BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 4:47 pm

mattsuede

mattsuede
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I'm looking at four different K bikes and can't decide which way to go. I've never ridden a K bike, either.
Main purpose for the bike is pretty average; long rides/tours, all weather (just bought an Aerostich Roadcrafter).

1) https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mcy/d/1986-bmw-k75/6243091314.html

2) https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/1985-k100-the-flying-brick/6252452013.html

3) https://medford.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1985-bmw-k100rs/6252049752.html

4) https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/1989-bmw-k100rs-se-rare/6256174340.html

Just rode the '86 K75 and am super impressed with the smoothness and brakes. Good power, great clutch feel, but not ready to bite. I'm going to check out the '89 K100RS SE. Sadly, it doesn't have any records and that spooks me. That, and they're a business selling for a friend of the shop. The price seems good but I'd be happy to pay more for a bike that has documented service history and is being sold by the owner. I like buying from sellers who've owned and ridden the bike for at least a couple years. 

Not sure if it's ok to post links to craigslist posts, so I'll edit this if it's frowned upon.

    

2Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 5:10 pm

duck

duck
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Documented history usually isn't an issue as people tend to take care of these bikes.

I'd go for the SE. Bicker the price down as much as you can.

If you are planning on riding long days then the RS may not work for you.  I like RS bikes and have no problem doing a 12-14 hour day but I couldn't do it on that factory seat so I'd recommend getting a different seat.

Some people don't like riding long distances that leaned over though so it gets down to personal ergonomics as to whether an RS is the right bike FOR YOU.

Edit: You are buying a 30 year old used bike. Remember that. These are very reliable bikes but some parts (especially rubber ones like fuel lines) are getting old and should probably be replaced. So plan to do a little preventative maintenance up front.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

3Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 5:49 pm

mattsuede

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Thanks, Duck- 
Looking at it right now but haven't ridden it yet. Just abt to take it for a ride now. Lots of cosmetic room for negotiations. Update soon.

    

4Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:03 pm

mattsuede

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So the K75 was smoother (no shock, there), had a really nice clutch feel (light, too), and I was impressed by the brakes. It has records going back to new and the owner has an '76 R90 as his other bike. He's just not into the K. It comes with two helmets, stock seat. 
This bike has been listed for a month, so nobody has made an offer he'd take (I assume) and he's asking $2500.

I rode the K100RS SE and it felt longer & heavier, but more comfortable on the highway. The clutch engagement was good, but a little snatchy. I also found a few false neutrals. Tires looked good (Metzelers), brakes felt good but not quite as sharp as the K75's. The heat: lots of it coming out of the left side! It's kinda hot here in Portland today (91 degrees), but I think it'd still be pretty toasty in winter- maybe that would be a good thing?
Bonuses on the RS: inside the hard bags were two other optional factory soft bags. One was roughly the same size and shape as the hard bag, the other was a rather large tank bag (with leather bottom). 
The thing I really don't like about this bike is the seller is a third party. He's very wheeler dealer, fast talking with lots of tangential anecdotal stories. That doesn't sit well with me. It's listed with an asking price of $2,650. I gave a loose offer of $2200 and when I couldn't commit to the purchase (after the ride), he said his friend would probably take $1800. Feels like more of a gamble, this one.

Looking at the '85 K100 base model later and will see what I think about that one. Only asking $1600 but not a lot of service records and while he's owned it for 4 years, he's only put around 5,000 miles on it.He thinks the splines have been done. Hmmm

    

5Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:22 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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Probably the biggest issue is the crankshaft rear main seal.

No matter which bike you go for that will ultimately be on the cards unless someone can show it was done. Its an age thing, and service history if it doesn't mention it does mean its likely to come into play. Its a bit of getting into but you get the opportunity to then go at all the splines and check out he clutch as well as the other seals. Rubber doesn't age well so replace the fuel lines outside the tank with longer ones so you can access the radiator cap and rely box without disconnecting the fuel lines.

I would go for whichever suits you best but will add that RT or LT are more comfortable riding positions for touring. Failing that the SE is a nice one and likely to appreciate in time. I ride all year and apart from about 3 months in summer the engine heat is most welcome. At -6C in winter some think you are mad but the engine heat keeps you snug.

Snatch clutch may just be a cable issue, as in lack of lubrication of the nipple at the lever or at the actuating arm in front of the rear wheel. It could also be on the clutch splines but if you were doing a rear main seal you would be sorting it while in there.

Check out the home portal page on what to do if you have just bought a K. Some very useful information.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

6Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:10 pm

duck

duck
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I don't think the main seal is always an issue. I've had lots of Ks and that is the exeception, not the rule, from what I've seen.  Not saying it won't happen, just that it's not inevitable. I've owned something like 20 of them and never had to replace a rear seal.  I can't remember which but one of my 86s looked like the main seal had been replaced when I pulled the clutch off to install a new clutch O-ring.  (The O-ring wasn't leaking but when I pull a "new to me" bike apart I always replace the clutch nut O-ring while I have things open as preventative maintenance.)

JMHO but I think that seal dries out when a bike hasn't been run for a very long time.  One possible preventative measure is to run an oil change cycle of "high mileage" oil in it as those have additives to "refresh" seals.  Probably not a panacea but can't hurt.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

7Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:29 pm

Rick G

Rick G
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I would say that by your description of the ride (false neutrals etc.) the bike has not been maintained properly. Don't let that stop you but being an SE and you say a cosmetically adjustable price that a paint job would be in order and that combined with lack of maintenance makes it a good proposition for a restoration and not a riding proposition.
For $1500 I would probably buy but for a winter project because the SE is a bit rarer than the straight RS.
If you want to ride it now with minimum work then skip it.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

8Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:16 pm

duck

duck
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We all know that the false neutrals are a sign of drying clutch splines but that doesn't necessarily mean the rest of the bike hasn't been taken care of like regular oil changes.  That said, as Rick pointed out, it's a good nit to pick at when haggling over price.

Also, the "notchiness" of K bike transmissions tends to vary from bike to bike so the false neutrals may or may not be a sign of drying splines.  I've had bikes where it took several hundred miles of riding them to get a feel for the transmission in order to figure out if it was drying splines or just a notchy transmission. (And that's after several hundred thousand thousand miles of K bike experience.) And you can always improve the transmission by running 75-140 with moly.

But I think most of us would agree that a "new to me" bike should always get a clutch spline lube unless you know for a fact that it's been done recently.  That's what I usually do.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

9Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Thu Aug 10, 2017 11:42 pm

mattsuede

mattsuede
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Great help, everyone- I appreciate the info. Never owned a BMW before and I gravitated towards the K-bikes for their build quality, reliability, and durability. I love the sounds they make, too- stock exhaust and all.

The last bike ('85 K100) was really a project; dry rotted tires, couple of sticky or broken switchgear, dead battery, sat for 4 years, etc. The asking price of $1600 looked good but I think half that would be more than reasonable. It had great compression and ran like it should, but those old, hard tires made for a scary ride. So pass on that one. If I keep my shopping local, I know I'd be happy with either bike. It'd really come down to value and resale. My riding would not be epic adventures, but maybe a few days here and there, plus my weekend 25 mile round trips to work. 

I'm going to see if the K75 seller will take what the K100RS SE seller would accept- $1800. If he passes, I'll buy the RS. I'll team up with a buddy or two and tackle the splines and check the clutch, rear main seal, etc. Seems like I can't really lose either way is my thinking. Neither bike is expensive and both are great IMO. It might be a few days before I can make the deal (work days), but I'll report back. I refuse to let myself get too amped up and buy prematurely. There will always be good K bikes out there (I just want one now) Smile

The other two bikes I'd like to see are too far, really; K75S and a low mile K100RS.

    

10Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 12:04 am

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
I would strongly advise you to check out the K75s they are the pick of the K75 model and it may well prove worthwhile.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 2004 K1200GT 1998 K1100 LT, 1986 K75 GS.
    

11Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 12:32 am

mattsuede

mattsuede
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Hey Rick- 
I called about the K75S and am waiting to hear back. I don't know all the differences between the K75C or S, but I can see it's got a larger fairing, different dash/bars (and position), and the engine/trans is painted black. I'm guessing there are suspension differences, too.


The post reads: "Clean title, 57k miles. All maintenance done at BMW dealership, including a Level II service that includes lubricating the clutch splines. Good rubber. Move forces sale"


He's asking $2,600 but it's been posted for 8 days and counting. With the K100RS SE seller willing to take $1,800, I can't see offering him more than $2000. Long way to go for a ride and look-see (3hrs each way). I do like that it's got service records. I don't give lots of credence to dealer work- all comes down to the individual mechanic's detail and thoroughness, IMO.




But yes, of all the bikes I've mentioned, I'd probably bite on the K75S. If moving "forces sale", maybe he'll be a little amenable to $2000. I hate to prey on the desperate, but I've been there. Sold my nice Guzzi 850T-3 for a damn song to move cross country. Update soon!

    

12Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 1:08 am

duck

duck
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Not that it really matters because on either bike there's enough brake to lock up the rear but the K75C has a rear drum brake and the K75S has a rear disc.  The right peg plate on the C is slightly more prone to breaking if you drop the bike on the right side though.

$2,600 isn't that bad of a price for a K75S in good shape that's had a recent dealer Level II. 

What year is the K75S? Better forks on later bikes.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

13Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:26 am

mattsuede

mattsuede
active member
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The K75S is an '88 and the seller sounds knowledgeable. It's been a mostly daily rider for the past three years. Sounds flexible on price, too. Fingers crossed he'll come down a bit. I'd go for it.

The K75C declined my offer, so that's pretty much off the table.
The RS has already been dropped from $2650 to $2350 & it's only been listed a day. Seems like they want to sell fast.

    

14Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:25 am

duck

duck
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Life time member
If I were looking to get a K75, I'd look for one that's model year 89 or later since the rings were changed in manufacturing in 6/88. (which translates to model year 89 for US bikes)

There's nothing wrong with the earlier bikes but if left on the side stand oil will seep past the earlier rings into the combustion chambers and will generate quite a bit of exhaust smoke when you start it up as that oil gets burned. The newer rings still let some oil seep past but only a small fraction.

You can mitigate the smoke by always using the center stand or tilting the bike to the right for a few seconds after turning it off in order to let the oil drain from behind the pistons back into the sump before putting it on the side stand.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

15Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 10:32 am

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

16Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:09 pm

robmack

robmack
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Don't let Duck's explanation of the smoking problem on pre-89 K75's deter you. It is not a reason to discount the K75. The issue is annoying but not detrimental to the health of the engine. There are ways to mitigate the problem a Duck pointed out. If all other factors are considered, I'd always choose an early K75 over an early K100. You come to appreciate the qualities of the K75 over time, like a fine red wine.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

17Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:06 pm

mattsuede

mattsuede
active member
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Found a bike! 
I shouldn't let myself get too excited, yet. It's near Spokane, WA (roughly 7 hours drive, 8 with food/gas/pee breaks).


1988 K75S with 45,000 miles:  " Includes hard side cases and top case and maintenance manual. Second owner. Normal wear and tear but well-maintained and ready to ride, needs nothing. " Only one pic, but it looks fine.
$1,700!


He's owned this bike for the past 18 years. Says splines are good, clutch 6 years and 10k miles ago, tires are good. Hopefully all is as stated, and I'm inclined to believe him. He's been working at the Spokane Intl Airport for the past 24 years. I'm taking good ol' Greyhound up on Monday and riding it back, stopping half way to camp for the night. Open sky, riverside, cool weather- I cannot wait. 


Will use my recently bought Aerostich Roadcrafter for the first time. Any recommendations on what I should bring, bike wise? I didn't ask about factory tools but I'm going to ask before I take off. 

    

18Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Fri Aug 11, 2017 11:56 pm

MartinW

MartinW
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After you have checked it out and bought it, and before riding it back check tyres and tyre pressure. Check fluid levels, engine, gearbox, final drive, coolant brake fluid. Don't rush back take your time, take a Camel Back and keep your fluids up.
Good luck regards Martin.

    

19Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:26 am

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
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mattsuede wrote:Any recommendations on what I should bring, bike wise?
Bring observational skill. Because you'll be riding this bike home if you buy it:

  • Have the owner show you that the plug on the fuel injection control is securely fastened. If it comes loose while riding, the bike will shut down and you'll be standing by the roadside flipping through the pages of the rider's manual wondering what happened.
  • Be certain that the battery post connections are tight and that the battery's ground cable connection on the left side of the transmission is tight. A loose one can shut down everything intermittently or completely.
  • Be sure that the rearview mirror posts are tight.
  • Understand that if the alternator light in the instrument cluster doesn't shut off when the bike is revved, the bike might not get you home.
  • If you haven't already, download a copy of the K75 rider's manual now so you'll have a basic understanding of what you're seeing on the instrument cluster and what you're riding. There is one you can view here.


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
K-bike dilemma Usa-lo10
    

20Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:15 am

Dai

Dai
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Tyres might be 'good' but - how old are they? More than about three years and you should really change them immediately because older tyres go hard, lose grip and introduce you to the blacktop at a very inconvenient moment. Find out their age and if they're at all suspect in that department, see if you can negotiate with the current owner to get them changed before you pick the bike up.

I appreciate the leap of faith that you're taking. I did it once myself (but only three hours away) and picked up an absolute gem of a Guzzi T3 California. Years later, when forced to sell the same bike, someone else did a seven hour trip to collect it, sight-unseen. Personally, at that point I'd gone right through the bike with a fine toothcomb because I knew I wouldn't want to make that length of journey and then find a crock of sh!t at the end of it.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

21Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:26 am

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
Dai wrote:Tyres might be 'good' but - how old are they? More than about three years and you should really change them immediately because older tyres go hard, lose grip and introduce you to the blacktop at a very inconvenient moment. Find out their age and if they're at all suspect in that department, see if you can negotiate with the current owner to get them changed before you pick the bike up.
Good point! Just because you show up without a ride doesn't mean you can't bargain. In fact, tell him you walked there and can walk back because you enjoy exercise.
 cheers

Anyway, here's some information.
K-bike dilemma Tire_s10


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
K-bike dilemma Usa-lo10
    

22Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sat Aug 12, 2017 4:11 pm

mattsuede

mattsuede
active member
active member
Thanks again for the good info, all.
I''l be sure to check tire pressure, condition of tires, and date of manufacture. I agree that good tread doesn't mean good tires. I'll be taking it easy for sure and will probably get new tires immediately. Any favorites out there? I'm no canyon carver type- Portland is a wet place 2/3 of the year, so good grip in the rain is my main factor in choosing.
I'll be sure to also check the mirrors, fuel injection control, batter connections (corrosion and tightness), and monitor the charging light.
And Laitch- I won't be able to tell him I walked there but I've got a better bargaining tool; I'm taking a 7 hour Greyhound to buy this thing! He'll have to take a hit on the price if it's not as described. Seems fair to me.

I'm banking (a lot) on him being straight with me. Tires being "good to go" is my main concern right now. Maybe even bring a couple CO2 cartridges. I'll be camping at a half way point, skipping the stove and eating only room temp foods.

    

23Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sun Aug 13, 2017 2:25 am

Born Again Eccentric

Born Again Eccentric
Life time member
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Sounds like an exciting adventure - you probably won't have as much bargaining power as you would like to think you have though....if she looks half decent, you'll be unable to walk away! 

If the seller is not willing to budge on price, you could always flip a casual comment into the conversation like...."she'll look so much better when I've done my unique cafe conversion on her..." - if he is the genuine 2nd owner since new and he has loved and nurtured her for the last 18 years, he'll plead with you to keep her as she is and probably offer you a better price if you will reconsider...either that or he'll chase you over the state line with his shotgun!! 

Worth you having some (black) cable ties (zip clips), an assortment of blade fuses, a can of deOxit and maybe a spare clutch cable in your travel bag...you never know what little problems you may find once you hit the open road. Hopefully you won't need any of them though and will have a smooth, trouble free ride home.

Enjoy


__________________________________________________
K-bike dilemma Uk-log10 K-bike dilemma Sco-lo15
                              Paul  K-bike dilemma 905546712

"Heidi" K100LT 1991 (Grey) (VIN 0190172 Engine No. 104EB 2590 2213) - 5th owner. January 2014 (34,000 - 61,000 miles and counting....)
"Gretel" K100LT 1989 (Silver Grey) (VIN 0177324 Engine No. 104EA 2789 2211) - 4th+ owner. September 2015 (58,500miles and counting....). Cat C Insurance write-off rebuild Feb 17
"Donor" K100LT 1990 (Red)  (VIN 0178091 Engine No. 4489 2024) - 6th & final owner (crash write-off now donor bike).   June 2012 (73,000 miles) to November 2013 (89,500 miles)
    

24Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:15 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
Laitch wrote:
mattsuede wrote:Any recommendations on what I should bring, bike wise?
Bring observational skill. Because you'll be riding this bike home if you buy it:

  • Have the owner show you that the plug on the fuel injection control is securely fastened. If it comes loose while riding, the bike will shut down and you'll be standing by the roadside flipping through the pages of the rider's manual wondering what happened.
  • Be certain that the battery post connections are tight and that the battery's ground cable connection on the left side of the transmission is tight. A loose one can shut down everything intermittently or completely.
  • Be sure that the rearview mirror posts are tight.
  • Understand that if the alternator light in the instrument cluster doesn't shut off when the bike is revved, the bike might not get you home.
  • If you haven't already, download a copy of the K75 rider's manual now so you'll have a basic understanding of what you're seeing on the instrument cluster and what you're riding. There is one you can view here.



Add one more. If the alternator light doesn't come on when you go to start up.
Also lube the nipple on the clutch lever, its supposed to rotate when you pull the clutch. If it doesn't it can eventually detach the nipple.

If your riding conditions and rainfall is like ours Bridgestone Battlax BT45 are great tyres in wet conditions. I run front at 38psi and rear 42psi solo.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

25Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:37 pm

mattsuede

mattsuede
active member
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Haven't mentioned but I'm 6'0 (182cm for you metrics) and 182lbs (82kg). I'll do my best to account for tire pressures according to my size, but tires and pressures vary blah blah...
I have a tendency to worry and get a little paranoid when undertaking journeys like this. I've done it before; bought my '78 Guzzi 850T-3 sight unseen from a guy in San Francisco (10hrs and 640mi away). He, too, said it was "good to go". It was not. Brakes were sticky, ignition switch was 50/50, tires were old (but not cracked), and at a couple of times during my NIGHT TIME ride back, the headlight cut out. So, yeah... a little anxious Smile

I'd like to get a USB compatible plug in so I can keep my small devices charged. Haven't searched very much yet, but I'm guessing adapters are not to difficult to find(?). I also scored a decent Multivario tank bag yesterday. The side hooks are in good shape but I'll get the stretchy material replaced as soon as I get back. It's worn there and beginning to fray. The thing expands like crazy- I can't believe how tall it gets. 

Thanks for the tire recommendations- wet tire traction is paramount here.

    

26Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:47 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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Its not wrong to worry when the bike is new to you and unseen as it were.

You have about 10 kg up on me but probably using a lot less weight of gear so I reckon you will be definitely looking at using those pressures depending on what's on it. I go with Laitch on the tyres too, I always look at the manufacture date but I don't have them on for much over 6-8 months before they are worn out due to amount of miles I do. The age is far more noticeable in cold and wet conditions, in dry warm probably won't even notice it.

Not to be alarmist but check the brake fluid levels before you head off and probably bring a small container of DOT4 with you. You won't have time to check them out and the master cylinder seals if they leak a bit you will be able to top it up to get you home ok.

The LT coil cover has a tab and hole in it for a power outlet and its easy to route up to a fairing box or under seat tray from there.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

27Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 12:34 pm

mattsuede

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Well,...

I won't tell a long story about the K75S, but I had to pass. It was mostly my fault for not asking more questions before embarking on a 6.5 hr Greyhound ride to see it (intending to buy). The windshield was homemade and wobbled at speed, the right front fork seal was leaking, the final drive was wet, delayed response when blipping the throttle at standstill, the speedometer and tach did not move at all, the signals would not cancel ("that just started happening today!"), the tires were old, and the shift lever was a tad pushed in. 
So yes, 18 years in the hands of the seller, but not really loved and ridden in those 18 years. I opted to suck it up and pass on the bike, taking yet another Greyhound back. I contacted the seller of the first K75C that I rode and he still had it. We struck a deal and I picked it up later the day I came back.
I'm happy with the deal and very happy with the ride so far. The forks on this one need servicing, too, I think. I'm not very good at diagnosing but it feels too mushy. Maybe the seals are shot on this one, too. First thing I'll need is new tires and change all fluids. I'll post a pic soon.

    

28Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:35 pm

Laitch

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mattsuede wrote:
I won't tell a long story about the K75S, but I had to pass.
Thanks for the update. Follow all the newly-purchased bike inspection and maintenance procedures published here and elsewhere. You should have a great time on the road with it.


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
K-bike dilemma Usa-lo10
    

29Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 3:47 pm

helensmellen

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mattsuede wrote:So the K75 was smoother (no shock, there), had a really nice clutch feel (light, too), and I was impressed by the brakes. It has records going back to new and the owner has an '76 R90 as his other bike. He's just not into the K. It comes with two helmets, stock seat. 
This bike has been listed for a month, so nobody has made an offer he'd take (I assume) and he's asking $2500.

I rode the K100RS SE and it felt longer & heavier, but more comfortable on the highway. The clutch engagement was good, but a little snatchy. I also found a few false neutrals. Tires looked good (Metzelers), brakes felt good but not quite as sharp as the K75's. The heat: lots of it coming out of the left side! It's kinda hot here in Portland today (91 degrees), but I think it'd still be pretty toasty in winter- maybe that would be a good thing?
Bonuses on the RS: inside the hard bags were two other optional factory soft bags. One was roughly the same size and shape as the hard bag, the other was a rather large tank bag (with leather bottom). 
The thing I really don't like about this bike is the seller is a third party. He's very wheeler dealer, fast talking with lots of tangential anecdotal stories. That doesn't sit well with me. It's listed with an asking price of $2,650. I gave a loose offer of $2200 and when I couldn't commit to the purchase (after the ride), he said his friend would probably take $1800. Feels like more of a gamble, this one.

Looking at the '85 K100 base model later and will see what I think about that one. Only asking $1600 but not a lot of service records and while he's owned it for 4 years, he's only put around 5,000 miles on it.He thinks the splines have been done. Hmmm
as what has been said regarding the crankcase seal. Just have a quick peek at the bottom of the clutch housing, if its been leaking, then expect an expensive service.
My other half has bought 2 non runners for about $500 each, one took an hour to get on the road the other about two hours. He rides his naked K100, no not him naked  all year prior to the overhaul that its had this year and swears by it. He is a big bloke and has found the K75 just too light and doesnt have the staying power on long distances. His 100 just has the grunt, he says, and wont swap it for the world. 100 all the way he says, and get a nice early one without the ABS... less to go wrong

    

30Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 3:53 pm

helensmellen

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robmack wrote:Don't let Duck's explanation of the smoking problem on pre-89 K75's deter you.  It is not a reason to discount the K75.  The issue is annoying but not detrimental to the health of the engine.  There are ways to mitigate the problem a Duck pointed out.  If all other factors are considered, I'd always choose an early K75 over an early K100.  You come to appreciate the qualities of the K75 over time, like a fine red wine.
lol, what, full of sulphates and guaranteed to give you a headache? lol

    

31Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 3:55 pm

Laitch

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helensmellen wrote:lol, what, full of sulphates and guaranteed to give you a headache? lol
cheers


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
K-bike dilemma Usa-lo10
    

32Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 6:56 pm

MartinW

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Before replacing fork seals try using a tool called a Seal Mate. Either buy one or make one out of a soft drink bottle. They work by removing the crud that gets under the seal lip that stops them from effectively sealing.
Regards Martin.

    

33Back to top Go down   K-bike dilemma Empty Re: K-bike dilemma Wed Aug 16, 2017 7:35 pm

mattsuede

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Thanks Helen and Martin-
Luckily, the seller installed a new clutch and lubed the splines with Honda Moly. I've got the receipts and the clutch feels really good. The undersides of both the trans and engine are dry. 
As far as the forks, I will look into my options (stock vs progressive springs) and probably leave this thread, asking new questions in more specific areas (suspension, brakes, etc). I will post pics of it here, as soon as I can.
So I'll be looking over that (extensive) check list and will make a list of fun projects to do over the winter. I plan on riding year round, but it's going to have to be laid up from time to time for some jobs.

    

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