Being of old age and bad back I need to change the rider position. I found some new handle bars and risers and they are perfect. The problem is the clutch cable is now to short the bike is a K100rs. Is the clutch cable for the RT or LT model any longer or where can I get an after market clutch cable. I also need a longer brake master cylinder hose. Any advice will be appreciated......BOB

You need the RT/LT clutch cable, it is indeed longer. You may most likely need the RT/LT brake hose and possibly throttle cable.

The wiring is same but you will need to pull out the  from under the gas tank.

Motorworks.

Best place to get the cables. I've opted for C bars but did consider LT/RT on for my RS but when I looked in to it Motorworks came out on top!

Best of luck

Dave

Thanks guys that gives me a couple options......BOB

The C clutch cable is the same as the RS one.  The RT/LT clutch cable is 115mm longer than the RS cable.

As Duck says, the LT/RT cables are longer, that's why I'm going over to C bars. I replaced the cables on my RS (Clutch cable snapped so thought I would do them all) then a couple of months later decided I wanted the more upright riding position. Not going to do all that cable work again!

Dave

I thought however there were only two throttle cable lengths but was told there are more. I have a K100RS and it came with a spare RS throttle cable which I thought would work with the C bars I got for it.....only to find that the clutch cable works but throttle cable does not!!! Seems the front brake line from master cylinder to headstock also must be changed for C bars.

@92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Seems the front brake line from master cylinder to headstock also must be changed for C bars.

Not necessarily.  On some bikes you can loosen the banjo bolt on the bottom of the front master cylinder and changing the angle that the line comes out will make it so that the original brake line will work.

What exactly are "c" bars ?  What are they off ? What about other aftermarket bars? I am thinking of putting different bars on my 1988 K100 RS  because of the pain I get in my wrist and shoulders when I ride it.Don't get that with my Moto Guzzi 850 T or any of my other bikes just this K . The stock bars put my hands at an uncomfortable angle and after about 20 minutes the pain starts.

The C-bar came with the K75C model. Its height is between that of the S and RT models' handlebars. MaxBMW's fiche has photos of the difference in the Handlebar section of the Steering diagrams of different models.

Thank you

Thanks guys you have opened up a lot of options for me.....BOB
Glad to see there are other old guys riding these things...LOL

When searching for aftermarket bars, be aware that BMW bars are 22mm in diameter but many aftermarket bars listed as 22mm-7/8 are actually 22.2mm. Stock controls won't easily fit onto them without first sanding down the handlebar to allow fitment. Those who have forced the issue often have broken the switch housings.

Flanders makes several models dedicated to the BMW measurement.

What he said.  I've never found anybody but Flanders that makes true 22mm handlebars.

"C" bars  32 71 2 303 050   NLA

A close match to the C-bars from Krator




Ebay krator bars

I think the heated grip C bars are still available - 32712300085

@duck wrote:I think the heated grip C bars are still available - 32712300085

what is the difference heat vs non-heated bars?

Heated grip handlebars have a hole drilled in the front middle for heated grip wiring to pass through.

Also two threaded holes on the left side for the heated grip to screw onto.

And notches in the ends for the HG wiring.