Ok first post after my hello. I've got a 1989 K100LT that, before it was laid up for 5 years, it was running fine and used regularly. Having said that its only got 55700 miles on it.
So I put fresh fuel in it and checked plugs which all tapped and looked good. Battery was dead but I have a surrogate which I connected to give me some power. Lights on dash all lit up with only ABS flashing. Tried to start but only turned over. Injected some easy start and it sparked up for between 5 and 10 seconds. I took fuel pump out and it makes a click when ignition pushed and one when ignition stops.

Im now after some guidance to my next steps?

Do a search on the forum, lots of good info to follow.

The motor in your fuel pump is seized with old fuel. You can try to free it up, but your time would be better spent replacing it. How does the black rubber vibration damper look? After sitting 5 years I would expect it to look a lot like soft tar and to have spread itself all over the inside of the tank.

The Commies are selling fuel pump packages with all the mounting parts for about 1/10 of BMW's price(slave labor is a wonderful thing). I think some of the Aussie inmates have used them. Maybe they will share their experience with these parts.

Your injectors are probably stuck as well. It will greatly speed up the restoration process to bite the bullet and send them to a shop that cleans them.

Point-Seven-five wrote:The motor in your fuel pump is seized with old fuel.  You can try to free it up, but your time would be better spent replacing it.  How does the black rubber vibration damper look?  After sitting 5 years I would expect it to look a lot like soft tar and to have spread itself all over the inside of the tank.

The Commies are selling fuel pump packages with all the mounting parts for about 1/10 of BMW's price(slave labor is a wonderful thing).  I think some of the Aussie inmates have used them.  Maybe they will share their experience with these parts.

Your injectors are probably stuck as well.  It will greatly speed up the restoration process to bite the bullet and send them to a shop that cleans them.

Well black tar is a very good description. Luckily there’s not any in the tank. I have seen a kit with pump and all replacement parts online to try from our comrades on EBay!
As far as the injectors go I will get them cleaned etc. 

Thanks for the help on this snowy Sunday in the UK.

Regards

RC 

And, install a new fuelfilter.

Hi RC, fuel rail and pressure return  valve will benefit from a good cleanout to make a full circuit of loveliness

Ok new fuel pump and associated bits ordered, it comes with a fuel filter but I've got Mahle one as it's better kit.
I will look into cleaning of fuel rail and pressure return valve. I do have an ultrasound bath so will see what can/can't be done in that?

Great, speedy help guys! Many thanks.....

Regards

RC

While you ar at it... can’t hurt to use new fuel lines and check plugs.
I have had luck adding a squirt of oil in each cyl. Helps increase compression. 
Battery fully charged. 
Worked for me this week.
Good luck!

So I ordered a new fuel pump, fitting kit and filter. Took the old one out again and tested it. As reported it didn't do much other than clunk on starter. I fitted the new pump etc after giving everything a good clean out etc, and she fired right up. I may need to let it run for a bit and adjust idle speed but at least "it's alive!"
Funny thing though, I thought why don't I throw the old original Bosch pump into into my ultrasonic bath, which has carb cleaning solution in and set to 55°C and give it a 30 minute blast? No harm to be done now I've put the new one into the K!
Doesn't the blighted only go and sprew it's guts out (I.e. the content of the pump) when I test it after it's bath! Now I've got a spare original fuel pump.

This might be useful if anyone gets a bit of stuff in through the filter etc in future.

Any way cheers for the help.

Woohoo

Regards

RC

You have confirmed one of the corollaries of Murphy's Law. That a seemingly faulty part will spring to life as soon as an expensive replacement is installed.

Keep the old pump around. The other corollary is that a part that has a spare will never fail.

To be sure, to be sure!!

I know... I know. I will keep and probably rebuild the old one. 

Paddy1 wrote:I know... I know. I will keep and probably rebuild the old one. 

BMW/Magura rear master cylinders will break your heart(and probably your bank account as well) if you let them. Bin the old one and don't look back.

rc2870 
great news!
looks like the bricks are coming alive all over the place!

Point-seven-five,
on going OEM for the rear brake cyl. 
my 2 cents.
bad enough the OEM PARTS ARE AGREED OUTRAGIOUS PRICED. But, I justify by DIY as much and save on the maint. labor cost as often as possible.
otherwise I agree I would not have had the means to get this one going again.
probably would have partedit out by now.
Thanks again for your thoughtsandthe kind offer.
Cheers

Paddy, no problem. My experience is that trying to revive a failed master cylinder is a hopeless task. They live in a nasty spot on the bike, and internal corrosion of the bore is a big problem. Replacement with a new unit seems to be the only real solution when they fail. Doesn't matter if it's OEM or aftermarket, just bite the bullet. As I mentioned, I tried rebuilding(twice), honing the bore, and resleeving to save a bad unit, all to no avail. I had it perfect, and it still didn't work. I should have replaced it rather than try to save it. Everything I spent on that master cylinder($260+) was wasted.

I don't have any problem with the OEM unit other than it's price. It's a good part that in most cases has worked well on these bikes for over 30 years. I only offer my advice to toss the old one based on my lack of success with them. Some parts just don't justify rebuilding, either from the low odds of success or the critical nature of their function(stopping the bike).

I've been running a Chicom cylinder since March 2017 no problems. DO NOT USE THE SUPPLIED RESERVOIR HOSE.
You can lengthen the life of the master cylinder by packing under the boot with silicone grease. It stops the ingress of water and road crap.
Regards Martin.

Could some one leave a link to this piece of kit from Chicom? Also is there any fitting video out in the interweb it Youtube? It'd be interesting to see for future use.

Anyway for me it's tank off, sender unit out and check and pressure relief check this weekend.

Good luck with the brakes.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.msg116179.html#msg116179
Regards Martin.

If you want to see how I did mine, go to page 2 of the thread Martin posted and go down to post #32 dated February 10. That master cylinder has been on my K75RT since then and has logged at least 20,000 trouble free miles. Since then I have put them on 3 more bikes and so far, they all work perfectly.

rc2870 wrote:

That needs to be stirred more if you want to enjoy the full flavor.