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1Back to top Go down    replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 3:47 am

k100newbie

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Hi all just wondering if when replacing the rear main if the output shaft nut has to be a new one each time of whether it be reused thanks

    

2Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 5:17 am

RicK G

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BMW say replace it but I never have and so far no clutches spinning away into orbit or anywhere else


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If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

3Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 5:19 am

smithy

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It should really be replaced each time it's removed, but I have heard that the splits in the nut can be pried open so the nut can be reused. That nut is only cheap, so I would just replace it.


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87 K100rs : Vin 9462
86 K100rt : Vin 9901
Naked
98 K1100lt: Vin 8044
    

4Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 7:00 am

Ed

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looks like I'll be going in to search out an oil leak amongst the clutch casing shortly . I'm thinking it is the rear main seal.
what should I be purchasing for this little adventure. There is an an advantage of having PMS at the moment , at least some serious maintenance can take place. just not as much play time outdoors.


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1987 K100RT Ex- police
1989 K100LT Ol' Blue and "Kart" the Kamper trailer. now KAPUT .
1993 K1100RS 0194321 Colour #690 Silk Blue aka" Smurfette"
    

5Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 7:12 am

smithy

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You will need the nut that we were just talking about plus the O ring behind the nut & washer in the clutch housing, the rear main seal , and it would be a good idea to order 6 new clutch retaining bolts and lock washers.
A lot of the time you find that the rear main seal is fine, and it's just the O ring that's leaking, but a good idea to change both while your there.


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87 K100rs : Vin 9462
86 K100rt : Vin 9901
Naked
98 K1100lt: Vin 8044
    

6Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Sun May 03, 2015 7:15 am

charlie99

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more likely the oring around the output shaft ...which goes hard ed ..and a bugger to remove unless you break it up with a very fine screwdriver or some such ...so it breaks away in sections

but whilst your in there, might as well linish the shaft for a good surface to wear into and replace the output seal as well


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
    

7Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 12:29 am

rawdonball

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Hey Charles99

I am at that point with one of mine. Will you remind me what you do your 'linishing' with?

Also - a guy called Vince here in Perth who rebuilds mainly Old R series bikes - told me that he always installs the new O ring with a loctite brand of silicone sealant. I wondered if you or anyone else would like to comment as to how this fits with your own experience? Personally I am not in favour as I plan to re use the original nut with loctite thread lock and I don't want to risk getting anything on the shaft threads after I have cleaned these with meths prior to installing clutch housing.


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'88 K100RT, '86 K75C, '05 Yamaha TTR250
    

8Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 12:36 am

RicK G

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I have done quite a few and never seen the need for anything other than a new O-ring.
I clean the area where the seal runs with a scotchbrite pad and if you can feel any groove or lip with your fingernail then replace the clutch carrier with a good one.


__________________________________________________
If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

9Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 1:14 am

rawdonball

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Rick - I've only been an Ozzie for 8 years so I Googled Scotch Brite Pad!

Are you talking about the - usually green - pad for hand cleaning of pots (for example). They market a wire wool which they also refer to as a pad - the one I have to use every time my dear wife forgets something on the stove.....


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'88 K100RT, '86 K75C, '05 Yamaha TTR250
    

10Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 1:36 am

RicK G

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The green ones are the go but if my wife burns the porridge then she cleans the mess Laughing
Did you know that the word porridge is derived from 3 other words Putrid horrid sludge.


__________________________________________________
If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

11Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 4:06 am

rawdonball

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"I clean the area where the seal runs with a scotchbrite pad and if you can feel any groove or lip with your fingernail then replace the clutch carrier with a good one."

To drag you away from the porridge issue Rick - can I conclude from the above that you are not comfortable with the practice of installing the new seal to a depth that is just slightly less than that to which the original seal was installed?


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'88 K100RT, '86 K75C, '05 Yamaha TTR250
    

12Back to top Go down    Re: replacing k100 rear main seal on Wed May 06, 2015 6:40 am

RicK G

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Some more of the story of the 0.5mm has surfaced and apparently it is because the new seal runs the lip at a different spot unless installed as said.
I have been using a seal that is 80mm x 50mm x 8mm "Viton" where the OEM is 10mm. I remember checking where the lip runs in relation to the OEM and it was about 1mm different but whether it was in or out (more likely out) I don't recall so all I do is make it flush and that has worked well for me. The 8mm seal works out about $12 cheaper than Motobins.


__________________________________________________
If everything seems under control then you aint goin fast enough:- Mario Andretti
Bikes 1986 K100RT, 1993 K1100 LT, 1994 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki X 2 & 1976 SR 500 Yamaha for now
    

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