Hey Guys,

So I've managed to pull the final drive and swing arm off but my drive shaft is pretty stuck. Videos I've seen on you tube show it coming off easily but not so for me. Is the some trick? Hit it with a hammer? Swear at it? 

Thanks

Grab it with vice grips on the end and hit it back with a hammer. Just be careful how you let the shaft angle down like you have it. It could damage the uni joint. Give it some support while you remove it.

I put a strip of wet n dry 320 grit paper, grit on metal and gripped with locking pliers then whacked, er, gently tapped the pliers with a rubber hammer, backwards that is.

Sounds good. So basic approach is:

ya got the basic idea.... just wind it down a little.

If you need to do something and there is a big guy standing around in a red cape, do what he would do...

I found the first time that I took the shaft out of my K75 (swingarm was still on) I was not having much success with the aforementioned method ............. until I put a piece of soft wood  at the rear end of the shaft and gave it a firm hit (just one) forwards, then the next tap on the pliers towards the rear freed it.

Good luck.

thanks guys, will have a shot at it tonight and report the progress/breakages.

One thing I didn't see mentioned above.  When you have the vise grips on the end of the shaft make sure the shaft is as closely in line with the output splines on the transmission when you whack the vise grips.

My slightly less kinetic method (worked for me several times without issue) is to put a crowbar/pinchbar/jemmy/insert-local-variation-of-the-tool-here against the front side of the universal joint. Hold onto the drive shaft and gently apply effort to the crowbar (push the free end of the crowbar gently forward using the gearbox casing as the fulcrum) and the shaft just very easily pops out. No vice grip marks on the shaft, no mashed fingers from missed hammer blow and practically no effort at all. A lot less chance of damage IMHO. If you want to be a purist, then put some soft wood/cardboard packing between the crowbar and the universal joint and between the crowbar and the gearbox casing to avoid marking it - but in my experience, this has not been an issue.

Good luck

+1 on the above. Any sort of hit with a hammer or such you risk bruising the case hardening on the Uni joint and failure down the line.

Of course, to use my method, you need to remove the swing arm so you can access the universal joint...
Worth doing anyway if only to clean up the bearings and check the gaitors and get to the GPI switch (while you're in there).

I'm with BAE and Rick. Spending a couple of minutes (if that) taking the swingarm off allows you to do any needed maintenance on the pivots too. Or, in my case on LFB, cussing and heaving for half-an-hour trying to break the corrosion seal on the right-hand pivot with an eighteen-inch water pipe wrench. I got there... eventually. The pivot still has the battle scars.

@Dai wrote:...in my case on LFB, cussing and heaving for half-an-hour trying to break the corrosion seal on the right-hand pivot with an eighteen-inch water pipe wrench...

That was my first experience of getting the critter out too, Dai. 

I've not had a problem since, hence the benefit of applying a little extra effort and taking the swing arm off and then spending a few minutes cleaning things up and adding a little smear of grease where needed. A few minutes "while you're in there" can pay big dividends later on, especially if that 18" wrench is not conveniently to hand. It is also refreshingly pleasing when doing the job the next time and the pivot just slides smoothly out, leaving you feeling all smug and self contented with yourself (or the caring PO - thanks Stephen)!!