charlie99
VIP
Number of posts : 11700
would be a bit tricky ...as you have to pull the springs and lifters , collets etc ...I have read of a technique that involves using some rope down the spark plug hole to fill the bore between the piston and the valves - combustion chamber and very slowly advancing the piston up to fill the gap ...obviously with out to much pressure...then you might be able to pull the seals without dropping a valve somewhere sensitive ....but generally the stem of the valve is sufficiently long enough to manage doing the job ...as long as the piston is near tdc before starting on that cylinder ...you would need a long tube spanner to punch the seals home over the valve stem onto the guides though ...from memory about 11- 12 mm .
I would still worry about that accidental impact though ..so the rope thingy might give some cushioning
a bit tricky
but why don't you pull the head an resurface the seats and valve faces ...I would expect that the exhaust valves will be pitted badly to start with ..usually with good regression ..that needs resurfacing to seal properly
I would expect that with the nicasil bore and rings that they would need some work to clear the build up of crap around the ring lands and let themn start to seal better ..rather than running on the varnish of yesteryear inside it all .
if your thinking about doing the resurfacing of the valve faces ...get the machinist to "top the valves" by about 10 thou , if they do the cutting right to seats and valves 10 thou could be about right to keep near valve clearances near original ...very helpful not to have to be chasing new shims for the clearances...takes a real pro to get that right --first time .
good luck
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'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
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1987 k100rs ######## "Red" - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637 "Black Betty" (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )