BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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redrockmania

redrockmania
Silver member
Silver member
I am fitting a K1100 front end to my 1985 K100RS and am in the process of adapting a R1100R 3 spoke front wheel (3.5" x 17"). The Axle (spindle) shaft diameter for the K1100 is 25mm. The R1100R axle shaft diameter is 20mm. I have sourced correct bearings for the R1100R wheel so as to fit a 25mm K1100 axle but will need to obtain the K1100 Pipe (Part No. 36312312485) which sits in the wheel centre hole between the left and right wheel bearings set into the wheel and through which the axle slides. I intend to machine a this part. Is anyone able to provide me with the dimensions for this part. The Tube part appears to be aluminium with an internal dimeter of 25mm and a length of 58mm. Could someone please provide: 1) the outside diameter measurement of the tube; 2) the outside diameter of the 2 steel collars fitted to the tube and the distance between the tops of each collar. Out out curiosity what purpose does the Pipe serve, given the bearings are securely set in the wheel - Do the two collars act to prevent internal movement of the inner part of the bearing?
I also anticipate some machining of the axle and spacers to centre the wheel on the axle. Thanks.

...Later. After re-inspection of the R1100R wheel, the purpose of the 2 steel collars on the "Pipe" is to centre the aluminium tube in the centre hole in the wheel casting. The outer edges of the aluminium tube, thus being centred, rest up against the inner round steel race of each bearing, preventing the inner race from drifting inwards...it pays to look and look again. All I need to know now is the outside diameter o the aluminium "Pipe" tube.

    

chris846

chris846
Life time member
Life time member
You've identified the correct purpose of the 'pipe', which is to prevent the inner races being compressed together and overloaded when the whole assembly is tightened up (specifically, the draw bolt in the end of the wheel spindle)
So, just make the OD of your 'pipe' suit the OD of the wheel bearing inner races - which it bears up against. It's a straightforward, normal bearing setup.

You could even turn the 'pipe' up as a bobbin - to avoid having to make/source the steel collars.


__________________________________________________
Sometimes I'm not really Suzi Quatro.
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
@chris846 wrote:You could even turn the 'pipe' up as a bobbin - to avoid having to make/source the steel collars.
Don't go there Chris. The damn things are there to make production easier and make changing the bearings a fckn sight harder because there's no lip to beat against. I'm guessing that's one job you haven't done yet? Leave them out completely. To my knowledge, no other manufacturer does the same stupid trick. If you haven't changed the wheel bearings yet, BMW's recommended SOP is:-

Remove the tyres
Remove the discs
Heat in an oven up to X degrees so that the bearings drop out
Insert the new bearings and spacer while still hot
Allow to cool
Replace the discs with new nuts and bolts bought from BMW
Refit the tyre and get it rebalanced.

SOP according to me:-

Put the wheel disc-down on a thick towel
Get a long round bar and beat the sh!t out of the centre spacer until the collars collapse and the spacer moves sideways
Drive the bearing out because you can now see and feel the inner race
Throw away the spacer collars
Reassemble as any other bike
Go to sleep knowing the next time you do it, the job is going to be a lot easier.


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'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, '87 K100RT
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
    

chris846

chris846
Life time member
Life time member
Ah, that's a good point - I'd forgotten it's a struggle to nudge the spacer to one side whilst trying to remove a wheel bearing.
But (and at least 2 of my Ks don't have collars 'cos they're on DIY spacers with non-standard wheels like the OP) the alternative for me is the 'guillotined finger tip' as I stick my finger down the axle hole to try and wiggle the spacer back into line whilst reinstalling the wheel. Ouch. Clumsy, need a better technique I guess  scratch


__________________________________________________
Sometimes I'm not really Suzi Quatro.
    

redrockmania

redrockmania
Silver member
Silver member
Thanks Dai and Chris846 for your input. I agree with Dai, the steel collars on the internal spacer "Pipe" seem unnecessary given the bearings provide perfect alignment of th axle shaft. I'll simply machine a suitable Ali spacer pipe - easy.
I found wheel bearing removal was made easy by using a Plastic Welder I have for heat application to the wheel area where the bearings are seated. The welder has excellent heat control variation. If you have one, much easier than heating the wheel in an oven or working with a hair drier.

    

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
I removed them using a blind hole bearing puller with expanding collets after heating the perimeter with a heat gun. Inserted the replacements after freezing them—zero drama and not much effort. In the US, AutoZone and some other parts dealers loan those out at no cost, only requiring a security deposit.


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1995 K75 73,000 miles
K1100 front wheel/axle shaft part measurements required - Part #: 36312312485 - Pipe L=58mm Usa-lo10
    

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