I'm looking to put an after market speedometer on my bike, currently like this one: 
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/black-acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-and-tachometer.html

I know theres a neutral start lock out or something I have to figure out, does anyone have suggestions or diagrams. 

I wouldn't actually take this on, except my speedometer and tachometer have both stopped functioning, after a couple years of intermittent function, and the gas gauge has never worked since I've owned the bike. I've read that the Speed sensor is not available anymore so, just trying to come up with an alternative.

You say 'intermittant function'. Daft question - have you tried taking them apartr and cleaning the contacts (spikes) that hold the whole lot together?

Yeah I've had it apart a number of times, the problems still persists. The speedometer doesn't work at all and the tac just goes up and down, and not in relation to motor revs, it goes all the way to the max and then drops all the way back to zero, up and down, the whole time the bike is running, even at idle. the motorcycle has 103,268 miles on it, so it doesn't seem all too crazy to think they are just worn out. I have a buddy who has been riding his K100rs for five or six years just using a gps to monitor speed, because his was doing the same thing, his bike has 160,000 or so miles on it. I however would like to get and install a new type as I have altered the physical appearance of the bike considerably." />

sure wish i could figure out why my photos always turn out sideways as well

For the speed sensor get a K1100 and change the plug. As for sideways photos are you using an iPhone, that seems to be the problem most of the time. Please dont ask me how to fix it as I don't have an iPhone.

I use my iPhone to take photos when out and about. I typically upload the photos I want to use on the forum direct to servimg.com from the phone. If it comes out sideways on servimg.com I then go to Edit in Photos on the iphone, turn the photo 90 degrees and save it, then edit it again and turn it back to how I want it and save again. When uploaded to servimg.com it will be how you want it.

Sounds like a bit of messing around but once you've worked it out it only takes a couple of seconds. This doesn't happen on every photo and I have never bothered to try to work out why it happens once I had the work around.

I then typically do my posts from a computer at home or from the iPad if I'm travelling.

Cheers

6strings wrote:I'm looking to put an after market speedometer on my bike, currently like this one: 
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/black-acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-and-tachometer.html

I know theres a neutral start lock out or something I have to figure out, does anyone have suggestions or diagrams. 

I wouldn't actually take this on, except my speedometer and tachometer have both stopped functioning, after a couple years of intermittent function, and the gas gauge has never worked since I've owned the bike. I've read that the Speed sensor is not available anymore so, just trying to come up with an alternative.

robmac in here has the lockout - gpi decoder circuit already made for such devices

not hard at all to incorporate at all

have a look around with the search engine ....

or have a look here https://www.k100-forum.com/t4708-gear-indicator-for-aftermarket-speedometer-and-other-circuits

there have been a few discussions on gear decoding for the neutral switch function
including using a r1100 ? switch assembly on the gearbox  to simplify matters

but I recon robs solutions are the simplest to hand  so far

There's a thread in the cafe build section that deals with installing this speedo. https://www.k100-forum.com/t2611-my-k100-cafe-racer-project-story.  Should get you most of the way there. I installed this unit on my bike following these instructions. I didn't build the neutral light circuit with relays. Instead I purchased a circuit board from Robmac that took care of that (and also reads the stock gear position indicator to tell you what gear you are in). He may be sold out now...not sure, but I think I got the last one of his most recent run. 

Two things are missing from the thread, though. First, you may need an "exciter" light (or, alternatively, some resistors) to get the alternator working. There are other threads about this. In my case my alternator had enough residual magnetism to work without the exciter light, but I've been told that that's not a sure thing. I ultimately put one in after the fact. 

Second, I couldn't get the tacho to work properly. It jumped all over the place. I eventually built a filter circuit for it. I found the instructions on the motobrick forum at http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?  topic=6814.0. I used the circuit in reply 4. The simpler one in reply 2 of that thread gave only limited success (though I understand it has worked for some). 

Good luck!

KJustin wrote:Instead I purchased a circuit board from Robmac that took care of that (and also reads the stock gear position indicator to tell you what gear you are in). He may be sold out now...not sure, but I think I got the last one of his most recent run. 

I'm producing more boards.  I have parts stocked again and am working through the soldering and testing.  Takes me about 1 evening per board to build and test; slow going. This is my "electronics workbench" where I build the boards, if interested:

I am interested, let me know when you have them ready. I would certainly want to purchase one if they are not spoken for already

Still haven't installed the speedo and the PCB I got from Robmack. I guess it'll be a winter project. I got sidetracked when I unexpectedly ran across a great deal on a 1996 R1100R that had been converted to a R1100GS. Paid $1000 for it, and although I need to work on the ABS system some, the bike is a riot, I can't believe how much torque it has, I've never ridden any R models other than the 1982 R65 I used to own, It was a powerless little thing.

Greetings.  Reviving a thread here.  I'll be installing new gauges on my cafe/brat K100 as soon as I figure out which unit I should get.  Nothing wrong with the old gauges, as far as I know, other than being enormous ("brick" could just as easily describe that unit).  Looking through this thread, I see that wiring new gauges could be pretty involved.  Can anyone tell me if they've had success with any particular unit?  Is there anything I should look for in a new unit?  Longer wires would seem to be a bonus.  
Thanks!