New throttle body manifolds are installed. Bike ran great. As for the injectors I can't really tell much difference. I was riding around town yesterday and the dang starter crapped out, got a new one on the way, so just another wait for parts. Honestly was expecting the starter to give. The contacts on it are seriously thin. The first time I took it out I used 1000 grit sand paper to clean the contacts and it's been eating brushes ever since. I know, stupid, but at the time I didn't know better, someone told me to clean the contacts and I did. Another lesson learned the hard way. That was in July 2008.

I now have a rebuilt starter new fuel lines, new computer, new spark plugs, new FPR, new intake manifold rubbers, new battery, and the darn bike is now doing the same thing that caused me to start this thread, oh yeah, new vacuum lines. I got about four hundred miles out of it before all this started again. The difference this time is I noticed when it is running the low fuel light, my bike has a yellow light and a red light, not sure what the yellow light is for, it has never worked and the red light has remained lit the entire time I have owned this bike, but it now brightens and dims as I increased or decrease throttle, it seems I recall that happeneing just before it failed the first time. Is there some switching or relay, or something that is effected by those indicators? To clarify, the bike is turning over and fuel is flowing into the cylinders and of course flooding but it is not firing, unless I unplug the electrical connector on the fuel tank. It starts and throttles with that connector unplugged but as soon as you plug it back in the engine stalls.

I have just reread this thread for an update. I am quite sure the electrical ignition system is good but I am not sure if you have the original injectors or the refurbished 4 hole ones?

This won't help one bit, well, except to perhaps provoke a smile. I once had an Austrian/Hungarian girlfriend named Brigitte. She never said frustration like that. Instead it came out like 'froost ration'. As far as I know she didn't live for that long behind the Iron Curtain.

Oh well, I'm just a dumb electrician in Omaha Nebraska, I don't even know if I spelled it correctly, hehe.

Right now I'm looking for poor connections, The indicator lights changing intensity has me thinking there is a poor ground somewhere.

I was certain it was a fuel problem but considering the work you've done on fuel supply and injection, I'm starting to rule that out and think electrical. However, one thing I don't think you've done is actually measure the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If that came back at 36psi then you could positively rule out fuel.

Another thing you've not mentioned is what SPs you have in ther as you did change them originally. Couldn't see anywhere about what you replaced them with. You might be getting a spark but its difficult to determine the quality of that spark when they're out.
If you have the original BMW SP caps then you must have the connectors screwed on top of the SP for proper connection.
I'm starting to think HT electrics. Would be worth measuring impedance on the leads and coils and check and clean connections from the ICU. There's also an earth connection on the coils.

A search of the forum and a lot of reading and came up with 2 cases which described the same symptoms. One ended without conclusion but the other found a solution... hall effect sensor.
It was the sensor itself and no the usual failure of the insulation under heat that we normally see.
Here's the post where he came up with the solution and the testing.


You just need to find another ignition timing assembly to swap and test this out.

I took the tank off last evening, again, I was of the idea that I had a bad ground, as temperature does not seem to affect wether or not the bike runs or not. The dimming and brightening lights in the gauge cluster made me think, bad ground. Anyway, I noticed a small connector with two yellow wires labeled choke, and that was connected to a male end connector that had two green and green/something wires. I followed the choke switch wire down from the handlebars and realized It was not connected to the other end that was labeled choke. I took the end labeled choke and the wire from the choke switch and connected them, and then connected the other two connectors, I don't know what they are, but I think maybe temperature sensor, together. I put the tank back on and pushed the start button and the bike started and ran normally. I let I run for about 15 minutes, to warm up thoroughly, and shut it off. waited five minutes and started it again, it ran normally. I then went and ate some dinner and came back and started it again, it started and ran normally. This morning Iwent down to the shop and started the bike, It starts and runs normally. I'm not sure I found but I think the choke switch has been connected to the temperature sensor. I might be an idiot after all.

The choke switch was plugged into the heated handgrip connector.  Since the handgrip circuit is connected with both the headlight and load shed circuits, it would have played havoc with the lighting and starting, for sure.

The neat thing about BMW wiring is that the wire colours match on both sides of a connector. So, you can visually tell if a connector is correct by looking to see that the wire colours match. BMW utilizes the same connector type in several places throughout the harness, but they normally are distant enough that you can't mix them up. This case and the connectors under the right battery cover are two locations where connectors can get misplugged. I always double check when working in these two areas.

That's brilliant you found the problem. Now you just need to work on your self esteem Just joking  
I was going to say it wouldn't have been the temp sensor as I don't think there's a connector for that.
You can now disregard my previous post. 

So your now doing all that super gruvvy stuff like riding it???????

I believe, at last, I have this thing sorted out. I took it out today and put on about 250 miles. It is running very strong, no hesitations no misses and good solid start ups. All of the dash indicator lights are functioning properly, with exception of the fuel light, as I have mentioned before it has never functioned properly. So now preparing it for a trip to Paonia, Colorado on the 17th July. It is the Top of the Rockies Rally put on by the Colorado BMW Motorcycle club. I've missed the last three years, but previously attended the rally annually. The riding out there is beautiful and with the bike in its 'Cafe" version, with all the weight loss, I'm really excited to run through black canyon. That is a really fun road right along the edge of, well, a canyon, near Gunnison Colorado. It's beautiful country out there and I can't wait. Anyway, I've designed and constructed a luggage rack the slips into the cut off ends of the frame and sits above the tail piece on the cafe seat. I'll put up a picture or two later in case there's anyone else out there that wants to tour on a Kafe K.






Don't laugh, it only took two hours to cut and weld the thing together. This ain't no beauty contest, just has to haul stuff.

Now I just need to get to the finish work on the bike frame, The previous issues put aethetics on hold for a bit.

That is a good idea. All you need now is a couple of rubber bungs to stop water getting in and corroding the frame when the rack is off.

I have a pair of turn signals I bought to put in the openings. When I got the Cafe bug I kinda forgot that I tour alot and my stock panniers wouldn't work after I cut it. I got a pair of nylon saddlebags on amazon but then realized I need a rack, so the turn indicators won't be getting installed there after all. You are right though, I never really thought about the water issue with the frame ends open like that. I sometimes make rash decisions and have to come up with work arounds later. Keeps the brain excercised I guess.
This was by Bike in 2010, The diamond plate on the fairing is basically holding it together. I couldn't seem to keep one of those to stay in one piece. This one is number three. That's part of the reason for the radical shift to cafe style

Why the heck are my pictures coming out sideways?

You've probably taken them with an Iphone and the EXIF data attached to the picture is causing the forum software to orient it that way.  See if you can fix up the orientation in a picture manipulation program like Paint or Infranview.