I have heated socks with fuse, switch and controller all in line. It seems sensible to me to run them off the heated grip connector under under the tank. Any reason why not? Any better options?
In the same vein I also need to wire in a digital voltmeter, can I just piggyback off this same power source?
Cheers

You may find your voltmeter gives a lower reading when you connect your heated socks. Best to run a dedicated circuit for the meter to get a true reading on battery/charging voltage.

Yes, you can.
No need for the aftermarket fuse, cut it away, and connect the rest to the plug.

Check the current requirements for the socks, Stu. I don't know what the original BMW grips are, but it's reasonably safe to assume they are around four amps at full power. I'd much rather put in a relay controlled from the ignition switch and powered from the unused fuse 4 - there's room in the relay box for at least two more relays.

Pin 30 - fuse 4
Pin 87 - socksies or whatever
Pin 86 - green wire (available from pin 86 of the load shed relay)
Pin 85 - brown wire (there should be a loose earth wire with a spade connector on the 'Connection for Special Equipment').

No idea what alternator you are running, but if it's the original, you might want to consider upgrading to a 50 amp alternator which is a drop-fit with the exception that you need to change the plug-in connector on the 33 amp alternator for two ring terminals to fit the 50 amp alternator. If you're really power-mad (I am!  ) you can convert the 50 amp alternator to 60 amps by using the body of an RT (?) alternator. Think of all that lovely heated clothing you can wear and all of those extra headlights you can fit to blind those ignorant buggers who won't dip their headlights!

Thanks all.
o

Is there a fuse in the #4 (middle position) on your bike?  If so then that is for accessory socket power.

The stock K100 setup for an aux power socket above the coils looks like this:

(Thats a picture from ebay. Rotate it 90 CCW for how it mounts.)

If you use the HG connector and your socks somehow short then they'll blow the #1 fuse and kill everything else on that fuse.

You can also use the socket(s) above the coils from a 4V K100 - which do fit the earlier coils - my 86 K100:

Hi Duck,
Yes I do use the powerlet for the socks atm, but I am also running an LED spot from the chair sidelight wiring which needs to be switchable and want to add a voltmeter so am thinking about ways to consolidate into a single ‘distribution board’ with a few spares for expansion. I know that Dai is right about upgrading the alternator (particularly as my chair mounted battery is spliced into the original connectors with some seriously heavy duty leads, and I would like to make those connections direct).
So basically I have some scrappy odds and ends going on that I would like to tidy up but I don’t want to start yet another piece of work that keeps the bike off the road while I experiment and re-work (which sadly is the way my electrical work tends to go).
I could leave everything as is. It all works but I’m embarrassed by the amateurishness of it all.

I add a four fuse aux fuse block next to the factory one:

Well at least I have one thing right. I too have printed English labels because I keep forgetting the German.   Your extra panel is exactly what I have in mind. is that wired into fuse 4 and then onto a relay?

I've added the same aux fuse block to all of my Ks and how I wire it up varies from bike to bike but:

I always run the power to the fuses for the headlight relays and aux lights from the rear terminal of the starter relay. It's always hot and has a nice fat lead to the battery. Since the 86 pins on my lighting relays are tapped into the factory headlight wiring that turns them off when I turn the bike off.

For the stuff that uses less power I often power that from the switched power green/black wire from the alarm connector. (I know it ends up being fused twice that way but if I find from troubleshooting that's it's my stuff causing the problem then I can remove the aux fuse and take my stuff out of the circuit.)