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1Back to top Go down   Fuel pump ring terminal replacement Empty Fuel pump ring terminal replacement Tue Jan 07, 2025 6:15 pm

DavidBo41

DavidBo41
active member
active member
I'm trying to resurrect a 1987 K75S and need to replace the in-tank wires to the fuel pump. I already have the new wires from EME, but I'm struggling with finding the proper ring terminals. I have plenty of the hardware store insulated terminals but those are not appropriate for this installation. The factory terminals are the Deutsch-style that crimp on both the conductor and insulation, but when searching the usual sources for the same thing all the reviews complain of how thin and cheap they are. I'm not putting something like that in a fuel tank. The only other option I've found is from the industrial sites which only sell in large quantities.

My other idea is to use a standard heavy-duty uninsulated ring terminal along with some heat shrink tubing for extra support, but the PTFE tubing recommended for this requires special equipment to shrink properly without damaging the wire. I've heard different stories about Viton and marine grade heat shrink as far as fuel compatibility, so I'm unsure to say the least.

Long story short, has anyone tackled this issue in the past with success? I'm probably overthinking it (nothing new) but I don't like to take any shortcuts when it comes to the inside of a fuel tank. Thanks as always.

Fuel pump ring terminal replacement 20250110

    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
Ebay. You can buy them in fives and tens for pennies. If you already have the correct size insulated terminals, cut the insulation off. I hate those things because they are nearly impossible to crimp correctly without a ratchet-driven factory tool. You don't need any additional support on the terminals because once the pump is back in place, there's no stress on them. Best way to crimp the terminals depends on the manufacture:

 - if they only have a single crimp loop or one pair of crimp ears, trim the wire insulation back so that you can fold it back on itself to make a larger crimp surface
 - if the terminal has two sets of crimp ears, do as above for the inner ears but the outer ears should bite through the insulation. That provides additional support.

I've replaced the terminals on at least four fuel pumps without any problems using single loop/ear crimp terminals.


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1983 K100 naked upgraded to K100LT spec after spending time as an RS and an RT
1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
I've used plain old crimping ring terminals from an auto parts store. The electrons don't care as long as they have a continuity path to follow. No need to insulate.


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Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
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