Yes you are wrong He He

Its the pivot bearings on the actuating arm.
As Paul said a water resistant grease for marine use or what is called cannery grease which is a high moly content and high heat and water resistant, It's usually white similar looking to the Honda moly paste used on the splines.
Called cannery grease because it's primary use is for greasing the cookers in cannerys which are a steam bath for cooking the canned product.


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

rosskko

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Ok, now are we talking about part number 8?

Or part number 2?


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1986 K100RT VIN 0093801K100RT with summer fairing for a northern visitor

Basic/2 6308802K100CJ05/1988

K1100RS 0194321
    

RicK G

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No 8 It's a pair of tiny roller bearings. I think Sidecar Paul put a grease nipple in the arm so it can be greased easily.
I seem to remember someone else making some nylon bushes in place of the bearings and a stainless pin.
I cant figure why BMW would put a roller bearing there without any seal but it does serve to keep the mechanics amused.


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

blaKey

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I tapped a grease fitting in there (I was going to say "nipple", but you lot would only start giggling like idiots...) and shoot some wheel bearing grease in there every now and then.


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Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!
K100RT 1987 (now nekkid with red bits)

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RicK G

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I said nipple and I cant hear any of the idiots people here giggling


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

indian036

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@RicK G wrote:I said nipple and I cant hear any of the idiots people here giggling
You know New South Welshmen don't listen to Queenslanders!


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RT Red. VIN 0028991K100RT ENG 104EA248523386
1985 K100RT Blue. VIN 0029036K100RT ENG 104EA25852071
1990 K100LT Black. VIN WB105060310190452
1984 K100RT White. VIN. 0023022K100RT ENG 104EA32848523
    

sidecar paul

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@RicK G wrote:No 8 It's a pair of tiny roller bearings. I think Sidecar Paul put a grease nipple in the arm so it can be greased easily.
I seem to remember someone else making some nylon bushes in place of the bearings and a stainless pin.
I cant figure why BMW would put a roller bearing there without any seal but it does serve to keep the mechanics amused.
No Rick, I bored out the operating arm and fitted a PTFE long bush with O ring seals at each end, all running on a 10mm stainless steel pin.

It's buried in a post about 'removing stubborn needle bearings' from a few years ago.



I don't need a grease nipple. :geek:

Paul.



Last edited by sidecar paul on Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:06 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : pic added)


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'84 K100RS (0014643) (owned since '85), 86 K100RS (0018891) with Martello sidecar (built as an outfit in '88),
'51 Vincent (since '67),'72 Montesa Cota (from new), '87 Honda RS125R NF4 (bought 2015)
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gabriel


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Thank you for your replies.
I was referring to the swinging arm bearings.

Regards
Gabriel

    

RicK G

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The grease I use there is the same moly grease I use on the shaft and I usually put plenty in there so it forms a bit of a protective shield of grease round the bearing where it's exposed to the elements. All the bearings in that area lead a hard life what with water. salt, sand and the occasional rock.


__________________________________________________
If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

16Back to top Go down    Muddy Flaps on Tue Aug 04, 2015 2:13 pm

touchwoodsden

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Isnt it a good idea to put a mudflap in front of the rear wheel to stop crud etc being thrown in there in the 1st place? That's what I do an all my bikes.

    

JGT

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Yes, they eventually got round to it with the K1100.


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1987 K75s 1969 Bultaco Matador
    

duck

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Having dealt with more than my fair share of Ks, I long ago reached the conclusion that those needle bearings on the clutch arm pivot rod really aren't needed. More often than not, when I deal with a used K tranny those bearings have long since seized up to the point where that rod is frozen in place and I need to pound the the pivot rod out with a nail set and small sledge hammer. Why those little needle bearings don't matter is that once that rod has seized up the clutch arm still rotates freely on the "exposed" parts of the rod. That said, whenever I do a spline lube I do pull the rod and put some fresh marine bearing grease in there on the theory that it can't hurt.


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S
14 Yamaha WR250R
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

floyd

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Anyone in Oz done the teflon liner mod?

Looks like Munich Motorcycles have one they sell, but it looks like you need to buy 2 (in the pic it looks like the same length as the needle bearings) and they are $30 each! Damn!

Wonder if bearing shops would stock something suitable? Would the dimensions be identical to the roller bearings?

http://www2.munichmotorcycles.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=732


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K100 with lots of K1100 bits - mongrel of a thing...
    

WoodyAUK75

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I thought I would resurrect this old thread rather than start a new one, as this one is relevant.
I have just snapped another clutch cable after only two years. The first two lasted over five years each, so I figure that I may as well look at what could be causing extra wear on the cables.
I have removed the actuating arm. Can anyone tell me if the bearings are able to be pressed out? I tried to punch one side out, but have been left with the outside shell still in the hole. I don't want to put it in the press if they are in recesses in the end of the hole and will just crush. The parts dia shows no spacer in the middle, but then the parts dia shows only one bearing and circlip, so I am not sure if they are different for different models. Mine is 1993 K75s.
Also, the lever (Handle bar end, with the cable removed) seems to have a lot of play up and down. Has anyone replaced the bush in this before?

    

RicK G

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AFAIK thet just press in till they are level with the end of the hole and they are the same from start to end of production.
Having a floppy lever can make the inner bind in the lever perch and that makes them break and you need to lubricate the barrel at the top nipple or it wont turn and breaks the cable right at the barrel.


__________________________________________________
If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

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