92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Number of posts : 7943
I did my last one a few months back.
The original lines are clipped with clips that you can't easily remove, I used stainless steel worm drive clips when I did the replacements so its possible to get them off with just a screwdriver.
'Remove air box' as Clymer says all sounds so simple, if only. You only need the bottom half out of the way but.....the top half will just lift out of the way so no problem there. The bottom half has 2 Allen bolts [6mm?] into the top of the crank case. After 32 years they don't want to come out easily and if you totally bugger them up you end up having to cut off the bottom half of the air box. Fine if you have a spare. So, try and get lots and lots of WD40 or something in there to ease the removal for quite a few times before you finally go at it. Two access routes, one from top where the air filter slides in, second is through the air intake pipe out the right hand side of the airbox which you will need to remove. For getting the bolts out you really need access to both. One of mine was tight and I did manage to get a visegrip onto. If you bugger the bolts just nick one off some other part of the bike. Copper grease on them before they go back and don't lose the washers etc that seem to be UNDER the airbox as in between the airbox and the crank case. With that out of the way you have enough room to get at the Fuel Pressure Regulator [FPR] to get the 2 pipes off it.
You do need tank out of the way as you don't want petrol around you and it allows the top of the airbox to lift up out of your way enough to get in there. BUT be very careful removing the lines from the tank. It will most likely piddle fuel everywhere so let it be run very low before going at it. Tank should be put on some cloth or carpet but don't have it resting on the spigots, lay on side with some cloth covered wood under the left side. The spigots under that tank CAN break off and for bad luck watch the spigots on the fuel rail too, you could have concealed corrosion there and too much brute force could break them. I didn't worry too much as I had a nice clean spare rail in the shed.
The standard BMW line is 8/13mm and they sell it in a meter length, plenty for all the lines.
The pipe nearest the radiator has/should have insulation sleeved over it that you can slip off and reuse.
As with everything other jobs when you are in there with tank off.... new crank case vent pipe which does perish and fail, also replace the vacuum line from the no 4 intake that goes back to the FPR.
When you get the lines all back in place on the fuel rail and on the FPR and the clips sorted it's time for a mug of tea and clean out the earths and electrical connections under the fuel tank.......
Pay close attention to the fuel pump plug at the front left of the tank on the bolt down tank, look for signs of arcing and close up the connections on the bike plug a little to make sure its a good tight fit going back so you get a good electrical connection.
I would pop the tank back on before putting the air box back and test the running to make sure of no fuel leaks anywhere but especially around FPR as you wont get back in easily. Once that's all good you know your electrical connections are good and pop the tank back.
Of course while you are doing this easy to consider new air filter and new fuel filter while you have the tank off and then go the rest of the way and do all the fluids because you have access to the radiator too..........
Even better is that if the darn clutch cable has been stiff its now going to be so easy to replace it........
After that you go for a test ride and wonder 'how amazingly good the K feels after just changing the fuel lines'.
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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles.
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles
Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500