BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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MikeyD

MikeyD
active member
active member
I've done a lot of reading through here for my pump service and other items.  I appreciate all the helpful information.  Regardless I managed to make a wrong turn.  I'm always surprised at some of the things I do after 35 years of working on mechanical stuff.

I think I may have botched the water pump job in a way no one else has before.  On my 1985 K100RT I was trying to get the last, deepest seal out of the front of the pump body and was not having much luck.  I thought I detected some space behind the metal portion of the old seal so I decided to drill a hole in it and tap it with my slide hammer like I have done with other difficult-to-remove seals.  There was no space under the seal.  Unfortunately I stupidly drilled right through to the other side of the pump body.   Repairing hole in water/oil pump body 61740   Looking at the first photo, in the front of the pump where the seals go you'll notice two holes where there should be one. The bottom photo shows where the hole comes through the back side of the pump.

I figure I have 3 options now. 
1.) I can pitch the whole pump body and buy a new or used pump body.
2.) Repair the whole with two part epoxy for metal, something like JB Weld (https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-putty-sticks/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick).
3.) Repair the whole with dura-fix (http://durafix.com/index.html), which is like an aluminum braze.

With #3, I have to heat the aluminum to 735 degrees F and I'm concerned I may warp the sealing surfaces of the pump body. 

With #2 I'm concerned that the little patch will fail and introduce an engine damaging piece of hardened epoxy into the oil stream.

Any thoughts?  Lately I'm leaning toward the JB Weld.

It may have been a case of "don't fix it if it ain't broke".  I didn't have any coolant leak, but old, leaky oil was caked on really thickly.  I figured the mating surfaces were leaking.  I have the bike torn down for a lot of other work so I wanted to address the leak.  As it turned out, the threaded stud at the front end of the drive gear was mostly sheared but barely hanging on to secure the water pump impeller.  I know I didn't shear it while removing it because I barely turned the nut and it came off.  Plus, the the sheared metal was corroded like it had been exposed for a long time.  The last photo shows that. Has anyone encountered that before?

Repairing hole in water/oil pump body Dscf0510
Repairing hole in water/oil pump body Dscf0511

Repairing hole in water/oil pump body Dscf0512


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RT (0052390), 1985 K100 (0030066), 2003 K1200GT (ZK01448), 1984 R65, 1984 R80ST, 1974 R90/6, 1976 R90/6, 1997 R850R, 1991 Honda CB250, 1998 Sportster 883
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
re the sheered bolt
yep pretty common thing .

I recon if you look around , you may find another pump body pretty cheap ,,as there have been many attempts , and new replacements sought after the failed seal replacement ..BUT  you may need to source a newer Big gear shaft , unless you can get a machine shop to drill and thread a new recess   through the front of the shaft  to accept a 6mm bolt ,(the obvious thought is that the shaft maybe case hardened and hard to do this )

whilst thinking about the shaft , how does it look ?  is it quite corroded  where the seals mate up to the shaft ?

if your lucky this oil leak (rather than water leak ) may be have the shaft in good condition  for more work

good luck


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%ORepairing hole in water/oil pump body Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

MikeyD

MikeyD
active member
active member
Hi Charlie, thanks for the reply.  I'm planning on getting a new big gear with the female threads and the new bolt to secure the new impeller.  I'll look around to see what I can find for a used pump body.


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RT (0052390), 1985 K100 (0030066), 2003 K1200GT (ZK01448), 1984 R65, 1984 R80ST, 1974 R90/6, 1976 R90/6, 1997 R850R, 1991 Honda CB250, 1998 Sportster 883
    

Johnser

Johnser
Silver member
Silver member
Re. the accidental hole, drill and tap for a loctited grubscrew? You may need to gloop up the seal where the edge of its hole is marked but that should be ok

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I would source a replacement body.

As for the shaft, had the same issue but had all the parts in place to repair the pump. The shaft issue is a virtual certainty unless you know for certain it has been off before.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 40,490 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

MikeyD

MikeyD
active member
active member
I wound up using the dura-fix (http://durafix.com/index.html) to fill the hole.  It seems to have worked, but the project is on hold for a while as I'm prepping for putting a new roof on the house.  I'll try to get some photos of the repair on here.  I'll report back after I get it back together and running.


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RT (0052390), 1985 K100 (0030066), 2003 K1200GT (ZK01448), 1984 R65, 1984 R80ST, 1974 R90/6, 1976 R90/6, 1997 R850R, 1991 Honda CB250, 1998 Sportster 883
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
Will be interesting to see the pictures.

If you end up needing a replacement body I can hook up and I'm just down in Washington.


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT (x2)
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

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