whilst attempting to dig deep into the bowls of the redframe motor to replace the output shaft
success in removing all te bell housing bolts (except for the alternator drive on the aux shaft )
I needed to remove the water pump

all screws removed but it would not come free

I had to remove the impeller , bolt etc and pull the shaft back through the housing , blast , as ive probably screwed the seals now

the driven shaft which holds the impeller is stuck fast in the housing
beneath the gear on the face of the sump are score marks , so likely someone has been in there before me

rotation of the shaft is firm but not as I remember, free

if pushing the shaft through the housing from internal to the sump I get about 10 though then it all goes hard to move at all

im thinking a rotten install has spun the metal of the sump to the shaft




so what to do …

whats the Kollective thought to remove it

Bit of brute force there Charlie, I don't see any other way. The shaft will probably clean up OK but as for the alloy of the block the only way to salvage it will be a bronze bush.

Bearing puller or similar - or make one. A metal bar with three holes and the middle one slotted to fit snuggly under the bolt head. The other two holes will have a pair of long bolts through them with the heads against the engine block (or better still, a couple of bits of wood). Each long bolt has a nut and washer on so that you can wind the nuts against the underside of the metal bar - a reverse bearing puller that should pull directly outwards.

I hope this bottle of Green Spot pot still whiskey made sense. I had to correct its typos far too many times.

[Edit] Dammit - I missed a few.

hows this for an idea
section of exhaust pipe large enough to fit over the driven gear ...and long enough to be more than 20 mm longer than the shaft

a cross piece of tube steel with a 9mm hole

8mm bolt into the end of the shaft

and wind it out ?

likely right about the sump material Rick

I may have another sump off another motor , but would have to be the same year -type to match the output shaft rear bearing

ill have a look

so no ones seen it before ?

the reason I ask is , I was wondering if metal had contaminated other locations , like crankshaft etc

I have plenty of sumps etc up here mate.

cheers rick , its an 84 so needs the casting for the circlip around the output shaft main bearing I guess ,,, but is that actually necessary ?
couldn't I just pull the circlip off that bearing , as the later models just don't have it at all ???

still to pull the other one off to check , although the face looks pristine , and have the matching pump assembly 
but a new oil water pump kit needs to ordered at a minimum


just checked now  it appears to be an 88 ….which will stuff up the genealogy of the engine …...but does that matter ?

I have 4 K100 bottom ends so I'll have something to do the job.

with a bit of ingenuity and a lot of luck (with fingers crossed )...a slide hammer helped pull the shaft out of the sump ...yay !!

the shaft has taken on some of the aluminium from the running surface of the sump bearing surface ...so  as suspected  a bit of work to be done to fix it

ill try and locate one of the old shafts  from some of the collection I have , but on a good sump I have here, the shaft I removed will not mate up - too big

How much material came out? If just a bit I wouldn't necessarily be too worried as the shaft is also held in position with the surface of the wheel against the housing.

"unsure" is the word rene


sufficient to say that the galling is worry some with the relatively high temperatures around here …
 I don't want this to cause other issues into the future  so will attend a engineering shop for a new bush fitup ...and back to factory shaft dimensions

to be honest, the action of that shaft was not "free" by any means …

id rather be thinking of other things

cheers mate