Actually I think we were just both on a different wavelength, not the first time I've done that. 

It might be easier to see from behind, it's not too hard to remove the bottom of the airbox.

If you want to remove the cable, you will see a slot in the quadrant to the barrel of the cable. If you line up the cable with the slot, then push the cable through the slot, then keep pushing, and the cable will be free from the quadrant.

daveyson wrote:Actually I think we were just both on a different wavelength, not the first time I've done that. 

It might be easier to see from behind, it's not too hard to remove the bottom of the airbox.

If you want to remove the cable, you will see a slot in the quadrant to the barrel of the cable. If you line up the cable with the slot, then push the cable through the slot, then keep pushing, and the cable will be free from the quadrant.

You only need to remove the TOP of the airbox to get to that.

Goodo, even better, been a while since I been there. Another thing I don't remember, with a twist of the throttle, wouldn't it then be easy to remove  throttle outer cable from the bracket to then see if it's seated properly?

Well, guys, I was wrong! The throttle cable was indeed seated completely into the quadrant bracket after. having dismantled the air box entirely to verify that fact.  After giving the backside of the throttle valves and associated springs a thorough cleaning and a good inspection of the pressure relief valve vacuum hose, and disconnecting the throttle cable at the idle adjustment end, I will put it all back together again and see how the motor idles.  If the idle persists being too high all I can come up with is that the throttle body valves are not in synch or something like that. With the throttle cable disconnected the valves now close with a mechanical authority against metal stops. I don't expect any problems starting the motor especially with the increased idle speed.

I was thinking that perhaps someone had replaced the throttle cable with an incorrect one, but now it seems unlikely. I'll know once I start the engine.

On SSD's K100 LT the idle was too high and we couldn't get it low enough using the cable adjustment. The solution was to adjust the air bleed screws to lower the idle roughly and once it was at a point where in order to stop it from stalling we had to adjust the cable to the correct idle. We then balanced the throttle bodies with vacuum gauges while adjusting the idle level. The idle screw now sits mid-range allowing the idle to be adjusted higher or lower. 
Regards Martin.

Do you have TB balancing gear at your disposal?

With the throttle cable disconnected does the idle adjust screw hit its stop plate?

I've got a set of 4 mercury manometers. However .75 has posted how to make a set using jars and hoses. There are also posts on the net on how to make a set.
Regards Martin.

Don't have a set of gauges, but I do have a Unisyn to balance SU carbs. In the old days we used to use a piece of fuel line like a stethoscope placed in the carb air intakes and listen to the sound comparing each carb to the others. None of that technology will work in this case. Getting 4 vacuum guages to work together sounds like a neat project. What kind of range of vacuum should I be looking for?

Duck, disconnecting the accel cable made no apparent difference. Giving everything a thorough cleaning around the valves and associated linkages has made a definite difference in the sound of the valves closing. I do not think it will make much of a difference once I start the bike up. I have yet to put everything back together but will leave  the throttle cable still disconnected. I can, however, screw down the idle screw til it touches the stop plate. My hunch is that each of the 4 throttle valves are closing fully or at least close. I suspect the air screws have been messed with prior to my owning the bike.

Bluebeemer wrote: Getting 4 vacuum guages to work together sounds like a neat project. What kind of range of vacuum should I be looking for?

Four gauges are unnecessary. Two would do it. You aren't looking for a range, you're trying to balance the vacuum levels using one throttle body's vacuum level as the reference.

Here's a functional homemade setup. Create using a beverage of choice.

Laitch, Love it. physics at work. So there's not a huge amount of suck going on? All I really need: two bottles, rubber stoppers, some tubing and clear fuel line. The box container is a nice touch. Tks.

Thanks for posting that, Laitch.  I've been using that rig for 6 or 7 years now.  I can set the vacuum so accurately that I can leave it connected to an idling engine for 2-3 minutes and the levels never change. 

Don't be concerned by the frame, it was the end product of a boring winter evening and some wood scraps in my shop. the two bottles and the plumbing are the important parts.

Actually, there is a lot of suck going on.  The first version used plastic bottles which promptly collapsed when I started the engine, allowing the fluid in the bottles to be sucked into the engine(the reason I use the ATF, alcohol or water is not good to have in the engine).

I found that Snapple Tea bottles to be a good choice.  It is easy to find stoppers with two holes for them, and the glass is strong enough to hold up to the vacuum.  I have seen a couple versions of this rig that use beer bottles, but the opening is pretty small and makes it harder to find the stoppers.