Hi.
Had problems with the instruments.
Renewal of the connector solved the errors.

RS
12way straight header tin single row
RS Stock No. 509-1708
URL.
Straight header

Crimp terminal
RS Stock No. 509-1994
URL.
Crimp terminal

Hi Michael,
The problem is usually a symptom of moisture getting in to the cluster so if you had that and have fixed it with a new plug and socket consider sealing the cluster as discussed elsewhere on the site or it may come back and affect other bits of the cluster.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Thanks for that, been looking for a replacement part for some time!!

Has anyone purchased these?

You can only get the connectors in packs of 10 and the crimp terminals in packs of 100 coming to around $50AUD.

If anyone has bought the kit id like to buy some of your spares.

It looks like they've introduced a minimum quantity because I did order (and receive) just thirty crimp terminals earlier this year. If you follow through with this, I need to add a warning: you must have the correct crimp tool. There's no room for error because the finished crimp only just fits the terminal block.

BTW: $50AUD is a lot less than I'd pay for them. They want $78.36AUD off me and I'm in the same country. It's called Value Added Tax - a real oxymoron if I've ever come across one.

@Dai wrote:It looks like they've introduced a minimum quantity because I did order (and receive) just thirty crimp terminals earlier this year. If you follow through with this, I need to add a warning: you must have the correct crimp tool. There's no room for error because the finished crimp only just fits the terminal block.

BTW: $50AUD is a lot less than I'd pay for them. They want $78.36AUD off me and I'm in the same country. It's called Value Added Tax - a real oxymoron if I've ever come across one.

Cheers Dai, great input.

So did you cut the old connector off. solder on some longer wires and then add the crimp terminals to this?

@floyd wrote: the crimp terminals in packs of 100 coming to around $50AUD.

Single crimp contacts have BMW part # 61 13 1 459 104.

@floyd wrote:Cheers Dai, great input.

So did you cut the old connector off. solder on some longer wires and then add the crimp terminals to this?

In my case the problem was old wires that were starting to crack where they went through near 90-degrees to enter the terminal block. I made a tool to pull all of the terminals out, then cut them off at the neck of the old crimp, stripped the wires back and put new terminals on. The 'tool' was simply a small electrician's screwdriver ground into a thin blade small enough to slide into the locking hole next to each individual terminal.

Soldering wires... please excuse and disregard the following 'lecture' if you already know what you're doing! 22 or 23 wires (depending on the bike) are a lot of wires to extend. You need to start as far down the loom as possible and try to stagger each soldered joint to reduce the inevitable increase in loom diameter. At the same time, you also need to avoid any bends in the loom that will put pressure on the soldered joint. To actually join the wires I strip about 5mm off each end and then push the bare ends together so that they are intertwined (if you push the fingers on both hands together so that they slide in between each other you'll get the idea). This minimises the size of the final soldered joint. I insulate each joint with heatshrink, then cover the whole lot with PVC sleeving. Don't be tempted to cover everything with a heatshrink sleeve 'to hold everything in place' because heatshrink has no give in it, so it will crack and let water in. It will also stress the soldered joints - they need to be able to move relative to each other when you turn the bars.

Now you can crimp the terminals on!

Ok without the connectors I can't ride my k so I will be ordering a 100, anyone interested in a set at cost price, will not be buying the crimp tool but hope I can locate one locally (beg borrow) let me know if you would like a set, cheers Gary

Placed the order with Rs online in Australia $24 free post.

I have a crimping tool for the spade connectors if it's any good.

@Dai wrote: You need to start as far down the loom as possible and try to stagger each soldered joint to reduce the inevitable increase in loom diameter.

This is a good practice when soldering ANY wires. You always stagger the connections to avoid any shorts due a bad insulation. In the case of an extension cord or a wire that somebody could pull, it makes the connections stronger without being bulky. I always use shrink wrap around individual join.