BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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1Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 4:51 am

Matthew-Brisbane

Matthew-Brisbane
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Hello to all the wise 

I have a couple of question about a 2004 k1200 GT that for sale  with 120,000km

What should i be looking for 

These are the faults that i could see at a quick glance 

1 is the gearbox meant to be very loud rattling sound at idle
2 is the ABS light all ways flashing ? About 3km ride and still flashing 
3 just had aa 120 thou services and i rung the mechanic because i did not know they worked on BM but they had no services history no spline services history

4 plastic disconnects under tank 
5 elec screen not working 
6 rear disk thin 
8 oil from somewhers  on the gear shift ?
9 front left side disk warm right side dead cold

    

2Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:18 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

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Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello to all the wise 

I have a couple of question about a 2004 k1200 GT that for sale  with 120,000km

What should i be looking for 

These are the faults that i could see at a quick glance 

1 is the gearbox meant to be very loud rattling sound at idle Not that I know of. At idle it can't be the gearbox apart from input side and it could be engine output shaft or rattles from the clutch area? Investigate this one as it could be a back end off job. Most of us have been there with a K bike and if you go in there there are lots of jobs you would do at the same time, If you have some skills and its otherwise a good bike it may be worth taking it on board.
2 is the ABS light all ways flashing ? About 3km ride and still flashing No, it should not be flashing if you have ridden the bike and used front and rear brakes it should stop flashing. Flashing means fault. Not sure of your ABS, but on my 97K
3 just had aa 120 thou services and i rung the mechanic because i did not know they worked on BM but they had no services history no spline services history. Spline history needed at clutch splines, otherwise assume its not been done. That said the Paralever is usually fairly reliable.

4 plastic disconnects under tank 
5 elec screen not working Drive unit?
6 rear disk thin Costly item but easily replaced.
8 oil from somewhers  on the gear shift ? Seal behind the gear lever? Check its not coming from UNDER the gearbox by the little hole.
9 front left side disk warm right side dead cold Brakes works needed, right side caliper not working? ABS fault and caliper not working= brakes work required. Caliper rebuilds are not too difficult but points to some neglect?
Query valve clearances check?
Query head bearings?
Query/check under the water/oil pump for leaks.
Check the dates on the tyres....


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

3Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:27 am

Matthew-Brisbane

Matthew-Brisbane
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Thanks olaf

    

4Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:07 am

92KK 84WW Olaf

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A friend had one of those for 10 years and loved it!. If you can do a lot of those jobs yourself its a different matter.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

5Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:02 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
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I own an '03 K1200GT, and have covered over 20K (miles) on it in three years. It is the servo ABS variety like an '04. It's an expensive pump to replace and not many like to open them to attempt a rebuild. Removing it to revert to 'normal' brakes is a nuisance (but can be done with relays and creativity) because the speedometre signal runs through the ABS control unit. Most of the time the pumps 'fail' due to inattention on the owner's part to proper brake flushing which should be done every two years, especially in moist climates.

What sounds like the gearbox may be the output drive unit; a rattly clatter at idle, which disappears with revs, mainly. Listen for a hum upon deceleration - which points to output rather than gearbox. Change the gearbox oil, look for excessive amount of slivers. use a high quality GL5 oil. I like full synth in there, but your choice.

An '03 GT should have had factory male and female plastic disconnects on the RH side of the tank under the fairing panel. The new-style BMW male disconnect is now made of metal.

The valve covers leak at the rear and the first place you see it is as a fine mist on the shift lever. "They all do that." Easily remedied.

K1200RS/GT series eat the back disc with regularity - fixed calliper and disc. EBC MD661 is a good replacement aftermarket part. She's a big girl, even though she can dance.

BMW sell a calliper repair kit for the four-piston Brembo if the cally is hanging up. Try a good flush first, ABS circuits included.

Check for 12V at the windscreen motor. Perhaps the 6mm 'turnbuckle' has come of its pivot at the motor.

Input splines need lube and maintenance like any Brick type K.

Once regular maintenance is done and dusted, these bikes are da bomb.


__________________________________________________

1970 R60/5, '77 R75/7-R100, '85 K100'87 K75C, '87 K100RS, '93 K11-K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100-Mystic, '96 K1100RS, '98 K1200RS, '00 K1200RS, '02 K1200RS, '03 K1200GT, '04 R1150R'04 R1150RT, '05 K1200S, #1 '06 K1200R, #2 '06 K1200R, '07 K1200R, '09 K1300GT, '13 R1200RT-P & 2022 S1000XR

"Do you ever read any of the books you burn?" "That's against the law!" "Oh, of course."
~Ray Bradbury, science-fiction writer (22 August 1920 - 2012)
    

6Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:19 am

Matthew-Brisbane

Matthew-Brisbane
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Thanks Two Wheels

    

7Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Thu Mar 01, 2018 4:57 am

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
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Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello to all the wise 

I have a couple of question about a 2004 k1200 GT that for sale  with 120,000km

What should i be looking for 

These are the faults that i could see at a quick glance 

1 is the gearbox meant to be very loud rattling sound at idle
2 is the ABS light all ways flashing ? About 3km ride and still flashing 
3 just had aa 120 thou services and i rung the mechanic because i did not know they worked on BM but they had no services history no spline services history

4 plastic disconnects under tank 
5 elec screen not working 
6 rear disk thin 
8 oil from somewhers  on the gear shift ?
9 front left side disk warm right side dead cold
I have a K1200RS 2002, owned it from new and have covered 178,000 km's. I know this bike inside and out. 
1 The gearbox rattle is affectionately known as the 'box-O-rocks'. It is the result of shim wear on the output shaft. It can be re shimmed and there is a member on I-BMW forum who has detailed this very well. Nearly all do it to varying degrees. 
2  Integral ABS, I-ABS or 3rd gen ABS. This is what you have, and it is linked to a very complex and over engineered braking system that incorporates two servo assist pumps to dramatically increase calliper brake pad pressure. I love the system and have lived with it for nearly 16 years, but the system takes a heap of maintenance on a yearly basis to keep it running. Neglect through lack of use is the downfall of these braking systems. The I-ABS module is NOT rebuildable at this stage although Module Master in the USA has been promising for years that they are close...  
So, starting sequence is important and if this has not been explained then issues can occur. 
First, when you turn the ignition on, NO brakes are to be applied. NOT even lightly as the computer does a test sequence of the circuits. This first stage is complete when the ABS or Brake Failure light flashing reduces from a fast to a slow sequence. (If you have applied the brakes WHEN starting the motor, the computer cannot complete its first check and the flashing ABS light will not reset to the slower rate). 
Once the ABS light has slowed its flashing rate you can start the engine and apply brakes (in either sequence) Note also that the general warning light will go out when the ABS flashing sequence goes from fast to slow. Once you start moving the computer will complete the final check and the ABS/Brake Failure light will go out. This happens at about 3 mph. Applying the brakes does NOT turn the flashing off as it does on earlier models.
So, one of the most common causes for continued fast flashing ABS light is simply a sensor in either the front or rear ABS reservoir is low. The two reservoirs are contained in a single unit just below the seat on the right hand side. Note, the fluid level in the front master cylinder at the brake lever does NOT change with pad wear. As I mentioned the system is totally over engineered with completely separate braking circuits. One circuit for the wheels and another for the ABS to front and bake brake levers. On top of all this, the front brake is linked to the back brake and varies from 50/50% to 95/05% depending on braking force and centre of effort on the bike. IE the harder the braking the more pressure is applied to the font and less to the rear. At a walking pace it is 50/50. 
When you took it for a ride did the brakes seem strong with no apparent lack of brakes? Probably this is the case as you would have mentioned it. Again this points to low brake fluid. Another much more serious cause is failure of the module which leads to residual braking function. This means the power assist is inoperative and while the brakes will still work, they require a lot of squeeze to make it happen. 
3  Splines are not as big an issue as they are in 100/1100's but still need to be looked after. Service history on these bike is everything and I would not consider a purchase of one of these bikes without it. The ABS module will set you back USD2800.00 plus freight and fitting. 
4  Plastic QD's are a no no. Change them out for stainless asap as the the oem plastic items do fail which at best will leave a permanent fuel stain on the crank cover, and at worst....  
5  Whatever, may not be hard or expensive to fix as there will be plenty of secondhand spares available now. 
6  Noted for this happening over time. PO has not learned to use the gearbox instead of the brakes. Rear brake should only be used for trailing into corners if you've gone in a bit hot, or tight manoeuvring when parking etc, and when coming to a standstill at traffic lights etc.    
8  This needs to be investigated carefully. There is no weep hole in the bottom of the bell housing as there is on earlier K's. Known leaks are the engine output seal and/or O-ring. The O-ring is a known failure on all K's as BMW used a shitty 1.50 O-ring instead of Viton. Also known to fail is the clutch slave cylinder on the back of the tranny. Both this and the O-ring/engine output seal if not attended to will eventually leak fluid onto the clutch. It's a dry clutch so the consequences are not good. Also check behind the lower rubber boot at the final drive. If there is oil in there, check to see if it has travelled down the swing arm - tranny output seal, or from the pinion seal in the FD. Tranny output seal is easier to fix.  
9  Sounds like the front callipers need the pistons pulled and probably a seal kit. DO NOT split the callipers. This can be done on earlier K callipers but there is no seal kit available for these (as far a I know). Brake lines are a known fail and should be replaced with stainless. HEL brakes of the UK have an outlet in Aussie and a great online build your own web page. I used it for my K100RS although I went with Spieglers from the USA on my K12.
Matthew, these are a fantastic motorcycle and I've loved every moment of ownership, although we nearly parted company over suspension woes. At about 80,000km's the oem shocks will be toast and Ohlins or Wilbers are the go. I went with Ohlins and it was the single best upgrade I ever did. 
So, a lot to consider and what I hope I've done is arm you with the knowledge to be able to pick a goodie. My bike has never let me down however it takes a fair amount of annual servicing, of which I have recorded EVERY cent spent and EVERY maintenance task from day one. 
Good luck, and I am more than happy to help in any way I can should you need any advice.


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2020 R1250RS. Metallic black with all the fruit
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 186,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

8Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Thu Mar 01, 2018 12:05 pm

Two Wheels Better

Two Wheels Better
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There is a kit for these Brembos. It is BMW part number 34 11 2 338 257 and is for open-backed, four piston callipers used on servo-equipped ABS K1200RS and all K1200GT Bricks. It is for one side only, contains pistons & seals, but not the smaller o-ring that you'd see upon separating the halves, and is not inexpensive.


__________________________________________________

1970 R60/5, '77 R75/7-R100, '85 K100'87 K75C, '87 K100RS, '93 K11-K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100-Mystic, '96 K1100RS, '98 K1200RS, '00 K1200RS, '02 K1200RS, '03 K1200GT, '04 R1150R'04 R1150RT, '05 K1200S, #1 '06 K1200R, #2 '06 K1200R, '07 K1200R, '09 K1300GT, '13 R1200RT-P & 2022 S1000XR

"Do you ever read any of the books you burn?" "That's against the law!" "Oh, of course."
~Ray Bradbury, science-fiction writer (22 August 1920 - 2012)
    

9Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:06 pm

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Two Wheels Better wrote:There is a kit for these Brembos. It is BMW part number 34 11 2 338 257 and is for open-backed, four piston callipers used on servo-equipped ABS K1200RS and all K1200GT Bricks. It is for one side only, contains pistons & seals, but not the smaller o-ring that you'd see upon separating the halves, and is not inexpensive.
You are quite correct TWB, but for some reason the manual specifically states NOT to split the callipers. I guess any good seal company will match the small O-ring if needed however there is really no need to as the pistons can be removed without the need to split the callipers.


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2020 R1250RS. Metallic black with all the fruit
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 186,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    


11Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:26 am

KiwiK100

KiwiK100
Gold member
Gold member
Matthew, I'm sure the bike looks great as most bikes offered for sale usually do. Three pics taken at a distance show very little of the condition and are little more than an overview. What you want is hard facts on the service history and maintenance schedule. As I alluded to in my previous post, these bikes can cost a lot of money to sort if the maintenance has not been done, and if there is no record of it then I would pass it by. One will come your way that ticks all the boxes. I would have a good lurk around the I-BMW forum as it is based primarily on the K1200 bricks. Plenty to read there!


__________________________________________________
Current rides:
2020 R1250RS. Metallic black with all the fruit
2002 K1200RS. Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins, Speiglers, Fiamms, HID. 186,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1991 K1. Schwartz metallic black, 18 month frame off restoration. 74,000km SOLD Crying or Very sad
1987 K100RS Style. Black, Ohlins, Race Tech springs, Braided lines. Fully restored. 53,000 miles. SOLD Crying or Very sad
The family history:
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads ride
1953 Triumph Terrier - my Mum's ride
1916 Triumph Type H, Battle of the Somme, France WW1 - my Grandads ride
    

12Back to top Go down   K1200 GT questions Empty Re: K1200 GT questions Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:30 am

Matthew-Brisbane

Matthew-Brisbane
Life time member
Life time member
Thanks guys 

Im going to give this on a miss 

Just not ready for another project

    

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