BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
K100RS4Vs, K1s and 92/93 K1100s have an ignition amp that attaches to the front left of the battery tray. When the heat sink compound between the ignition amp and the battery tray deteriorates over time the ignition amp gets too hot and causes the bike to run poorly when things warm up.

Preventative maintenance: Go to a local electronics store and buy a small tube of heat sink compound. Take the ignition amp off of the front of the battery tray and thoroughly clean off all of the old heat sink compound. (Use steel wool or a wire brush.) Put a nice healthy dose of fresh heat sink compound on the back of the ignition amp and reassemble. 

This has been known to cause the above mentioned K models to run very poorly once they warm up and, if you don't know about this, you could waste LOTS of time and money trying to figure out why in the heck your K is running like crap.

This is inexpensive and very easy preventative maintenance. I'd guess 50K miles or every few years is a good maintenance interval for this. If you're doing a spline lube then you have to pull the battery tray off anyhow so that's also a good time to do this.

Most overlooked preventative maintenance on early 4Vs (K100RS4V, K1, 1993 K1100) 4V.Ignition.Amp

This does not apply to 94+ K1100s as the ignition system on those bikes does not utilize an ignition amp.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

RicK G

RicK G
admin
admin
First time I did mine the heat sink compound was a crumbling mess, one really hot day and it would have frittered.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki
    

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Thank you Duck that's awesome advice. Pity I have just put her all back together but at least if I have an issue I know where I'll be going first!


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 175,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
Metholated spirits will shift the old heatsink crap too. It's what I use for cleaning CPUs in PCs. A citrus-based screen cleaner works too, surprisingly enough.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

5Back to top Go down   Most overlooked preventative maintenance on early 4Vs (K100RS4V, K1, 1993 K1100) Empty ???? Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:17 pm

ffbikersa

ffbikersa
Life time member
Life time member
@duck wrote:K100RS4Vs, K1s and 92/93 K1100s have an ignition amp that attaches to the front left of the battery tray. When the heat sink compound between the ignition amp and the battery tray deteriorates over time the ignition amp gets too hot and causes the bike to run poorly when things warm up.

Excuse me for my poor (continental European) command of these terms - "ignition amp" ??? Amplifier? Can someone post an image of this part?

I have a K 1100 RS that was produced in 03/1993, so I guess my bike has this too

    

Motorbike Mike

Motorbike Mike
Life time member
Life time member
@RicK G wrote:First time I did mine the heat sink compound was a crumbling mess, one really hot day and it would have frittered.
That's so true Rick. I came across the exact same thing when I had to move the amplifier on my first version Flying Brick.

Most overlooked preventative maintenance on early 4Vs (K100RS4V, K1, 1993 K1100) _vdc2410

    

BobT

BobT
Life time member
Life time member
@ffbikersa wrote:
@duck wrote:K100RS4Vs, K1s and 92/93 K1100s have an ignition amp that attaches to the front left of the battery tray. When the heat sink compound between the ignition amp and the battery tray deteriorates over time the ignition amp gets too hot and causes the bike to run poorly when things warm up.

Excuse me for my poor (continental European) command of these terms - "ignition amp" ??? Amplifier? Can someone post an image of this part?

I have a K 1100 RS that was produced in 03/1993, so I guess my bike has this too
Don't have a picture, but you cannot miss it, it is attached to the front left side of the battery tray.

    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
@ffbikersa wrote:


Excuse me for my poor (continental European) command of these terms - "ignition amp" ??? Amplifier? Can someone post an image of this part?

I have a K 1100 RS that was produced in 03/1993, so I guess my bike has this too

I posted this picture when I started this thread. Don't know what happened to it.

Most overlooked preventative maintenance on early 4Vs (K100RS4V, K1, 1993 K1100) 4v_ign10


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

RicK G

RicK G
admin
admin
It bolts to the front of the battery cradle Tarik also make sure the small earth wire from the battery cradle to the engine is good.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki
    

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Could this be my problem? After sorting the temperature sensor yesterday, I took the bike for a short run around the block to find some grass to test the ABS was all tickity boo. It is. However the engine will not idle when hot and constantly stalls when revs are low, like coming to a standstill. Pull the clutch and she stalls. Bike will start again no problem and is not running rough at all. Just won't idle. I had the panel that the ignition amp is attached to powder coated (along with a heap of other stuff) and have not refitted the ignition amp with any heat sink compound. The amp came away from the panel easily enough when I removed it and I simply bolted it back on later. Could this be a possible cause of lack of idle when hot? I do not believe the problem was there before I started the rebuild although I cannot confirm this.


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 175,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

RicK G

RicK G
admin
admin
Quite possible and remove the powder coating where the amp sits as it will not transfer the heat very well then reseat using the heat sink compound


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki
    

Ringfad

Ringfad
Life time member
Life time member
And make sure the plug is fully seated. Don't ask me how I know.


__________________________________________________
Most overlooked preventative maintenance on early 4Vs (K100RS4V, K1, 1993 K1100) Ir-log10

   ;BMW; K100RS Style Black 1987 105K Km     ;BMW; K1 Black 1993 60K Km     ;BMW;     K1100LT (Swiss) now a RS
    

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Thank you for the replies and the heads up on removing the powder coat. Yes, I too have fallen foul of the odd 'don't ask me how I know' trick a few times over the years, as I guess we all do when we tinker with our machines.


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 175,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
@RicK G wrote:Quite possible and remove the powder coating where the amp sits as it will not transfer the heat very well then reseat using the heat sink compound

I wonder how much having the rest of it powder coated will impact the battery tray's capacity to dissipate heat.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
It's all apart and now I remember... The aluminium heat sink was not removed and was taped off when sent to be powder coated. Looking at the aluminium plate and how it is fastened to the steel I decided that it is not designed to come off easily. I am guessing that this is the heat sink rather than the steel frame. Is this correct? Aluminium is a much better heat conductor that steel and being a solid 4mm thick plate makes sense as it will conduct more heat. However when I refitted the amp it was simply bolted up to the heat sink and knowing what I know now (thanks Duck) clearly some compound was called for. The remnants of the old compound was a crumbly mess that scraped off very easily. 
I will report back when reassembled and test ridden.


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 175,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Yep certainly made a difference and combined with a good fast road test she is now idling beautifully! When I pulled it apart to apply the heat sink compound I discovered that both mating surfaces were convex, so sweet FA of the surfaces were actually touching each other!


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 175,000km
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

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