Inge k posted a diagram of ignition switch, but couldn't confirm if it came apart.


Well you'll be pleased that it does. In trying to sort abs out I came across loose connections at switch, yep every thing would die untill you give it a wiggle. This is what i found.

So i cleaned it up


Pull all the springs apart slightly, as these push on contacts above and there are 4 of these. You may have to find replacements as 1 of mine had corroded


The only thing you should be careful of, is not to drop the small screw that holds it in place under the key barrel ...... still not found it. I used a small self tapper instead. I've pulled on wires and its pretty dam solid now so no chance of bike just dying on me. Hope this helps sombody.

Thanks for sharing the info and pictures, it could be needed some day.
Have only dismantled the older type without an integrated steering lock so far.

Inge K.

good one capn .......thanks for the look inside ...

cheers

Nice one, certainly cleaned up ok.

BIG D

There's nothing like a definitive fix to a problem. Cheers!

Get the DeoxIT in there as well to finish the cleanup and then treat with the DeoxIT Shield.
Regards,
K-BIKE

captaink wrote:Inge k posted a diagram of ignition switch, but couldn't confirm if it came apart.


Well you'll be pleased that it does. In trying to sort abs out I came across loose connections at switch, yep every thing would die until you give it a wiggle. This is what i found.

So i cleaned it up


Pull all the springs apart slightly, as these push on contacts above and there are 4 of these. You may have to find replacements as 1 of mine had corroded


The only thing you should be careful of, is not to drop the small screw that holds it in place under the key barrel ...... still not found it.  I used a small self tapper instead. I've pulled on wires and its pretty dam solid now so no chance of bike just dying on me. Hope this helps somebody.

Ahhh, finally - the Thread I was looking for - I removed the pictures from the original post for my reply because they're there and we don't need them over here too.

Perhaps some input from somebody before I go and break something (I hate it when that happens!) because the bike works great as is...Captaink doesn't elaborate on how he removed that (brittle-and-easily-breakable-looking) assembly from the base of the ignition switch...

Here's what I got:

I've been trying to find out what exactly is supposed to happen when I turn the ignition key (1992 K100RS 4v), specifically regarding the lights.  The answer is not clearly laid out anywhere I've looked (hours).  The lettering on my trim ring is pretty much worn off (hard to find a replacement for that too without buying the entire switch).  Here's what I've got going on:

My ignition switch has 3 settings (positions): Off, 1, 2.  At off - everything is 'off' - teeth are pointing 90 degrees to the left, the key cannot be removed.  Then at setting 1 (45 degree turn of the key CW) nothing changes (nothing comes on, no lights front or rear) but the key is removable.  At setting 2 (another 45 degree CW turn) everything is on, ignition, instruments & lighting of same (including the temp & fuel gauges), headlight and the small parking light inside the headlight projector, and the taillight, key not removable.

Can someone please enlighten me as to what is supposed to initialize at setting 1?  I would assume the parking light is supposed to turn on, should there be a rear light come on as well (taillight/license plate light)?

Thanks again to the community, some of these threads are so chock-a-block that my original intent gets totally commandeered by some greater priority.  This here falls under the 'just a bother' category, but it is safety related and that is important.  Which is the same reason why I installed the missing 4-way hazard switch for $100 freakin' dollars!  $20 of which went to the CRA...but hey, the government is always hungry If there's a thread I missed that discusses this I'd appreciate a re-direct

Update: after writing all of this out and double-checking on my bike I was able to barely make out some writing on the trim ring (with a forensic microscope).  There appears to be 4 settings marked there (but my key only finds the 3 listed above).  And there's no steering lock action happening either, no matter how I position the handlebars.

Thanks, Ace

Not sure about the 4v Bricks but the steering locks 2v ones are positioned on the LH side steering head. They are a bit of a pain to operate. On the 2v the switch positions are OFF, PARK LIGHTS, ON.
Regards Martin.

Ace Handler wrote:  
The lettering on my trim ring is pretty much worn off (hard to find a replacement for that too without buying the entire switch). 

Trim ring: "step plate" part# 61 32 2 308 613  $22,-

Ace Handler wrote:  
My ignition switch has 3 settings (positions): Off, 1, 2.  At off - everything is 'off' - teeth are pointing 90 degrees to the left, the key cannot be removed.  Then at setting 1 (45 degree turn of the key CW) nothing changes (nothing comes on, no lights front or rear) but the key is removable.  At setting 2 (another 45 degree CW turn) everything is on, ignition, instruments & lighting of same (including the temp & fuel gauges), headlight and the small parking light inside the headlight projector, and the taillight, key not removable.

Off= ACC position....radio, map reading light.....which you don't have.
1= Park position.....the front park light and tail light should come on.
2= On.

Steering Lock: turn the handlebar all the way to the right and a tad back,
turn the ignition switch anticlockwise from off.
At this position ACC is switched off....so this is the real off position.

Wow!  Thanks Inge, praises and salutations...excellent reply.

Do you have any explanation for why my parking light comes on with my headlight at setting 2 (or is that how it's supposed to work)?

Ace

Ace Handler wrote:Do you have any explanation for why my parking light comes on with my headlight at setting 2 (or is that how it's supposed to work)?

That's normal, as the tail light is in the same circuit.

It's also different variations of the 4V ignition switch.
1. You could have park light at a second step on steering lock.
2. You could have no park light position at all. (Lock, ACC, On).
Varies with the market the bike is meant for.

In other words...just leave it alone!  Thanks again!

Ace

Hi guys i need some advise please i have a k100 83 model i have spark when i hold the plug about 5mm away from the body but when i put the plug against the body there is no spark i changed plugs and leads please any advise

Newby wrote:Hi guys i need some advise please i have a k100 83 model i have spark when i hold the plug about 5mm away from the body but when i put the plug against the body there is no spark i changed plugs and leads please any advise

Start a new thread discussing this observation so your question isn't lost it this thread.

I have done that

I fitted an R80 mono switch to my Dakar. The problem for me occurred when I soldered the wires on and the plastic heared up so much that the  contact spade terminals sank below the level inside the switch! Do not over heat those spade terminals. On a positive note I am very familiar with the insides of those switches! I managed to get it working again by pushing the terminal back in to the correct level and then JB welding on the spade/outside side to hold it secure.