My 92 K75 recently started leaking oil from the weep hole in front of the oil pan so I am rebuilding my oil pump.  I have removed the cover and bolts holding the housing in place but I'm having difficulty getting the housing broken loose from the engine.  I have tapped on it using a wood block but I'm afraid to hit it too hard.  I'm sure the pump has never been removed from the bike so the gasket compound is probably what was used at the factory.  Any tricks to removing this thing without causing damage to the housing or the mating surfaces?  I have a Clymer manual that shows the bolt locations pretty clearly so unless there is one that is hidden somehow I'm sure I have them all removed.

Also, are there any recommendations for gasket compound when I reassemble?

Thanks.

There is one bolt that is well hidden, up the top there are 2 bolts in the V shaped bit and one right up top right. There should be 7 including the 2 internal long ones.
The 2 arrows point to the ones that cant be seen on this pic and the dots the five others

Any good gasket cement will do. Two bits of advice:

1. make sure both surfaces are clean, flat and dry
2. use the minimum amount of gasket cement. A thin smear the whole way round will do the job nicely. Too much and you risk dropping bits into the coolant system. That's not quite as bad as dropping it into the engine mind...

Between the engineblock and the oilsump you find a halfmoon shaped hole,
take care so you don't block it with sealant (oil return).
It's easy to overlook this small hole, and if it is blocked...a leak is guaranteed.

The gasket material used by BMW is 3Bond, an anaerobic sealant (cures in the absence of oxygen). It bonds very tightly and may require persuasion to loosen. A plastic mallet or wooden block should break that bond.

When resealing, use an anaerobic sealant like Loctite 515 Master Gasket after first priming the spotlessly clean mating surfaces with Loctite Primer T. There can't be any trace whatsoever of the previous gasket material. Clean with acetone and a mild scotch brite scrub or wooden stick so thar it doesn't mar the surface with scratches. Any other gasket material won't hold up to the oil pressure that particular joint experiences. Inge K. has had good luck with a silicone based sealant, Permatex Blue RTV. I've successfully used Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker #51813.

I found the last bolt and the housing separated from the engine block no problem.  I found the half-moon shaped opening and will be careful to keep it free of sealant when I put it back together.  Got home late last night so I haven't totally disassembled it yet but so far the shafts look good.  Thanks for the info on gasket compounds.

I will order parts in the next couple of days and I see where there is a special tool available that is used to install the slip-ring seal.  The manual I have says you can use a socket but I don't want to mess the part up with a makeshift tool.  Do you guys use the BMW tool or do you recommend getting it?

One other thing...should I go ahead and replace the piston and compression spring?

I use a socket that just fits over the body onto the flange then put it in the vice and wind it in. Special tools needed "0" success rate 100%.  now watch the next one break