BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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half brick

half brick
Silver member
Silver member
My front wheel is not sitting central and the disc rivets are hitting the right fork.

I had the wheel off and forks removed, the wheel span fine (I think) before this. I bought it as a project so haven't ridden it.

I followed the procedure in the haynes manual, including the spacers in the correct sides, orientation and bolt torque.

I have included pictures, can anyone help?

Thanks

Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 20160325_184753_zpsmawkgk7t
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 20160325_184706_zpslnboyo7m
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 20160325_184643_zpss3mcqmqc
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 20160325_184635_zpsjurewii7
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 20160325_184654_zpsdoqfj0v4


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K100 LT 1989
    

Howard64180

Howard64180
active member
active member
Is the spindle a tight fit in the right hand fork leg?  It could be binding in there and pulling the leg inwards as you tighten the spindle.

If the spindle and the inside of the leg are clean and things are moving freely, the forks need bouncing before tightening the pinch bolts in order to align the legs.  If you haven't fitted the brakes, perhaps you could push the wheel against a wall and bounce the forks that way.

On one K I had the tyre garage didn't do this when they re-fitted the wheel (I do my own usually, this was a lazy day), which made the brakes bind.

    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
Callipers must be installed, then apply the brakes and then compress the suspension a couple of times before you tighten first the axle and then the clamp bolts (the r/h fork is floating and must be tightened last). This helps to align the forks both axialy and radialy. I like to rotate the axle a ¼ turn 2 or 3 times to make sure the forks are seated and located correctly on the axle before tightening the fork clamp bolts. I can see in your last photo that the r/h fork is pushed slightly in towards the wheel along the axle.

When you go to fit the callipers, you'll find the forks (particularly the right one) will probably need rotating very slightly to get the disc into the caliper. Before the clamp bolts are tightened there is enough play between the forks and the axle for them to do this.


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1989 K100RT     VIN  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN  0451808
 Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Do you have the wheel on the right way?  Please don't ask me why I mention it.  How about your spacers?


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Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
half brick wrote:
I followed the procedure in the haynes manual, including the spacers in the correct sides, orientation and bolt torque.
You don't have the brake calipers fitted so it will be impossible to properly align the forks. The Haynes assumes that the calipers are already inplace as its not necessary to remove them to take the front wheel off, but does say to "refit the calipers where applicable".
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork Axle_i10

The r/h fork has clearly not been positioned properly.Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork Axle_g10


__________________________________________________

1989 K100RT     VIN  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN  0451808
 Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
if you have painted any of the parts there could be binding of the axel to the fork drawing it closer to the centre ...as you tightened up the bolt at the left hand end of the axel ?

possibly try cleaning the axel at the right hand end ...and if any paint has coagulated inside the fork leg where the axel passes .

or try spreading the lower clamping mechanism of the right hand fork so it slides well over the axel, almost freely ? it should be a nice fit ...not a too tight fit

I would undo the whole lot and dry fit the axel only to the forks to get a feel to how it all feels without the weight of the wheel ... it all should go together without too much binding anywhere .

just some thoughts


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cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

Howard64180

Howard64180
active member
active member
On my current K the spindle was binding in the right hand fork leg due to slight corrosion.  It was OK after a good clean up.

    

half brick

half brick
Silver member
Silver member
Had a look in the axle holes in the forks, there is some paint there from previous owner so will remove it.

Didn't realise about the calipers, I'll need to wait till I get my brake lines made to align the front then, thanks for all replies.

As an aside, how does the front mudguard go in and out without scraping the sides on the forks?

I have tried it sideways ect. but it always touches the forks.


__________________________________________________
K100 LT 1989
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
It doesn't, but BMW paint seems to be pretty tough stuff as even some serious abuse with a fist on the mudguard failed to scrape it. If you're worried about scrapes then try putting a thin piece of cloth between the mudguard and the forklegs when replacing it.


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1983 K100 naked upgraded to K100LT spec after spending time as an RS and an RT
1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork Tape10


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Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
Front wheel not sitting central, disc rivets hitting fork 44271


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"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1999 K1100 LT with a Big Block 1200
    

rawdonball

rawdonball
Gold member
Gold member
+1 for Chaz suggestion ref trial fit tent of axle only after clean up. Try fitting the large diameter end of the axle to the right hand fork leg only for starters - I.e axle reversed as this removes any issue of alignment of the two fork axle bores while undertaking this trial fittment


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'88 K100RT, '86 K75C, '05 Yamaha TTR250
    

half brick

half brick
Silver member
Silver member
I removed the paint from the fork legs, axle now slides as it should.

I'll use tape for putting the mudguard in, thought I was missing a trick, thanks.


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K100 LT 1989
    

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