We had previously tried to get Bruce's ABS system working. Fault codes had indicated a computer and a relay problem. Another computer and a set of relays failed to remedy the faults. So we determined that a strip down to standard was probably the way to go. The old lines were OEM rubber and the brake fluid well past it's replacement date. New lines were obtained locally from Aussie Automotive Services Lawnton. Sean has done brake lines for me previously and if not busy will do them on the spot and always does a great job. Bruce and I fronted up with an old front brake line for comparison but no rear line. Sean got straight on to the job using my bike to compare with Bruce's ABS system. A few methods and routes were compared until we came up with something that worked and looked good. The new rear line was made up and then he copied the old front line which was a lot more straight forward. All up he spent a good hour working it all out. Total cost for front and rear lines plus copper washers was $150.00. I highly recommend Sean and Aussie Auto Service they are always helpful and have solved a few problems for me over the years.

The next day Bruce fronted up with his bike and we commenced the change over. In order to do the job the seat, fuel tank, side covers, battery, rear half of the front mudguard needs to be removed and the tool tray swung out of the way. We started on the rear first removing the rear modulator hoses and disconnecting the wiring from the plug under the seat.  The wiring needs a bit of wrangling to get it out. After removing the retaining bolts the modulator was removed. The new hose fitted perfectly but when we tried to bleed the system it wouldn't pump up. We were using my Nescafe bleeder and we even tried manual bleeding.  The rear master cylinder was found not to be working. The rear master cylinder was removed in the hope of cleaning it out, and even with all the crap cleaned out it was never going to work. The cups were found to be scored and the cylinder will require honing and a new kit. I pulled my spare OEM one out of stock cleaned it out and lubed it with fresh fluid and installed it. It immediately bled up and we had a good pedal.

Next onto the front hose the old ones were disconnected and the new hose fitted. A minor problem occurred with a leak at the master cylinder banjo bolt. Replacing the copper washers didn't cure the leak but replacing the banjo bolt and washers cured it. The new hose fitted perfectly. The system bled up quickly and easily. The bike on the side stand and the bars on left lock for the bleeding. The front modulator hoses were then removed and once the electrical connector under the tank was disconnected the modulator was removed. All that we were left with was the removal of the modulator support frame which requires the removal of the battery tray and the piping. After looking at trying to remove the piping intact we decided that it wasn't worth the effort. The piping was blown through to try and reduce spillage, but little fluid was evident. In order to get at one of the connection the bolts on the ignition module need to be removed and the module pushed back. The piping was cut into workable lengths with a good set of side cutters and pulled  through. 

The front guard was then replaced along with the battery tray , battery, tank, seat, and side covers. There are a few more little brackets and clips and wheel sensors that I've left Bruce to deal with. All up the job took 5 hours. We still have Paul's LT's ABS to strip which should go a lot quicker as we know where to locate things and hopefully his master cylinder is OK. I'd like to thank Sean for supplying the hoses and Bruce for his assistance. Bruce will send me a couple of pictures which I'll then post. We will probably do more and better pictures when we do Paul's LT.
Regards Martin.

Thanks for posting!  After disconnecting the ABS wiring/modules were the ABS warning lights automatically deactivated - or do they remain lit and you just ignore them? So far my 1988 K100RS ABS is still working but I may need to do this on my 96 K1100 - and hopefully it is a similar process.

We had to remove both relays and the ABS computer to deactivate the lights. The bulb monitoring light now works as per the non ABS bikes.
Regards Martin.

Martin and Sean at Aussie Automotive Services I cant thank you enough.

Sean from Automotive Services an absolute legend.  Rocked up . . . no delay, measured up and hoses were made within 30 minutes.  Great service, great job and well priced,  Thanks Sean

Martin . . . once again, just so appreciative of your knowledge and your time to get the ABS stripped off the bike, the new hoses connected . . . brakes now both front and back.  Lol.    Off to Toowoomba - Bundaberg and Coloundra tomorrow for 12 days.    

Can wait for our next workshop catch - up.

Happy New Year Guys

Kind regards Bruce

P.s.   Photos send to Annabelle's phone

Piccies of the new lines and some of the parts removed. Missing a picture of the modulator mounting frame that mounts under the battery cradle. Bruce will correct me if I'm wrong but all up the ABS parts removed weighed 15 Kg. So it should now have better performance and fuel consumption.
Regards Martin.

This is correct Martin.   Running much better.   Lighter for sure - looks a bit naked now.

Happy New Year to all.  

Kind regards Bruce

What with trying to celebrate Christmas while locked in, prepare for New year, shovel snow and start doing @)!(*#&(@@) income tax forms I have not been able to keep up with the forum. I have a shipment of parts which I bought from a member in US and my K is in the garage patiently waiting for me to attend to it. I appreciate this info on  ABS removal I have been contemplating removing my ABS as well. To date I have had no nasty codes but I find the brakes sadly lacking on my K75. I am not sure when the last time the hoses were changed if ever (1995 bike) and am not sure how to check to see if the hoses are OEM. My main concern was removal of the control unit I do not like messing with electronics.

Unfortunately it has been hovering around 0C and the snow is wet and sticky, if you have never had the pleasure of  clearing a fairly large drive (4 cars worth) using a snow blower in almost slush, I do not recommend the experience. The snow blower cannot handle the heavy slushy snow and clogs up the chute every 20 feet. I have to stick my hand down and scoop out the snow to continue. So the job takes about 4 times as long as it should. Keeps me from what I really want to do...Remove the final drive, transmission and lube the splines at the output shaft, check the clutch friction plate and replace if need be. 

I have had no indication that there is any problem with the clutch, but am concerned about the splines. I already did the final drive splines when I changed to a set of Roatech 01 tires this summer (I like them much better than the lazertech tires I removed). Can anyone suggest the proper interval for lubing the splines at the output shaft? Maybe you can save me fixing something that ain't broke?

At this stage the wiring to the control unit is still intact, just the module was removed. OEM hoses are rubber and can deteriorate. All the hoses were replaced with updated coated braided hose. There are heaps of suitable spline greases Honda M77 and other high moly content greases. I used to use Optimol white paste  but lately I've been using Molub Alloy Paste TA BMW part No 18 21 9 062 599. The bike has 170,000 K's and shaft splines are still OK but showing some wear. It is important to keep up the maintenance on your shaft I do mine every time I replace my rear tyre.
Regards Martin.

I use Optimol to lube the clutch splines. For the clutch, experience has shown that every 30,000 miles (i.e. about two years for me) is enough because the clutch splines only rotate. The bevel drive is a different kettle of fish because you have the forward-and-back movement caused by the suspension movement as well as rotation. Like Martin, I do the bevel drive every tyre change (about 8,000 miles). If you can't be a$$ed to remove the rear wheel and hydraulics to get at the splines, there's always the Charlie Trick:

1. Support the rear wheel so there's no weight on the shock absorber
2. Undo the four bolts
3. Pull the wheel back gently until the splines are just about to disengage
4. Grease and reassemble.

Suspension movement will get the tiny bit you didn't grease.

Hey Bruce and Martin
Thanks for the post. Do you think Sean would be able to make a set of pipes for me? I ride a 1995 K75rt and I want to strip the abs as well. Just anxious to get the right hoses. The hose on the front is close to 900mm and the one the back is 600mm. Does that sound familiar?
Do you think that Sean will have a record of the dimensions and fittings etc.? I’m locked down here in the Central Coast so would need to get them posted but I can sort that out with Sean if you think he would be able to do it?
Cheers
Ed

Ed, Sean custom made them to the bike on the spot. And he had to work out a couple of angles. However we also have a mobile brake and hydraulic guy and a local Pirtek shop who do lines. Have you tried ringing around to local brake shops and or hydraulic shops. The only other way would be for you to ring Sean organise it then we could take Bruce's bike around for him to copy which is a K75s. The only thing close to an K75 RT is Paul's K100 LT which may be the same.
Regards Martin.

Hi Martin
Thanks for making the time and making the effort to get back to me- I don’t want to get you running around the houses for me. But I will take your suggestion of checking out local hose makers and taking my bike into them. I’ll ask my mechanic who might be the best people to go to when the lock down is over.
Thanks again 
Ed

Looks like alot of fun. Just come down off Mount Tambourine. Glade my ABS is fine thanks