BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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Jamie64

Jamie64
Silver member
Silver member
Throttle Body Syncronisation 

I probably should of go something to do this with back in the 80's when i was doing it every day but always found my ear and a piece of plastic tube good enough for what ever i was working on at the time, be that a set of tripple webbers or SU's or even the old Strombergs.

My hearing is not as good as back then and things sound a bit off so i have been looking for something that will work with the minimum of effort.

This should arrive tomorrow and i hope it works ok, has anybody used this type of device.

https://raytechautomotive.com/products/synchroking-carb-throttle-body-balancer


Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) Syncro10

    

Arlina

Arlina
Moderator
Moderator
Looks good to me Smile


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Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) Eu-log10  K1100RS/LT - R1200RT - R1100RS (RIP) - Cagiva SST 350 Ala Verde - K75LT project - K75 Schurgers - K75S
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Nice device! 

I've been using a home brew low tech/price unit on my bricks.  It started out as a cobbled up collection of parts and worked so well I never replaced it.

Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) Thrott13


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

stanthomas

stanthomas
Silver member
Silver member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:I've been using a home brew low tech/price unit on my bricks.
Curious to know how that works. First off, don't you need 4 for a brick? And with the two sides linked, don't they equalise themselves?


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K100RS 16V '91
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
What you do is match all the throttle bodies to #4(or #3 on a K75).   I start by adjusting the air screw on that throttle body to 1 1/4 turns out from lightly bottomed.  That becomes my reference setting.

Then one bottle is connected to the reference and the other is connected to the one I want to check/adjust.   There is a tee in the line to the reference throttle body that allows me to set the air screws with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line connected.  If the vacuum in both throttle bodies is exactly the same, there is no flow between the bottles and the levels stay the same.  Adjusting the air screw of the throttle body being tested raises and lowers the vacuum in that throttle body.

I can set the vacuum so close between two throttle bodies that after over a minute of idling there is no change in the fluid level.   As each one is done, I replace the cap and connect the second bottle to the next one.  The whole job takes about 10 minutes. 

I think my rig cost me about $20, including the two bottles of ice tea.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
Nice looking unit it will be interesting testing them back to back with mine.
Regards Martin.


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K75s Hybrid
    

Jamie64

Jamie64
Silver member
Silver member
@MartinW wrote:Nice looking unit it will be interesting testing them back to back with mine.
Regards Martin.
 Sounds like a good topic for our next workshop day.

    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) 112350


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K75s Hybrid
    

Corkboy

Corkboy
Life time member
Life time member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:What you do is match all the throttle bodies to #4(or #3 on a K75).   I start by adjusting the air screw on that throttle body to 1 1/4 turns out from lightly bottomed.  That becomes my reference setting.

Then one bottle is connected to the reference and the other is connected to the one I want to check/adjust.   There is a tee in the line to the reference throttle body that allows me to set the air screws with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line connected.  If the vacuum in both throttle bodies is exactly the same, there is no flow between the bottles and the levels stay the same.  Adjusting the air screw of the throttle body being tested raises and lowers the vacuum in that throttle body.

I can set the vacuum so close between two throttle bodies that after over a minute of idling there is no change in the fluid level.   As each one is done, I replace the cap and connect the second bottle to the next one.  The whole job takes about 10 minutes. 

I think my rig cost me about $20, including the two bottles of ice tea.
Ingenious piece of home engineering.   Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) 212902

I love it when it gets to applying and understanding the basic physics of a job.


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Regards,

Corkboy '87 K100RS SE (The black one - one of the two bikes I'm sorry I sold)
             '87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
             '97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
             '08 K1200GT Wedge - but still a K
             '08 Transalp 700
    

stanthomas

stanthomas
Silver member
Silver member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:What you do is match all the throttle bodies to #4...
Very interesting.
So, if I understand correctly, when there's an imbalance there's a flow from one bottle to the other and you allow up to a minute for this to become apparent. Which is distinct from the manometer style gauge which gives an instantaneous reading but bounces all over the place.

I need to balance the Bings on my airhead so I think try copying your design. And I wonder whether this idea of matching the other cylinders on a multi to a reference cylinder will work on a Jap 4.


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K100RS 16V '91
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
@stanthomas wrote:
@Point-Seven-five wrote:What you do is match all the throttle bodies to #4...
Very interesting.
So, if I understand correctly, when there's an imbalance there's a flow from one bottle to the other and you allow up to a minute for this to become apparent. Which is distinct from the manometer style gauge which gives an instantaneous reading but bounces all over the place.

I need to balance the Bings on my airhead so I think try copying your design. And I wonder whether this idea of matching the other cylinders on a multi to a reference cylinder will work on a Jap 4.
Actually, the response is almost instantaneous, when the vacuum is the same the flow stops.  I just watch the levels for a minute or so while blipping the throttle a couple times to confirm that the vacuum stays even and nothing changes. 

The bottle balancer will work with carburetors as well.  As long as there is a port to allow tapping into the manifold vacuum down stream of the throttle.  There is no reason why you can't use it on an engine with three or more carburetors.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

lomcevok

lomcevok
active member
active member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:...I've been using a home brew low tech/price unit on my bricks.  It started out as a cobbled up collection of parts and worked so well I never replaced it.

Throttle Body Syncronisation (Raytech SyncoKing) Thrott13

I think I'll make one like it.  Nice example.  

Only I'll fill mine with something brown, to reward myself when I finish a synch. job...

Bill

p.s. where's the ice machine?

    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
As long as the bike doesn't get there thirst...














Okay. So I'll get my coat. Again.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

gabriel

avatar
Platinum member
Platinum member
Hi

I’m also thinking of buying the same model.
I don’t want to mess with bottles of liquids and cumbersome set ups, although I appreciate the effort that goes into constructing them.
I’d love to hear about your experiences with the Syncoking.


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;BMW; 1984 BMW k100..frame number 6228?
1992 BMW K75s
    

mike d

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I use of of these: Morgan Carbtune - carburetor synchronizer for balancing motorcycle carbs

You don't seem to have a dealer in Australia though.

Mike

    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
About 20 years ago i bought a Carb Tune 4 Pro plus a Gunson Exhaust Gas Analyser . I couldn't find one in OZ so I imported both from the UK. Both still working fine.
Regards Martin.


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K75s Hybrid
    

TacKler

TacKler
Life time member
Life time member
@Dai wrote:As long as the bike doesn't get there thirst...














Okay. So I'll get my coat. Again.

Looking for a face palm emoji  scratch 

Did you leave your hat in the taxi last time?


__________________________________________________
Red 1991 K75S
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
I had one of the original mercury-driven Carbtunes. One of my bikes (I think it was the Honda 500-4) took a dislike to it and spat the mercury out. Don't ask me how - forty years on I don't remember exactly what happened. I do remember that I was seeing tiny silver balls in the darkest corners of my workshop ever after, until I sold up and left.

Google Earth says my ex-workshop was finally flattened sometime in the last five years in favour of a pah-tee-oh. Wonder if the Mad Hatter attends the tea parties...


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

mike d

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
Still got one of the old mercury Morgan carbtunes sat at the back of my garage. Not even looked at it for years.

Mike

    

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