KTRacer wrote:Hey everyone. I'm wiring one of these acewell speedometers on my 1985 k100. After reading though this post and the others raf. and inge. were chatting in i have most of the speedometer hooked up. I just have a few more questions if anyone feels like answering.

First question: I Photoshopped in red were I think the wires go to on the updated chart below, is this right?



Second question: if pin 6 Green/black goes to the relays, as in fig. above. What connects to the red wire on the acewell? Fig. below




Third Question : If I connect violet/black pin 10 to the hazard light on the acewell, will this work as a temp indicator if im over heating? Fig. above

Last Question:im not using pin: 8,9,12,14,18,21,22,23,24. What do I do with the wires? Just cap them off?

Here is the pin chart I used: below


PS. I really suck at wiring. Most bikes I wire only have 12 wires or so. So this k bike is just crazy!

Also does this look right to you guys?

sorry the pic links keep braking. will have to repost

KTRacer wrote:Hey everyone. I'm wiring one of these acewell speedometers on my 1985 k100. After reading though this post and the others raf. and inge. were chatting in i have most of the speedometer hooked up. I just have a few more questions if anyone feels like answering.

First question: I Photoshopped in red were I think the wires go to on the updated chart below, is this right?

Yes, it is correct, as far as I can tell.

KTRacer wrote:Second question: if pin 6 Green/black goes to the relays, as in fig. above. What connects to the red wire on the acewell? Fig. below

RED on the acewell appears to be switched power.  This can come from pin 6 as well.

KTRacer wrote:Third Question : If I connect violet/black pin 10 to the hazard light on the acewell, will this work as a temp indicator if im over heating? Fig. above

No, you'll not get the indicator to light up that way.  The over temperature relay switches ground on violet/black when the temperature goes above the set point.  The Acewell wants to see +12V switched onto the hazard light.   Pin 10 to Grey would be a better choice.  If grey is already being used, then you can wire in both lines using diodes, as I did on my aftermarket speedometer:

KTRacer wrote:Last Question:im not using pin: 8,9,12,14,18,21,22,23,24. What do I do with the wires? Just cap them off?

You aren't using 9?  How do you expect the alternator to work on the bike?

Leave them open circuit and just cap them off to make sure they don't short to something, especially #24 because it is constant power.

Hummm, were Is Pin 9 Supposed to go? I see it on the cluster pinout going to the original gauge but I don't see were it goes on rafael's chart for the acewell.

Ok, I see in the wiring diagram in the book shows it goes to a indicator bulb in the gauge and then to the green/black. Can I just splice into the green/black?

There is no 9-pin on the Acewell; it is a connector on the Motogadgets Classic speedometer that I am using on my bike.  I included the picture to show how I am merging two sensor outputs on one indicator.  The diodes I hand-drew onto the diagram shows the method to merge the oil pressure switch and the water temperature switch together, allowing each to light the indicator independently.  If you are already using the indicator on the Acewell for another purpose, you may have to employ this solution.

The three yellow/other color wires go to the gear position switch on the transmission.

robmack wrote:There is no 9-pin on the Acewell; it is a connector on the Motogadgets Classic speedometer that I am using on my bike.  I included the picture to show how I am merging two sensor outputs on one indicator.  The diodes I hand-drew onto the diagram shows the method to merge the oil pressure switch and the water temperature switch together, allowing each to light the indicator independently.  If you are already using the indicator on the Acewell for another purpose, you may have to employ this solution.

Yeah, there is no 9 pin on the acewell. But you said before if Im not using the 9 pin how is the alternator getting power. That's what I meant by splicing the 9pin (blue) into the green/black wire . like this?
 " />

And cool on the temp/ oil light w/ the diode, it looks like a good solution!

duck wrote:The three yellow/other color wires go to the gear position switch on the transmission.

Yeah were I cut on the wiring harness they go right to the switch. So all I have to do is make the relay board and plug them in.

duck wrote:The three yellow/other color wires go to the gear position switch on the transmission.

Hey Duck, do you have a extra harness in case I fry this one?....

To what harness are you referring?  Main wiring harness? I might have one. I'd have to look.

duck wrote:To what harness are you referring?  Main wiring harness? I might have one. I'd have to look.

cool, hopfully I wont need it. I just talked to some brain children over here at MS. I think I have it all figured out!

KTRacer wrote:But you said before if Im not using the 9 pin how is the alternator getting power. That's what I meant by splicing the 9pin (blue) into the green/black wire . like this?

Duh, I should read closer next time.

Pin 9 on the instrument cluster goes to the charge indicator bulb.  One side of the bulb goes to switched 12V and the other via the Blue wire to the rectifier circuit on the alternator.  I know the alternator needs this connection to work and think it needs the load offered by the bulb to work properly.  I don't believe hooking switched 12V to the alternator will work; it needs the resistance of the bulb to cause a reactive force that starts the rotating magnetic field in the alternator.

The following comes from a document written to explain Moto Guzzi electrics.  Since Bosch is involved, I believe the text can also apply to K-bikes.

charging-around-the-circuit-john-noble.pdf wrote:When the ignition is switched on the charge light illuminates as it has a path to the
frame via the regulator and the coil in the rotor. The bulb and/or resistor allow a small
current to be fed to the rotor coil to magnetize it (both the bulb and resistor limit the
flow of current to a low value). When the engine is turning the whole system becomes
self sustaining, as previously explained. The rectifier feeds DC electricity to the
regulator and in turn the electromagnet on the rotor. The voltage at D+ balances the
voltage being fed from the battery and the bulb has the same voltage on either side of
it. As the voltage is equal on both sides of the bulb no current can flow and the light
goes out.

robmack wrote:

KTRacer wrote:But you said before if Im not using the 9 pin how is the alternator getting power. That's what I meant by splicing the 9pin (blue) into the green/black wire . like this?

Duh, I should read closer next time.

Pin 9 on the instrument cluster goes to the charge indicator bulb.  One side of the bulb goes to switched 12V and the other via the Blue wire to the rectifier circuit on the alternator.  I know the alternator needs this connection to work and think it needs the load offered by the bulb to work properly.  I don't believe hooking switched 12V to the alternator will work; it needs the resistance of the bulb to cause a reactive force that starts the rotating magnetic field in the alternator.

The following comes from a document written to explain Moto Guzzi electrics.  Since Bosch is involved, I believe the text can also apply to K-bikes.

charging-around-the-circuit-john-noble.pdf wrote:When the ignition is switched on the charge light illuminates as it has a path to the
frame via the regulator and the coil in the rotor. The bulb and/or resistor allow a small
current to be fed to the rotor coil to magnetize it (both the bulb and resistor limit the
flow of current to a low value). When the engine is turning the whole system becomes
self sustaining, as previously explained. The rectifier feeds DC electricity to the
regulator and in turn the electromagnet on the rotor. The voltage at D+ balances the
voltage being fed from the battery and the bulb has the same voltage on either side of
it. As the voltage is equal on both sides of the bulb no current can flow and the light
goes out.

THanks Robmack! I will just have to run an external bulb. Not a big deal. Do you know if they are 12v 3watt or 12v 1.2watt?

Fantastic, simple, great pics

Hello Rafa, 
Shopping for '85 K100RS, found one for $2,100 and it has 26,000 miles... What would be a reasonable offer to the seller of this bike? I plan on making a cafe racer but not for resale, just for me to keep. Is this a reasonable asking price? Bike looks "fair", and runs fine. Your project has inspired me! Gracias!

Rafael hasn't been here for probably 12 months now but if  you want to build a cafe racer then maybe try to get a K that has been damaged or had the fairing already removed I reckon you would save a bit.

...found a pretty decent bike, and plan to eBay all the "plastic" and saddlebags, all in good condition. I wanted to start off with a decent donor unit... I'll try and follow on Rafael's footsteps--no easy task! Thanks for your reply. Kind regards,   --Luis

well friends, here is the epic ending to this wonderful story.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/mcy/4557017315.html

Gonna be interesting for the next owner, when it occurs a hickup in the special wiring.

Nice build Raf. Been very helpful for me especially with the ACEWELL speedo.

Quick query: Green/black (6) in the wiring is supposed to be 12v correct? Obviously red/white is. Any ideas why it would only be showing .05 volts?

Rafael - amazing job on your K and fantastic work documenting the process, super helpful as i've been on a similar path. 

Question for you - where did you end up with the speed sensor situation [apologies if I Missed]? Did you order an additional part from Acewell or did you build your own bracket for the included sensor? 

Any direction/advice appreciated. 

Best, F.

Rafael has not made a post since Oct 2012 and I don't recall seeing him here since about then.

fearghal wrote:Rafael - amazing job on your K and fantastic work documenting the process, super helpful as i've been on a similar path. 

Question for you - where did you end up with the speed sensor situation [apologies if I Missed]? Did you order an additional part from Acewell or did you build your own bracket for the included sensor? 

Any direction/advice appreciated. 

Best, F.

Hey, you will need to get the magnetic speed sensor with the Acewell. I have just posted a simple speedo bracket that you can make with basic hand tools and a small section of sheet aluminium, have a look in my build thread.

rapt wrote:

fearghal wrote:Rafael - amazing job on your K and fantastic work documenting the process, super helpful as i've been on a similar path. 

Question for you - where did you end up with the speed sensor situation [apologies if I Missed]? Did you order an additional part from Acewell or did you build your own bracket for the included sensor? 

Any direction/advice appreciated. 

Best, F.

Hey, you will need to get the magnetic speed sensor with the Acewell. I have just posted a simple speedo bracket that you can make with basic hand tools and a small section of sheet aluminium, have a look in my build thread.

Fantastic - thanks so much!!!

KTRacer wrote:

robmack wrote:

KTRacer wrote:But you said before if Im not using the 9 pin how is the alternator getting power. That's what I meant by splicing the 9pin (blue) into the green/black wire . like this?

Duh, I should read closer next time.

Pin 9 on the instrument cluster goes to the charge indicator bulb.  One side of the bulb goes to switched 12V and the other via the Blue wire to the rectifier circuit on the alternator.  I know the alternator needs this connection to work and think it needs the load offered by the bulb to work properly.  I don't believe hooking switched 12V to the alternator will work; it needs the resistance of the bulb to cause a reactive force that starts the rotating magnetic field in the alternator.

The following comes from a document written to explain Moto Guzzi electrics.  Since Bosch is involved, I believe the text can also apply to K-bikes.

charging-around-the-circuit-john-noble.pdf wrote:When the ignition is switched on the charge light illuminates as it has a path to the
frame via the regulator and the coil in the rotor. The bulb and/or resistor allow a small
current to be fed to the rotor coil to magnetize it (both the bulb and resistor limit the
flow of current to a low value). When the engine is turning the whole system becomes
self sustaining, as previously explained. The rectifier feeds DC electricity to the
regulator and in turn the electromagnet on the rotor. The voltage at D+ balances the
voltage being fed from the battery and the bulb has the same voltage on either side of
it. As the voltage is equal on both sides of the bulb no current can flow and the light
goes out.

THanks Robmack! I will just have to run an external bulb. Not a big deal. Do you know if they are 12v 3watt or 12v 1.2watt

Hi All... I know this subject has been done many times..but just wanted to get some clarification regarding this point.. 

Robmack can you please let me know which type of external bulb I'd need to use to ensure the alternator works?

Thanks!!

Jono

Any twelve volt tungsten-filament bulb will do. BMW K-series use a four-watt bulb (just for info: Guzzi and BMW airheads use a two-watt bulb), so three watt or four watt will do. Use whatever style of bulb you have to hand.

KTRacer wrote:

robmack wrote:There is no 9-pin on the Acewell; it is a connector on the Motogadgets Classic speedometer that I am using on my bike.  I included the picture to show how I am merging two sensor outputs on one indicator.  The diodes I hand-drew onto the diagram shows the method to merge the oil pressure switch and the water temperature switch together, allowing each to light the indicator independently.  If you are already using the indicator on the Acewell for another purpose, you may have to employ this solution.

Yeah, there is no 9 pin on the acewell. But you said before if Im not using the 9 pin how is the alternator getting power. That's what I meant by splicing the 9pin (blue) into the green/black wire . like this?
 " />

I had my Neutral light working with my taco (not this acewell one) until I let a friend try it a better way. I think he has blown something. My question is:
The 3 gear position wires, are they meant to be sending out a (+) signal when in right position? So in neutral, are they all meant to send out a (+) signal?

Mine are earthed all the time.. anyone know what I can check after fuses if they are meant to be (+)

i read your thread and it got me off my ass to start working on my 85 K100 rt.  i have to say, i was never a big fan of the big fairing so i stopped riding my machine. i have my bike stripped and awaiting parts.  thanks for pointing me in a few directions.....

great thread by the way.

the gear position switch has 4 wires
1 is the ground reference  the other 3 follow the logic of the switch and become grounded as the different positions are achieved  so for neutral they are usually all grounded ...if the common wire is at ground potential

this is a common technique used by most manufacturers as it is a safe way to do switching ...if it was a high voltage (ie 12 volts) and a fault developed a fuse might blow causing something else to stop working  ie the motor ?  but by ground switching all you might get is a incorrect display ....makes sense no ?



note if they are not grounded ie the switch isn't in the right position for the wire to show ground ...they are going to be "held " high volts ...that is a small amount of current + 12 volts might be measured  at that cable til they become grounded ....the limit all happens before they get to the switch wires ...for protection of the circuits    like going through a relay before the gearchange switch ...so the most or worst they can do is activate the relay  hope that helps

your thread got me off my ass and this is what i've done to my K100 RT....  i love driving the stripped down hi viz machine version a million times better......

thanks again,
hi viz

Hi guys ! 

I am wiring a Acewell 85mm speedometer (ACE-4X54W-XX family) on my 1985 K100 RS bike. After reading though this topic I have most of the speedometer hooked up.

However I do have some electrical basic issues with the neutral light, fuel sender gauge and using the PIN 9 going to the alternator from my original cluster.

N1. Neutral light 
I used the chart posted in post N°100 by KTRacer and bought 4 relays "OUAZ-SS-112L,900". My problem is that the relays have 5 pins (85, 86, 30, 87, 87a) and in the PCB schema the pin 87a is not used. Should I just ignore this pin ?

N2. Fuel sender
My speedometer comes with a fuel gauge with 7 bars to indicate how much fuel remains. I can chose between 6 resistors value (100r, 250r, 510r, -100, -250, -510). My bike fuel sender has 2 ohms value full and 130 ohms value empty. So if I am correct I should set the speedo resistor value to 100r. 
Regarding the wiring, I connect PIN 7 of my bike to Acewell Blue (for FUEL) but nothings happens. I did some resistance measurement between PIN 7 cable and the frame and nothing happens. Is it my fuel sender damaged may be ? See document attached for wiring.

N3. PIN 9
I have to run an external 12V bulb. Should just wired up and put it with the rest of relays in the electronic box ?

Thanks you in advance ! 

Cheers.

Hello man from Switzerland.

There is a man from Switzerland that has build a box 
to connect all kind of speedos to a K bike.

Maybe you find some useful information here.

http://maru-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/BEP2_Anleitung.pdf





Cheers

Wow this is great ! I do not speak German (yes I live in the French side :-P ) but I am sure that it's gonna be useful ! Thanks Chocolate !

Oh, and just a detail : I am a girl

Cheers !

Great a girl :-) you get a big bonus being here in the forum!
Besides the man's name is Maru and I think he speaks French.

The box cost about 90€ but he will be greatfull to help you if you got any question, even if you don't buy, he is very friendly.
Jut contact him, he is full of knowledge related to the speedo.

http://maru-labs.com/en/

Cheers

haha thanks again chocolate ! I am already using the pdf he made, so useful and well done ! Google translate is helping me to handle the German...

Danke !

Very nice Cafe build I have 88 K100 that I am going to make into a  Cafe racer 
getting ideas from this build can not wait to see the finished bike:o-o:

Hi all - just got a question about my k100 cafe build via a PM and made me want to check back in here and see what y'all have been up to. I don't recall everything from 2012, but I do miss having a cafe bike. A few friends are riding in the Distinguished Gentleman's ride (https://www.gentlemansride.com/) so I'm thinking of doing it all over again... (cue back to the future music).

Keep in touch,

Rafael.

good to hear your still around raf ...

hope we see another build from you ...we didn't hear what happened to the last one ...I guess it has moved on ?

cheers from down here

Hi guys I m new here, looking for some help I searched in the forum but nothing concerning the smallest battery possible to fit in a k75s. I am currently doing a scrambler with LEDs as turn signals back light and headlight what is the smallest possible battery lithium ion I need to install to be OK with if we consider that I will ride it twice a month.
Thanks all in advance for your help.

Slim961 wrote:Hi guys I m new here, looking for some help I searched in the forum but nothing concerning the smallest battery possible to fit in a k75s. I am currently doing a scrambler with LEDs as turn signals back light and headlight what is the smallest possible battery lithium ion I need to install to be OK with if we consider that I will ride it twice a month.
Thanks all in advance for your help.

Lithium will save weight but not necessarily size. I have a 600 gram lithium on my Ducati 848, but a small Yuasa 12 amp on the K100. It is not worth trying to save weight on a K as it will never be a light bike.
I would say that just the back wheel of the K100 weighs about twice as much as the Ducati one does and the Ducati has a fatter tyre.
LEDs make no difference to the battery as it is only there to start the engine and does nothing else.

Slim961 wrote:Hi guys I m new here, looking for some help I searched in the forum but nothing concerning the smallest battery possible to fit in a k75s.
Thanks all in advance for your help.

Is the one in the attached photo small enough even though it isn't a Li-ion? The photo is from this project thread at MOTOBRICK.COM. You probably should start your own project thread, Slim.

Consider introducing yourself in the Member's Introduction section and posting a photo of your bike.

Thx to you!
I will use your story as inspiration for my K100 project, and will try to document it this way too!

/QuijoteNO

None of the pictures are showing up. Any one have a wiring diagram?

goalie94 wrote:None of the pictures are showing up. Any one have a wiring diagram?

Pictures aren't showing up because they were not imported using this site's image server.
For a wiring diagram, click the Portal tab at the top of this page and look for its link. If you have more questions concerning your bike, start a separate topic with them instead of using this one.